Found a good radiant space heater - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-16-2012, 10:08 PM   #15
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I'm with you. We keep a fan on all night, every night. Not some whimpy 6 inch fan but a full-on box fan even in the dead of winter. Camping we have to compromise and bring a smaller one but we found one that's nice and noisy for us! I started that habit in college when all of the thumping and bumping and voices in the dorms would keep me awake Bring on the white noise!

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Originally Posted by melissab View Post
Wow, we're the opposite. Cant sleep in dead silence. We have a window unit in our bedroom for white noise and when we stay with family we need a box fan. The A/C running (in fan mode) kept the noise constant. In the T@b when we dont need A/C and want to sleep with the windows open we run the fantastic fan on high for noise. It also helps drowned out noisy neighbors.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:13 PM   #16
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I prefer the heat put out from a small cube ceramic, and the small amount of white noise from the fan doesn't bother me at all. In fact, they say that white noise promotes better sleep.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noreen Bradshaw View Post
My camper still has the original Propane furnace in it and while the pilot light will come on it does not ignite the burner. I haven't taken it to the RV shop where I have my work done, bc I don't know that I would use it much anyway, if it is noisy, being so close to the bed.
Noreen, If you have the orignal heater that the trailer was manufactured with, it is a Duo Therm 65000 gravity furnace. Except for the slight ping of tin as it warms up, it is practically silent. At 8400 BTU, it should be hot enough for -15 deg C.

A gravity furnace depends on convection, which is a physical process, not dependent on the use of a fan, but a fan helps. They do sometimes have issues though:

How to physically remove a heater ...

another good thread:

Duo Therm Furnace Settings

If it requires a new gas valve, they seem to be in the $250 range online. Installing requires a bit of tube bending, not much. If you know someone who does furnaces, they could do it. The gas valve is the brains of the unit, as long as there is no danger of rust holes, and the burner is in good shape, there is nothing else that is likely to go wrong with them.

Is it worth it to repair them? Depends on you. I am not sure why, but there do not seem to any gravity furnaces sold for trailers anymore. If anyone knows of a replacement gravity furnace for a Trillium 4500, I want to hear about it. So if a practically silent furnace, which does not require any electrical power supply at all, just propane, sounds good, then a new gas valve makes sense.

On the other hand, forced air furnaces tend to be more efficient, and typically have more heat output. But they do rattle some.
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:45 AM   #18
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Cool Heater too small

The Canadian Tire Heater is only 550 watts?

Our Honeywell has three power settings, 500, 900 & 1500 watts.

We carry it in the back seat foot well of the TV on the theory that the car rides smoother and the heater is less likely to be damaged there.

The 1500 watt setting can get the interior of our Trill to 80º F. I use it to warm up fast, set it to 65º F and then lower the power level when it reaches 60º F, and then during the night, usually run the low or middle setting. The low is not enough during cold (30ºF) nights.

One caveat. These things need your attention when first starting. They can overshoot the set temperature. I think because of the heat retaining of the oil. The heater defaults to 1500 watts and 70º F (can be set to display Celsius) when it reaches the set temp, the oil has already had lots of energy imparted to it and will overshoot.

There are several brands offering this type heater. I don't think any of them offer an anticipatory thermostat.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Noreen, If you have the orignal heater that the trailer was manufactured with, it is a Duo Therm 65000 gravity furnace. Except for the slight ping of tin as it warms up, it is practically silent. At 8400 BTU, it should be hot enough for -15 deg C.

A gravity furnace depends on convection, which is a physical process, not dependent on the use of a fan, but a fan helps. They do sometimes have issues though:

How to physically remove a heater ...

another good thread:

Duo Therm Furnace Settings

If it requires a new gas valve, they seem to be in the $250 range online. Installing requires a bit of tube bending, not much. If you know someone who does furnaces, they could do it. The gas valve is the brains of the unit, as long as there is no danger of rust holes, and the burner is in good shape, there is nothing else that is likely to go wrong with them.

Is it worth it to repair them? Depends on you. I am not sure why, but there do not seem to any gravity furnaces sold for trailers anymore. If anyone knows of a replacement gravity furnace for a Trillium 4500, I want to hear about it. So if a practically silent furnace, which does not require any electrical power supply at all, just propane, sounds good, then a new gas valve makes sense.

On the other hand, forced air furnaces tend to be more efficient, and typically have more heat output. But they do rattle some.
David, the furnace is a Duo Therm but I didn't find the 65000 on it. How can I find out if that is what it is? If it is a gravity furnace I definately would think it's worth fixing.
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:53 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
Phil,
How much does the little heater weigh ?

george
I'm guessing the heater weighs about 5 pounds. It's pretty small.

Although it's rated as 550 Watts on the Cdn Tire site it is actually 700 W.

