Fan-Tastic Vent help, please - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-02-2016, 07:20 PM   #15
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle View Post
Goodness, CALL THE MANUFACTURER!

...
Well...I wont argue with that. Sometimes the simplest approach is best.

I just got a little turned off by them when I heard about a mod kit they offered to slow the fan speed down (It was a simple additional resisters). Someone had recently got one of the kits from them for free so I tried a month or two later. The woman there told me that "I think they used to offer something like that" and then she told me she had nothing like that available and had no other suggestions. I think that when they got bought out, things changed.

And I do not expect a manufacturer to help me figure out how to take a voltage reading, or other things like that.

But by all means, give them a try. Especially if you can find the problem. I am in fact 100% sure they will replace any defective parts, so if you can figure out what you need I am sure they will give it to you.
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:16 PM   #16
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Name: Richard
Trailer: 2009 Scamp 13'
Alberta
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So I've had a chance to look at the Fan-Tastic fan problem a bit more. My fan works more like what Gordon has shown -- that is, I had to remove 5 screws (into plastic) and then could pull down a plastic ring (with the screen attached) to be able to access wires. The ring won't pull down all the way because of the turning mechanism used to maually raise/lower the dome. But there's still plenty of access to the wiring. I'm not entirely certain which wires I should be testing for 12 volt current (or if I'm even testing correctly). When I set my multimeter for 20 volts DC and put the probes on the battery terminals, I read just under 12 -- probably 11.8 or 11.9. I THINK that if I am getting current to the fan unit, I should get a similar reading at the wires coming to the unit, as what I get at the battery terminals. Correct? But I don't see that I'm getting anything -- the multimeter doesn't change. I might be measuring on the wrong side of a faulty in/out switch, a faulty off/1/2/3 switch or something else foolish. Or I might be measuring exactly where I should be measuring and I'm simply not getting current coming to the entire fan apparatus. There's a black and a white wire that come into the unit through a hole in the part that remains attached to the Scamp (along with the fan blades and the motor). Are those the main live leads? The white goes to the in/out switch, the black goes to the fuse.
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:40 PM   #17
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1. Should be a single recessed screw in the knob that raises the lid, right in the center of the knob. Remove it and the knob comes off, then the fan lowers as far as the attached wiring allows.

2. Sounds like you have the right places to check for power, and if there is no power there but all the fuses are good (at the converter /PDC), then its probably a break in the wiring. Since the wiring is under the rat fur, thats a bit of a problem.

3. Your voltage is a little low but yes, you should read about the same voltage at the incoming wires. Try it on shore power also.

4. White is negative, so connect meter's negative lead to the white wire where is comes to the fan, and try to read voltage on the fan's fuse where the black (positive) wire comes into it.. Go ahead and try both connections on the fuse holder (with neg test lead still on the white wire).
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Old 10-04-2016, 05:02 PM   #18
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Name: Richard
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Alberta
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Okay, making progress here!!! Thanks, Gordon and everyone for your help. I've now removed the knob as in Gordon's step #1 and access to wiring is vastly improved. A reading between the white wire where it comes into the fan area to the black/positive wire at the fuse gives me 11.7, which is about what I was getting directly from the battery terminal posts. So I'm getting current to the fan area! Sure beats having to find a problem hidden behind rat fur!!! So next is how to determine why the fan's not working. I'm getting different readings (or lack thereof) depending on how I set the switch that controls whether the fan draws in, or acts as an exhaust fan, or is left at the middle setting (which I don't know what it does? just OFF????). If I take my reading from the white wire (as described above) to the black wire on the fuse, I ONLY get the 11.7 reading when the in/out switch is set at the middle position. If I switch the switch to OUT, I get 0000. If I switch it to IN, I get .01. Only when the switch is in the middle position do I get the 11.7. So I'm thinking maybe the In/Out switch is the faulty link? But I'm also suspicious that the plunger switch at the dome is perhaps the offending switch, esp. since Fan-Tastic says it is the problem 99 44/100 % of the time there are problems with their fans. I had originally checked the continuity of the plunger switch and THAT aspect appears to work fine, breaking or carrying the current. But maybe the problem that people commonly experience with the plunger switch is somehow different. Gordon, can you or someone else tell me how to correctly use the multimeter to determine if the plunger switch is working as it should? Once I understand that, I can talk to Fan-Tastic about solving the problem, either by installing a new in/out switch or a new plunger switch. Of course, I'm only hoping the problem is not with the fan itself. I made my living as a teacher (obviously not in electrical engineering....) and now I am your eager student! Thank you thank you thank you.
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Old 10-04-2016, 05:37 PM   #19
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this is so hard to do sight unseen. But first, lets try something easy (I hope).

