Freeze Prep - Compressor Division - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-03-2012, 09:21 AM   #1
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Freeze Prep - Compressor Division

We're going to have our first Hard Freeze this coming Friday night. I suppose that means I should think about winterizing the Scamp. I did that to a trailer home we used as a cabin 30 years ago...but never to a little Scamp.

Question: how big a compressor do I need to blow out the water lines?
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:11 AM   #2
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Small compressor

I travel south in Feb. and have to winterize on the road before returning home. Several years ago I bought a $20 12vdc air compressor from Home Depot. It was all I needed for blowing out the lines. I run the power cord through the window let the pump build up to 40 lb turn off the compressor then open the valves one at a time until no more water comes out and repeat for each outlet. After blowing out the lines I then add antifreeze through a Y valve on the input of the pump.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:02 PM   #3
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Do not forget to drain the water heater.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:57 PM   #4
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The size is not that important it is limiting the pressure to 40-50psi that is important, you want to replace any water in your lines with air but not too high pressure or you will have leaks next year.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:48 PM   #5
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The itty bit that really makes this possible (for one person working alone) is Camco 36143 RV Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect : Amazon.com : Automotive. If your hose thread blow-out fitting doesn't have a quick disconnect barb like your usual air tool, someone will have to stand next to the city water inlet applying a tire inflator as if blowing up a tire. Get this one, not the useless plastic imitations, and also it's female counterpart if you rhose doesn' take that particular style barb. You can go to max tank pressure; the pressure regulator for your hose should be 40psi or less. I believe you're blowing water out of the system rather than pressurizing it so the FIRST STEP for me is opening a faucet, valve, or shower wand BEFORE attaching air hose. Could be the plumbing will handle a higher static pressure; I'm not looking to find out.

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Old 10-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #6
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Interesting... looking at the Scamp manual (on line) it doesn't really talk about blowing stuff out. What it DOES do is talk about gravity-draining the water, closing up drain valves, pouring in anti-freeze (into the back fill hole??), and using the on-board pressurizer to pump goop thru the system until all the faucets run pink. Does that sound like enough? DO I have to use a pressure hose to blow stuff out?
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:52 AM   #7
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I guess it depends on how strong the gravity is where you are located
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I guess it depends on how strong the gravity is where you are located
Considering all the rocks and minerals I've gathered over the years, we ARE a local gravity anomaly.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:39 AM   #9
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Fusedlight: That is what I do because I know without a doubt it is done right.
You can blow it out however should you use the wrong kind of compressor you could introduce OIL and/or Germs into your system. Just do whatever you are comfortable with.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:04 PM   #10
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I would certainly open faucets and drain to the low point of all tanks (petcock on the fresh, gates on the black and grey) BEFORE or IN LIEU of compressed air. Why would I do otherwise? I also deploy [RV] antifreeze strategically and sparingly. My method might not survive the scrutiny of the broadly informed critical faculty but it's what I'm comfortable with.

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Old 10-04-2012, 01:11 PM   #11
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I guess it depends on how strong the gravity is where you are located
Should be somewhere in the area of 9.8 meters/second squared.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:23 PM   #12
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Rate of acceleration for a body in earth gravity; there's a law I obey every day.

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