First Scamp First Camper - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-12-2010, 09:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevea View Post
Back to the rear jacks. I drilled out the holes to fit the 1/2 inch bolts and put them in but the holes didn't line up so I had to redrill them. They are in now. The next problem I have is they sent me a "Jack Handle" but I have no idea how it is supposed to jack them up. I am hoping I am just missing something stupid. Attached is the jack and jack handle. Jack handle is the metal rod.

Can anyone tell me how to use this?
There's a graphic and some instructions at the top of page 9 that will be very helpful. I ordered a pair of these last week, myself:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/n_chassis.pdf

Regards,

Matt
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Old 08-13-2010, 07:16 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Matt in SV View Post
There's a graphic and some instructions at the top of page 9 that will be very helpful. I ordered a pair of these last week, myself:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/n_chassis.pdf

Regards,

Matt
Thanks Matt. Now that I see the graphic I had an "oh duh" moment.
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Old 08-13-2010, 01:05 PM   #17
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If you would also like to see a video here is one from Scamp.
" Choosing a camping spot "
There are other things in the same video.

Bill K

Scamp Trailers - Owners Manuals

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Thanks Matt. Now that I see the graphic I had an "oh duh" moment.
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Old 08-13-2010, 07:02 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by stevea View Post
Thank you for all the answers.

I ordered the front jack from Scamp hoping that it will be the same thing or close enough. If I have to cut the old one off so be it but hopefully not.

Back to the rear jacks. I drilled out the holes to fit the 1/2 inch bolts and put them in but the holes didn't line up so I had to redrill them. They are in now. The next problem I have is they sent me a "Jack Handle" but I have no idea how it is supposed to jack them up. I am hoping I am just missing something stupid. Attached is the jack and jack handle. Jack handle is the metal rod.

Can anyone tell me how to use this?
It sounds like you would have a great time if you came to
"Eggfest 2010" next month at Goose Island just outside Lacrosse Wi.
There will be dozens of Scamps with hundreds of years of cumulative experience, and lots of ideas you could use. Plus food, fun and great conversation.
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:39 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
It sounds like you would have a great time if you came to
"Eggfest 2010" next month at Goose Island just outside Lacrosse Wi.
There will be dozens of Scamps with hundreds of years of cumulative experience, and lots of ideas you could use. Plus food, fun and great conversation.
I was at Goose Island just 2 weeks ago! I think the Goose Island I visited was a little south of the one you're talking about though, this one was on the TX Gulf Coast!
TPWD: Goose Island State Park

John
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:20 PM   #20
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"Next question: What size are the rivets that hold the fresh water cover and the electric cover? Are those supposed to have snap caps also?"

No snap caps are used on either. I replaced both of mine a couple of years back but sorry I don't recall what the size of the rivets were that I used. Just make sure they are long enough to go through the cover and the trailer walls with a bit to spare inside and you should be fine.
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:02 AM   #21
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"Next question: What size are the rivets that hold the fresh water cover and the electric cover? Are those supposed to have snap caps also?"

No snap caps are used on either. I replaced both of mine a couple of years back but sorry I don't recall what the size of the rivets were that I used. Just make sure they are long enough to go through the cover and the trailer walls with a bit to spare inside and you should be fine.
I got both of them replaced this weekend. It all went pretty smooth. The only hick up I had was when the drill slipped off of one of the rivets and put a hole next to the old hole. I just fabricated a small washer for the rivet to grab into.

Like I said earlier I got the rear jacks installed... this weekend I finally went to fold them up and found that the pads are too wide to fit behind the bumper. So I am going to have to play with that and figure out a way to get them to fit.

I also got the battery hooked up. Can someone tell me how to wire the trailer lights to include charging the battery? I have the 7-pin connector on the truck with the 12 volt power but I wasn't sure what I have to put in line with it. The Scamp came with a 4-pin but it was junk so I was just going to replace it with another 4-pin but instead I would like the truck to charge the battery.
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
It sounds like you would have a great time if you came to
"Eggfest 2010" next month at Goose Island just outside Lacrosse Wi.
There will be dozens of Scamps with hundreds of years of cumulative experience, and lots of ideas you could use. Plus food, fun and great conversation.
Floyd, we are considering coming to La Crosse for Eggfest. My girlfriend just needs to look at her work schedule.