I recall that the wire connection to the bottom of the dome switch simply pulls out. I do not recall how the connection was made to the other side of the switch (and I would prefer to not disassemble my fan to check).

But if you can just somehow unplug / disconnect the wires at the dome switch and then temporarily connect the two wires together, that will take the switch out of the circuit. The fan should then run with the dome open or closed. If the fan does run as normal after that, then you know the switch or the connections on the dome switch is bad. Of course don't leave the fan running with the dome closed except as a test.
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:14 PM   #20
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Gordon, That's one of those perfect "Now why didn't I think of that?" answers!!! It makes perfect sense, and I'll do it as soon as I can. Given how quickly the Fan-Tastic folks seem to blame any fan problems on a faulty plunger switch, that switch is very likely the culprit. Maybe it just tends to fail in a way I wasn't imagining. I'll post my results, and thanks again to you and to all who replied.
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Old 10-06-2016, 02:27 PM   #21
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It appears to have been the plunger switch all along. I tried but had no success by-passing the switch and getting the fan operating, but I did connect the lead and ground wires to the fan motor directly to the battery, and the motor is clearly not the problem. Fan-Tastic was great, and they have a new plunger switch in the post already. If the new plunger switch doesn't solve the problem, I suppose I'll have to try to sort out the intake/exhaust switch, but I'm relieved to know the problem isn't the motor. Now I can go back to enjoying retirement with my fiddle -- not a multimeter -- in hand!!! But I enjoyed trying to sort out the problem and really appreciate all the excellent guidance the forum folks provided. Thanks yet again.
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:59 PM   #22
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Just an aside: You don't need a multimeter to test whether you're getting 12V power to a line or terminal—just a test light with a sharp probe, available at any auto-parts store.

/Mr Lynn
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:14 PM   #23
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Charge your battery, your voltage is to low to run your fan.
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:49 PM   #24
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Just an aside: You don't need a multimeter to test whether you're getting 12V power to a line or terminal—just a test light with a sharp probe, available at any auto-parts store.

/Mr Lynn
Yes, that reminds me of the test light I used to set timing on my VW donkeys-years-ago! But the test light has long ago been replaced by a multimeter (for whatever reason I don't recall....) and now that's what I use. Nothing like acquiring more expensive stuff to do the job of simple tools from days gone by. Maybe I should have stuck with the tent -- I never had electrical problems with it.
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:53 PM   #25
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Charge your battery, your voltage is to low to run your fan.
Voltage is a bit low, I know, but it is enough to run the fan ONCE I'm sure I'm getting voltage to the fan. And the battery is currently out of the Scamp and getting charged up now that I've sorted out the problem. Hard to do with no battery installed, though.
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:18 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Richard Davis View Post
...Now I can go back to enjoying retirement with my fiddle -- not a multimeter -- in hand!!! But I enjoyed trying to sort out the problem and really appreciate all the excellent guidance the forum folks provided. Thanks yet again.
You seem to be under the mistaken impression that the advice you have been given is free and without conditions. But in fact, if we ever have the privilege of meeting in person, you are obligated to preform a short concert with the aforementioned fiddle. I'd love to hear it!
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