It really wouldn't work to keep a 13 foot trailer warm on a cold day. What it's perfect for (at least for us) is to quietly keep the chill out of the trailer at night. Our little cube heater (1,500 W) with the fan does a much better job of warming the trailer on a cold day.
The propane furnace does a great job of warming the trailer up real fast, but it sounds like a 747
Cheers,
Phil
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noreen Bradshaw View Post
David, the furnace is a Duo Therm but I didn't find the 65000 on it. How can I find out if that is what it is? If it is a gravity furnace I definately would think it's worth fixing.
The bottom third of the front comes off. Pull the handle and it exposes the gas valve and the pilot light hole. Just below the gas valve, on the bottom of the furnace, is the name plate. The model number and BTU value can be found there. You will need a flash light.

Looking at your registry photo, I can see by the exhaust vent, that you have the standard gravity furnace. The model numbers change, but all the classic Trillium trailers, if they have heat, they have a gravity furnace. No fan, no electricity, no noise. Just add propane and out comes heat. Most of the heat comes out of the left side. The gas valve is on the right side. On a Trillium 4500, this means that the hot stuff is not in danger of contacting your bedding. On a 1300, because the heater is on the kitchen side, the hot part is closest to the bed.

When you fix it, just don't try to remove the heater, like I did. Get someone to service it in the trailer. It should not cost much more then $450 to repair, probably less.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:04 AM   #22
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David, thanks for the information, re this furnace. I would love to get this furnace working. The fact that it would be so quiet is a big plus.....not bc I can't sleep with the sound of a fan running but bc I love the sound of the woods in the night. I think the night sounds is one to the nicest things about camping.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:41 PM   #23
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i have a 1500 watt version like that, it warms our bedroom right up. they take awhile to warm up because they have to heat all the oil, but then the oil keeps a nice steady heat going. its what i would use if i didn't have a furnace.
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:56 PM   #24
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Noreen Bradshaw View Post
I bought one of those last fall and used it for one outing at the PP nearby......just to try it. It did not adequately warm my 15' Trillium in cold but not freezing temps. I returned it to the store.

I have found the little ceramic heater to be the best without sacrificing space. Set at the other end of the room the sound of the fan running does not keep me awake.

My camper still has the original Propane furnace in it and while the pilot light will come on it does not ignite the burner. I haven't taken it to the RV shop where I have my work done, bc I don't know that I would use it much anyway, if it is noisy, being so close to the bed.
If you have the original furnace, which in our 1980 Trillium 4500 is a Duotherm 65512, they have no fan in them and are completely quiet. They are also vented to the outside so that they do not use any room air, and generate their own electricity to operate the thermostat (if you have one). Mine is 12000 BTU/hr input, 8400 output, so they can give a lot of heat. So, you already have an excellent heater, if you wanted to get it serviced.

Rick G.
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:24 PM   #25
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Phil, thanks for the comments on the little heater. That sounds like it might work well for me. I'm trying to keep weight in check for everything I buy for the trailer, because as we all know, after a few years these things tend to magically gain weight !

As I said, at night time, I just want something that can keep the temp from plummeting inside....sometimes I let it get down to lower 50's in there, and just turn the electric blanket on. Then in the AM.....yep, turn the ceramic heater to high, and kick the propane furnace on for about ten minutes and life is good.
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:50 PM   #26
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Smile Furnace, etc

A 1500 watt heater, which is about the limit for a 120 volt, 15 amp circuit, puts out about 5,000 BTU. Propane furnaces put out about 12,000 BTU. So you can see that you could probably cook a chicken in a 13' trailer with the propane furnace on high.

Thomas G (post #9) has the right information on natural vs forced convection. Convection heats the air around it and this air then heats the room. Of course with a fan convection, you do have the noise of the fan. I often wonder if a computer type fan, which is very quiet, couldn't be used instead of the cheap, noisy fans typical on small heaters. Radiant heaters are like radar dishes with a visibly hot element, heat from which radiates to solid objects which it warms, like your body. No heater is 100% one or the other, with convection heaters radiating some of their heat and radiant heaters convecting some of their heat. For more information about convection than you care to have, go to:

Convection - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

We have a small, forced (convection) air heater as a backup to our (natural convection) radiator. But the radiator is very quiet. It is not altogether silent, one can hear the relays clicking on and off as it operates, but otherwise, silence. Another feature we like is you don't have the hot/cold cycle with the forced convection types. The oil has mass which retains the heat, dispensing it gradually.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:31 AM   #27
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Hi, Brian here. Can anyone tell me if you can run those oil heaters all night while you're sleeping. Is there a safety issue. Do you need some sort of alarm or detector? I went out and bought a little coleman heater that uses the little green tanks. It wasn't until I got home that I found out you shouldn't run them while you sleep. Any thoughts?
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:15 PM   #28
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Hi, Brian here. Can anyone tell me if you can run those oil heaters all night while you're sleeping. Is there a safety issue. Do you need some sort of alarm or detector? I went out and bought a little coleman heater that uses the little green tanks. It wasn't until I got home that I found out you shouldn't run them while you sleep. Any thoughts?
If you meant the oil-filled radiators, those are electric so perfectly safe (unless something flammable were draped across them or something)... no flame.

Is your Coleman a catalytic heater? I have a Coleman Black Cat and have slept with it on, but having a couple of windows cracked open is a must. The burner doesn't put out much CO but it does consume oxygen. Both CO and smoke detectors are advisable whether you use such a heater or not!
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