Entry door stop - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-08-2016, 05:00 PM   #1
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Name: Sylvio
Trailer: 1975 Boler
Quebec
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Entry door stop

The curvy shape of the Boler makes it hard to find a good door stop system. Any hints? I would hate to dent my fiberglass door on the aluminum band of the camper, like it was before I gave it love and affection.

I like the metal pin that fit in the rubber hole on the trailer as it acts as a door stop AND a door holder. But it would have to be installed mid-door level and would therefore be somewhat dangerous.

Any idea? How do you prevent your door to be opened too much and "slammed" into the aluminum band?
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:29 PM   #2
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As to the rubber pin and socket, you can get some with a shorter pin, which may not be as great a hazard. This is the more convenient type, as the pin snaps in, and it releases easily with a quick pull of the door.

A more secure version is the hook and keeper type.

See here for a variety of types and sizes available at most RV centers and on line:

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Enc...or_Holder.aspx

On the Little Joe, we have both types; pin and socket for normal use, and hook and keeper for windy situations.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:02 PM   #3
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The "plunger and socket" version would almost have to be installed on the Boler belly band instead of on the fiberglass wall...
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:07 AM   #4
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Scamp sells a door holdback. The wire arm is curved to hold the door out from the belly band. It will work on a Boler as well.
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:35 AM   #5
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Jon, I think I can get that locally, but I would like something that prevents the door from hitting the belly band. It seems like the "holdback" will mostly hold the door back... I might have to go with two different systems.

The little holdback system is riveted in the door and in the camper wall?
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:02 AM   #6
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When the wire holdback is latched, the fiberglass door does not contact the belly band. The edge trim does, not a problem. Yes, it is riveted to door and body.

The location is important, and it depends on how far your door opens before contacting the belly band. That, in turn, depends on the vertical position of the door hinges: closer to the belly band gives more clearance. Member Ian G. figured out that putting the hinges at 1/3 and 2/3 of the door height allows the door to swing a full 180 degrees without hitting the belly band.

But I take it you're looking here for something as a back-up in case the door gets away from you and swings freely?

I have just trained myself and the family not to let go of the door until it is closed or latched open. So far only one mishap (mine!) that left a mark on the fiberglass, and it buffed out easily. I can live with that.

But I'll definitely be watching to see if folks here come up with an elegant solution!
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:02 AM   #7
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Jon, you understand perfectly my question. Training self is one thing, but guests might not be as careful, especially young guests...

So far, I've stuck a piece of leftover rubber seal on the belly band and it does a fairly good job. But it seemed to somewhat damage my fairly fresh paint at some point.

Some guy around here has screwed a piece of metal in the belly band. When he's on the road, he "closes" the piece of metal by aligning it with the belly band. When he's on location, he "opens up" his little piece of metal so that it fits in the door handle's hole. That way, if the door opens too much, it goes against the metal piece. Not a bad system.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:09 AM   #8
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As a temporary solution, a piece of foam pipe insulation slipped over the belly band might be gentler on the paint than rubber. Have to remove it for travel, though.

I hear you about young guests. My girls are finally getting to an age where they are getting it

The wire holdback is essential to me, though. Our camper spends a lot of time with the door latched open and screen door closed. I'm not sure how much of a wind gust it would take to disengage the cup-and-plunger type. A curved door stands out further from the trailer than a flat door on a box trailer, so it catches more wind. The wire latch holds securely in light to moderate winds. It does rattle when the door vibrates on a breezy day, which can get annoying.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
The wire holdback is essential to me, though. Our camper spends a lot of time with the door latched open and screen door closed. I'm not sure how much of a wind gust it would take to disengage the cup-and-plunger type. A curved door stands out further from the trailer than a flat door on a box trailer, so it catches more wind. The wire latch holds securely in light to moderate winds. It does rattle when the door vibrates on a breezy day, which can get annoying.
Jon, I had the cup/plunger catch on a sticky, not a good ending. You and I both live in a desert and understand how the wind comes and goes like flipping a light switch. A 50 mph gust hit, slammed the door back and forth and pulled the frame apart by 2" at the top. No one else in the group had a door problem as they all had a metal T holder, it's the only way to go.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:41 PM   #10
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Alright Dave, you got me convinced! I'll make those 8 holes in my fiberglass!
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:06 PM   #11
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Alright Dave, you got me convinced! I'll make those 8 holes in my fiberglass!
Good move, it won't help with someone loosing it from their hand but will keep it in the open position.
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:32 PM   #12
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Good move, it won't help with someone loosing it from their hand but will keep it in the open position.
This works really well for hanging onto the door: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:41 AM   #13
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or you could just make your own....

two fixed bungys/hooks...look around...use what's already there
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