Fiber Stream middle-age spread - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-17-2009, 10:57 PM   #1
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Need some ideas. Our recently adopted 1979 Fiber Stream had a bad case of dry rot in the cabinetry on the starboard partition between galley and bunk. This allowed the weight of the A/C to lower the ceiling and bulge the walls. There is separation between walls and cabinets on both sides.

Is there any way to raise the roof? Before I rebuild and refit the cabinets and partitions I would like to get everything as true as possible. Most of the sag is on the starboard side but the port - refer - side paneling is also distorted.

I thought of a jack, using a bar across the frame of the A/C hole in the ceiling or the underside of the overhead cabinets. Once raised I'd frame the partition to keep the gained height. I do not want to overstress, crack or break the shell of the egg.

I'll post pictures of the renovation and ask many more questions in the near future. Also, will put an account of the acquisition and adventures in a different forum.



Tom
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:21 AM   #2
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Its funny but I was just talking with Fred about this recently.

I think this is a symptom of the general design of the Fiberstream and would occur with or without the AC added weight.
If you look between the outside walls and inside fixtures there is really no point of attachment at all between them.
If there were I think the rigid nature of the cabinets would hold the walls upright and not let this happen.

I have seen units where the inside and outside were joined with fasteners and they appear more straight to me. They also have more places where water can get in but at least they are in better alignment without as much natural "Settling"

I am worried too that any attempts to fix this may cause cracking or worse and will likely just leave it alone.

Welcome to the group too!
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:03 AM   #3
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Ed,

Thanks for the input. Its nice to know we are not alone.

Now that the A/C is off I'm hoping that the shell will have a 'memory'. Also, a friend suggested glassing some attach batons to the inside walls as anchors for the cabinets and partitions.

Will proceed gently and refit the skins to whatever shape the old egg gives me...

Tom
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Old 04-18-2009, 12:47 PM   #4
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My Fiber Stream also suffers from bulging wall surfaces even though I never had a roof A/C unit. I speculate that 30 years of dryrot within the partition framing in addition of rusted screw fasteners along with bouncing down the road on shock-less leaf springs have contributed to the present condition. I think that attaching the interior partitions were used to correct a less-than-ideal shell profile rather than the shell profile dictating the shape of the interior partitions. I fear that there is a lot more flexing happening than I am aware of...

My ideal would be a total frame-off restoration, where I disassemble all of the individual components completely. Have a new frame built, and rebuild the whole trailer. There is a gentleman in Canada who has been doing this with a 17' Boler who is framing his internal partitions and furniture in aluminum square tubing. I would copy that and use fiberglass panels instead of plywood for interior wall surfaces. I also dream of replicating the Escape's insulation & vinyl surface.

I have neither the time nor the money to attempt this.
Instead, I accept the trailer as it is, and go camping.
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Old 04-18-2009, 05:26 PM   #5
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Fred,

My wife read your post and replied yeah, go camping. A lot of wisdom and shared wishes. Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to buy a new tow?

The AC, when viewed from behind the trailer, was listing about 15 degrees down left. So, figure
I have to rebuild the galley, galley partition and bunk before we can go out again. Will use beefier materials and attach shell to interior where I can w/o piercing the shell.

We are not going to do a frame off but, in the next year we will be putting a lot more Fiber in the Stream. However, will keep time and function to do what is important

Thanks for the input,

Tom
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