I called Scamp today to see if I could get a different Swing bar (lack of a better term) for the table and the guy only knew of the one size that they have. So I am going to have to move all the table hardware over to mount it. What is the best way to patch the ensolite where the holes from the old screws are?
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:32 PM   #23
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Cool 7-Pin Connecter Wiring

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Originally Posted by stevea View Post
I also got the battery hooked up. Can someone tell me how to wire the trailer lights to include charging the battery? I have the 7-pin connector on the truck with the 12 volt power but I wasn't sure what I have to put in line with it. The Scamp came with a 4-pin but it was junk so I was just going to replace it with another 4-pin but instead I would like the truck to charge the battery.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Trailer-brake- wiringPlug-6& 7-pin- connector.JPG
Views:	16
Size:	122.6 KB
ID:	30543
Does Pin-4 of your Truck's end of the connector Have a 12 gauge Black Wire (or possibly a 12 gauge Red Wire) running up to the engine compartment through isolation diodes or relays to the Battery's {+} terminal? Does a 10 gauge WHITE wire connect to Pin-1 of your Truck's end of the connector firmly to a good bare metal spot on the frame? If so, the Truck is good to go.

All you have to do is connect a 12 gauge Black Wire from Pin-4 of the Trailer's end of the connector through a 10 amp fuse to your Trailer's Battery {+} terminal.
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:58 PM   #24
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Attachment 30543
Does Pin-4 of your Truck's end of the connector Have a 12 gauge Black Wire (or possibly a 12 gauge Red Wire) running up to the engine compartment through isolation diodes or relays to the Battery's {+} terminal? Does a 10 gauge WHITE wire connect to Pin-1 of your Truck's end of the connector firmly to a good bare metal spot on the frame? If so, the Truck is good to go.

All you have to do is connect a 12 gauge Black Wire from Pin-4 of the Trailer's end of the connector through a 10 amp fuse to your Trailer's Battery {+} terminal.
Ok, my truck has a 7-Pin connector, it does have a 12v connection but I haven't traced it to see if it is running through diodes or relays. It is a 2005 Chevrolet and the trailer wiring is factory installed. The 12v connector isn't switched power, it is on constant. I just don't want to kill my truck battery or blow anything up.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:20 PM   #25
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Thumbs up The 12v connector isn't switched power, it is on constant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevea View Post
It is a 2005 Chevrolet and the trailer wiring is factory installed. The 12v connector isn't switched power, it is on constant. I just don't want to kill my truck battery or blow anything up.
They are on constant; by connecting to the Truck's Battery you are actually connecting to the Truck's Alternator/Generator. That's what is charging BOTH Truck & Trailer Batteries together. The purpose of the Diodes or Relays is so that you can leave the Trailer plugged in to the Truck when stopped without having something in the Trailer draining the Truck's Battery. The Diodes allow the Alternator to push voltage into the Trailer and prevent the Trailer from sucking voltage from the Truck's Battery. The Diodes do not switch voltage, they direct it. If it is a factory install, then the Diodes or relays should be in there.
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Old 09-25-2016, 10:58 AM   #26
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Trailer: Scamp
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Harbor Freight Jack a PERFECT FIT

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As for the jack, if it's the swing up type that swivels on the bracket welded to the frame; I got a similar jack from Harbor Freight,
Heavy Duty 2000 Lb. Capacity Top Wind Trailer Jack
separated it from the plate that welds to the frame, removed the old one from the trailer and swapped them over. I had to use the old circlip as the new one was too big. Bit of a struggle to get the old one off but easier than taking it to a welder!
CliveAlive, you are a man among men. That top wind trailer jack was a PERFECT FIT for our 2004 13' Scamp
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