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Old 11-14-2012, 02:11 PM   #1
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Fiberglassing over your head

Getting ready to work on the bottom of the bug from underneath. Are there any "tricks of the trade" to minimize the amount of resin that will drip on me below?

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Old 11-14-2012, 02:20 PM   #2
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You might consider using fiberglass gel instead of liquid resin. Its main advantage is the virtual elimination of drips/runs/sags.

Here are some directions describing its use: http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/..._Resin_Gel.pdf

Francesca
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #3
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Thanks Francesca, How well does it wet in cloth? I mean, is it like working with resin that is starting to kick, or does it have different properties?
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:47 PM   #4
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I've never worked with it, so I can't answer that question...
It's been awhile since my last repairs, but as I recall when I looked into it I decided that coverage area was smaller per quart than with the liquid type, so Miss Cheapskate here opted for the liquid.

Note: I was NOT working underneath anything at the time...if I had been I'd have probably bought the gel!

Here's a link to the one my-friend-the-boatbuilder recommends : http://www.tptools.com/p/1666,201_US...-Hardener.html

Francesca
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:54 PM   #5
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When fitting the keel to racing yachts where I used to work, long strips of cloth had to be fitted exactly overhead. The technique used was:

- wet out the surface onto which the cloth will be stuck (the substrate);

- place the cloth on a long piece of medium weight plastic (heavier than a food bag, but thinner than builder's damp-proof membrane material);

- wet out the cloth, downhand, on the plastic;

- lift the plastic strip and push it against the substrate - just hand pressure pushing on (the dry side of) the plastic will 'stick' it in place temporarily;

- progressively peel off the plastic as you either roller or stipple (with a dry-ish brush) the fabric in place - no extra resin should be required though you might want to have some to hand for any dry patches.

It sounds a bit like lifting yourself up by your bootstraps, but it works and isn't too messy - though the plastic once you take it off has a nasty tendency to stick to anything nearby.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:17 PM   #6
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Andrew,

What an excellent solution! Thanks.

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Old 11-15-2012, 05:37 AM   #7
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Wear a shower cap... seriously. Unless you look good in a buzz cut.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:34 AM   #8
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When I sealed the belly band on our Trillium the instructions said to apply resin then cloth then resin. A tricky business for sure. Messy and lots of runs to keep up with. Andrew's approach is by far better.

To add to Donna's thoughts... Many years ago I had to buy a face shield for Chemistry lab. Later it came in real handy for working under cars on mufflers and such. Raz

Amazon.com: 3M Professional Faceshield: Home Improvement
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:07 PM   #9
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i would imagine micro beads, a thickening material used with fiberglass might help.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:15 PM   #10
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i would imagine micro beads, a thickening material used with fiberglass might help.
Good idea. I was thinking flour or corn starch.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:39 PM   #11
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West Systems and other epoxy resin suppliers have micro balloons , as John indicated that are used to thicken the epoxy so it won't sag. Their are other additives my boat building friend gave me to make it stronger (kitty hair) and other things to make it thicker. Check w/ your supplier or look on their web site. I do like the plastic bag method but maybe w/ some thickened epoxy to help the run/ sag issue. You can become hyper sensitive to epoxy don't get any on you if you can help it.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:45 AM   #12
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Place your fiberglass mat on wax paper,resin it up and apply to the area your are repairing, once it dries,the wax paper will peel right off easily. This method works well to minimize dripping while working underneath something.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:36 PM   #13
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I use fiberglass gel with either cut up cloth or fiber pulled apart mixed in. It's the consistency of drywall paste and won't drip. If you lay it on wax paper you need to remove the paper before it sets up or it becomes permanent. Works real well, only thing is that it usually comes in a dark green color.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:08 PM   #14
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Wow, I wished I had asked this question before I fiberglassed the bottom of my trailer. I like the plastic method and have never heard of the gell.

When I did mine, I put on a full painters throw away suit, gloves and a stocking hat. I still got resine all over my arms and in my hair. This was probably the worse thing I have ever done in my life, between the smell and sticky mess. I ended up having my wife do a little triming of my hair to take out the gunk.

Smart thinking of asking before doing it.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:02 AM   #15
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alright,,,,so i'm not real purty,,,,doesn't mean you should fiberglass over my head,,,thats just mean,,,,,

happy happy happy thanks giving all!
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:51 PM   #16
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alright,,,,so i'm not real purty,,,,doesn't mean you should fiberglass over my head,,,thats just mean,,,,,

happy happy happy thanks giving all!
Should we stop at the ears so as to avoid going "over"?


Francesca

P.S.

And a Happy Thanksgiving to you, too!
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