Thanks guys for the help, I think I'm just going to dive in a hope for the best....just not sure on the thickness of the plywood
Hey Kent ! I'm a member and have been away from the site since about Sept. Here's hoping that I'm not to late to help out....I have the info that you need. I had a BigFoot
that was in terrible shape and needed help with a sagging roof. Someone wrote to me at another site and offered to help me out...
This the what he did.....
This is how I solved my sagging roof problem, others may have better ideas; but if I were to do it again I don't think I'd change much.
The roof is supported by 3 ribs from the inside these are placed at the ceiling seams.. The ribs are fastened to the wall at each end. To gain access and to make the job easier I loosened the upper cupboards and removedthe doors and the partitions inside the cupboards. You need the extra room to manipulate the ribs and reinforcement board into place.
List of Materials:
3- 2x4 studs
6- 12"x12" plywood pads or equivalent. These will prevent damage to the roof when you prop it up.
2- 2x6x8 ft fir. Have these ripped in half by your Home Centre. You need these for the supporting ribs and two support posts. Fir is recommended for its strength.
1- 1x6 board used as reinforcement board. I used a length of 5/8 x 8' plywood I had laying around.
1/2 or 3/4 cove moulding as required "hides your mistakes".
Stain to match your decor
Assorted Robertson head screws; I used Deck screws, you can buy these in small quantities, in various lengths and they are of superior quality. REMEMBER not too long. (You be the Judge)
1- tube of good quality Construction adhesive i.e. PL Premium.
1- tube of brown silicone sealant (covers mistakes very well).
6- sturdy corner brackets. They will carry the load!
Basic tools, a cordless drill would come in handy
Measure the width of your trailer and cut the ribs about 2" short. Arch the rib by measuring 24" back from the end and remove a 5/8" bevel.
Prop the ceiling from the inside, using a ladder check the roof line making sure the roof has a nice natural curve to allow run-off. Support the rib along the seam and mark. Using a sharp Olfa knife cut through the ceiling panel and foam insulation. Careful Doctor the fiberglass is paper thin. Remove the aluminum moulding and panel above the door, the rib can be easily anchored to the exposed framing on the door side.
Install the reinforcement board inside the cupboards above the stove and fridge
. To get it in is a challenge, for strength it has to go in in one piece. I think plywood is more flexible and easier to get into place. Glue board to existing panel near ceiling, cut a hole in bottom of cupboards at the corner of the stove and bathroom wall for one of the support posts. For the support posts use the fourth piece of fir, cut it to length, and dimension, make a shoulder cut at the top end to support the reinforcement board. Do the same at the end of the counter, glue everything in place with PL Premium. The post at the stove end is not noticeable if stained to match, the one at the end of the counter makes a good towel ring anchor and blends in well. Now you have something to tie the ribs to on the "Fridge" side. If you have an awning
there is already a means of anchoring the ribs on the door side.
I installed the center rib first, I found it to be the easiest, then I did the forward rib and stuggled with the rear rib. I eventually had to cut it t get it into place, with the upper bunk space to manoeuvre is tight. The cut is hidden inside the cupboard and is not in plain view.
To protect the roof from wearing through I used a 2 inch tow strap glued to top of the rib. I purchased a 20 ft tow strap from Princess Auto, and cut it into 6 foot lengths.
The last thing to do is to button everything up. The cove moulding is used to support the ceiling panels, I had access to a brad nailer which made the job easier. You can suspend the cupboards from the ribs and you'll note how much higher they are. Imperfections are covered using the brown caulking and cove moulding. By staining and painting
everything to match makes it dificult to tell that a major reno was done. Sand the ribs to prevent sharp edges from wearing through.
I may have missed a few things and if you get stuck let me know. I'd like you to keep me informed on how your project is progressing.
I hope this helps you out and maybe offers some suggestions for other folks out there.
Kindest regards, Mitch