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08-25-2010, 06:48 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Cyndi
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 5th Wheel/2019 Toyota Tundra
Iowa
Posts: 1,105
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Foam Gasket on the Scamp doors
Is there a better gasket other then the foam one that keeps coming off?
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08-25-2010, 08:23 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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I bought the stuff from my Scamp at Lowes. Self-sticking. It's been there for five years and hasn't fallen off yet. I stuck it on the trailer, not the door:
Shop Frost King 1-1/4" x 30' Grey Camper Mounting Tape at Lowes.com
The width and thickness your trailer needs may be different than the link shows. Lowes had a half-dozen different sizes to choose from.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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08-27-2010, 05:13 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 18
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I was wondering the same thing. My Scamp was built thgis past March and I am already noticing that foam pealing away.
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08-27-2010, 09:01 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I bought the stuff from my Scamp at Lowes. Self-sticking. It's been there for five years and hasn't fallen off yet.
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Donna, what did you use to clean up the figerglass before you put the new ones on? I replaced mine 2 years ago for the most part they have stayed on but one side not so great. Wondering if it might be a wax issue.
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08-27-2010, 03:16 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Pipe wrap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyndi B.
Is there a better gasket other then the foam one that keeps coming off?
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Several years ago I had an older 13' Scamp that needed a new door seal.
I used 1/2" insulating foam pipe wraps. There like swim noodles only smaller and have a split down the length so it can fit over a 1/2 pipe.
They come in 6 foot lengths and are very inexpensive.
Just slip the foam tubes over the edge of the door opening and your done.
You will have to trim it at the door lock.
You should be able to get them in any hardware store.
I'm tall so the foam at the top of the door was great for my head.
John
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08-27-2010, 03:28 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Bigfoot Silver Cloud -1988
Posts: 1,543
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Great idea, Perry! Did you glue them in place or just let them "grab" on their own?
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08-27-2010, 08:52 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A
Great idea, Perry! Did you glue them in place or just let them "grab" on their own?
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The foam I bought had glue in one side of the slit. I used a little contact cement on the other side.
John
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08-28-2010, 08:14 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Donna, what did you use to clean up the figerglass before you put the new ones on? I replaced mine 2 years ago for the most part they have stayed on but one side not so great. Wondering if it might be a wax issue.
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I used Acetone in a well ventilated area. Mainly because it was sticky from previous attempts to seal the door area. I wanted it right down to the gel coat. So I'd suggest using anything that removes all residue and wax. Tide laundry detergent does a really good job of removing wax. YMMV
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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08-31-2010, 09:06 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Thanks Donna, suspect I did not clean it well enough in a couple of spots thus the reason it failed to hold. Have never tried Tide - will give it a try. Thanks.
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08-31-2010, 05:25 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Carol, IF its not to late yet, you can also try a light scuffing with a scarch guard pad or something mildly abrasive like that. We used regular door gasket material (bought @ Rona) and some weather stripping for the door frame on the trailer.
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09-04-2010, 08:41 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
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Another way, if you really want it to stick is --
Go to an auto parts store and buy a tube of trim cement. It is sort of like an industrial grade contact cement.
Tape around the area where you want the self-stick insulation to stick and apply a thin coating of trim cement. When it skins over, stick on the self-stick insulation. I can practically guarantee it will never come off!
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10-30-2010, 03:10 PM
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#12
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Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2005 Scamp 13'
Oregon
Posts: 70
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I like the idea of the pipe insulation since I don't believe that it absorbs water. Here in Oregon it'd be a bad idea to put open-cell foam around the door since it'd just be a sponge. {this is an edit: the camper tape is closed-cell too.}
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10-30-2010, 07:00 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Cyndi
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 5th Wheel/2019 Toyota Tundra
Iowa
Posts: 1,105
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Yes, every time I look at the door the foam is bulging out somewhere. It's on the frame as was our 13' er's. I think a rubber gasket would be better.
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10-30-2010, 10:27 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Carol,
If you're having adhesion problems on the gelcoat, one cause might be that you have not really got the mold release wax off. Counterintuitively, it can remain even 40 years later, so it's not far fetched that some remains on your trailer.
The way to get it off is to use a solvent wash. I use Interlux 202. What you do is have a series of towels or rags (paper will work if you don't have "real" rags), and you fold them carefully. You want to take one clean rag surface, and soak it with solvent and then wipe a certain area; then, before it dries, you wipe it off with an absolutely clean section of a dry rag. The solvent kind of "lifts" the wax, then you are wiping it away with the clean rag. Don't repeat with the same rag surfaces at all, but use fresh ones for each part of each step.
As to gasket selection, there is one Trim-Lok product that looks interesting to me. Trim-lok (or similar other brand) is the typical black or white plastic edging that is on the main door (it has metal inside).
Well, they make one that is like that, but also has a rubber (maybe it's EPDM) bulb coming off it. One style has it coming off the end, but the other one (what interests me here) has it coming off one side. So, the Trim-lok would grip to the door edges and the bulb would seal against the trailer. In theory anyway, as I have not tried it. Something to consider perhaps.
Raya
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