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Old 08-16-2010, 10:02 AM   #21
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 1981 13' Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
"Next question: What size are the rivets that hold the fresh water cover and the electric cover? Are those supposed to have snap caps also?"

No snap caps are used on either. I replaced both of mine a couple of years back but sorry I don't recall what the size of the rivets were that I used. Just make sure they are long enough to go through the cover and the trailer walls with a bit to spare inside and you should be fine.
I got both of them replaced this weekend. It all went pretty smooth. The only hick up I had was when the drill slipped off of one of the rivets and put a hole next to the old hole. I just fabricated a small washer for the rivet to grab into.

Like I said earlier I got the rear jacks installed... this weekend I finally went to fold them up and found that the pads are too wide to fit behind the bumper. So I am going to have to play with that and figure out a way to get them to fit.

I also got the battery hooked up. Can someone tell me how to wire the trailer lights to include charging the battery? I have the 7-pin connector on the truck with the 12 volt power but I wasn't sure what I have to put in line with it. The Scamp came with a 4-pin but it was junk so I was just going to replace it with another 4-pin but instead I would like the truck to charge the battery.
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:58 PM   #22
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 1981 13' Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 15
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It sounds like you would have a great time if you came to
"Eggfest 2010" next month at Goose Island just outside Lacrosse Wi.
There will be dozens of Scamps with hundreds of years of cumulative experience, and lots of ideas you could use. Plus food, fun and great conversation.
Floyd, we are considering coming to La Crosse for Eggfest. My girlfriend just needs to look at her work schedule.


I called Scamp today to see if I could get a different Swing bar (lack of a better term) for the table and the guy only knew of the one size that they have. So I am going to have to move all the table hardware over to mount it. What is the best way to patch the ensolite where the holes from the old screws are?
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:32 PM   #23
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Cool 7-Pin Connecter Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevea View Post
I also got the battery hooked up. Can someone tell me how to wire the trailer lights to include charging the battery? I have the 7-pin connector on the truck with the 12 volt power but I wasn't sure what I have to put in line with it. The Scamp came with a 4-pin but it was junk so I was just going to replace it with another 4-pin but instead I would like the truck to charge the battery.
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Does Pin-4 of your Truck's end of the connector Have a 12 gauge Black Wire (or possibly a 12 gauge Red Wire) running up to the engine compartment through isolation diodes or relays to the Battery's {+} terminal? Does a 10 gauge WHITE wire connect to Pin-1 of your Truck's end of the connector firmly to a good bare metal spot on the frame? If so, the Truck is good to go.

All you have to do is connect a 12 gauge Black Wire from Pin-4 of the Trailer's end of the connector through a 10 amp fuse to your Trailer's Battery {+} terminal.
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:58 PM   #24
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 1981 13' Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
Attachment 30543
Does Pin-4 of your Truck's end of the connector Have a 12 gauge Black Wire (or possibly a 12 gauge Red Wire) running up to the engine compartment through isolation diodes or relays to the Battery's {+} terminal? Does a 10 gauge WHITE wire connect to Pin-1 of your Truck's end of the connector firmly to a good bare metal spot on the frame? If so, the Truck is good to go.

All you have to do is connect a 12 gauge Black Wire from Pin-4 of the Trailer's end of the connector through a 10 amp fuse to your Trailer's Battery {+} terminal.
Ok, my truck has a 7-Pin connector, it does have a 12v connection but I haven't traced it to see if it is running through diodes or relays. It is a 2005 Chevrolet and the trailer wiring is factory installed. The 12v connector isn't switched power, it is on constant. I just don't want to kill my truck battery or blow anything up.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:20 PM   #25
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Thumbs up The 12v connector isn't switched power, it is on constant.

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Originally Posted by stevea View Post
It is a 2005 Chevrolet and the trailer wiring is factory installed. The 12v connector isn't switched power, it is on constant. I just don't want to kill my truck battery or blow anything up.
They are on constant; by connecting to the Truck's Battery you are actually connecting to the Truck's Alternator/Generator. That's what is charging BOTH Truck & Trailer Batteries together. The purpose of the Diodes or Relays is so that you can leave the Trailer plugged in to the Truck when stopped without having something in the Trailer draining the Truck's Battery. The Diodes allow the Alternator to push voltage into the Trailer and prevent the Trailer from sucking voltage from the Truck's Battery. The Diodes do not switch voltage, they direct it. If it is a factory install, then the Diodes or relays should be in there.
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Old 09-25-2016, 10:58 AM   #26
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Name: Greg
Trailer: Scamp
Texas
Posts: 3
Harbor Freight Jack a PERFECT FIT

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Originally Posted by CliveAlive View Post

As for the jack, if it's the swing up type that swivels on the bracket welded to the frame; I got a similar jack from Harbor Freight,
Heavy Duty 2000 Lb. Capacity Top Wind Trailer Jack
separated it from the plate that welds to the frame, removed the old one from the trailer and swapped them over. I had to use the old circlip as the new one was too big. Bit of a struggle to get the old one off but easier than taking it to a welder!
CliveAlive, you are a man among men. That top wind trailer jack was a PERFECT FIT for our 2004 13' Scamp
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