Fridge for Boler re-do - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-31-2015, 01:29 AM   #1
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Name: Gerard
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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Fridge for Boler re-do

Hey all, I wanted to collect your experiences on fridge replacements for a Boler reno.

I have gutter my 17' to the shell and am in the process of refurbing the guts before building a new shiny interior. One area I am struggling with is the fridge. The Boler had a working 3way fridge in it which I still have but as you know it is old, and quite hideous by today's standards (yellow interior, brown exterior, etc.)

I would like to put a new fridge in the RV on the rebuild, one that doesn't need an external vent and preferably one that doesn't run on propane. Any ideas?

I don't expect to have AC connections that often so I am concerned that running a fridge off the inverter / battery wont work well for long.

Appreciate your ideas / advice. I suppose i could refurb the original 3 way if I had to but its not really my preference.

Thanks!
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:56 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvanginkel View Post
Hey all, I wanted to collect your experiences on fridge replacements for a Boler reno.

I have gutter my 17' to the shell and am in the process of refurbing the guts before building a new shiny interior. One area I am struggling with is the fridge. The Boler had a working 3way fridge in it which I still have but as you know it is old, and quite hideous by today's standards (yellow interior, brown exterior, etc.)

I would like to put a new fridge in the RV on the rebuild, one that doesn't need an external vent and preferably one that doesn't run on propane. Any ideas?

I don't expect to have AC connections that often so I am concerned that running a fridge off the inverter / battery wont work well for long.

Appreciate your ideas / advice. I suppose i could refurb the original 3 way if I had to but its not really my preference.

Thanks!
Not sure why you don't want to use LP as you say you won't have shore power very often. LP refers are used in most all RV's. You also already have the vent holes in the shell. There are many posts here that deal with folks that are using 12V refers with solar set ups too.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:53 AM   #3
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Name: Edward
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Battery powered refers are possible. Nest caravan trailers out of Bend Oregon uses that setup. However there are three concerns first the setup is expensive (several thousand), second it takes at least 200 amp hours of batteries, third it takes 200 - 400 watts of solar to keep the batteries charged. It makes a nice, reliable, quiet setup but it costs.
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:12 PM   #4
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Name: kevin
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Colorado
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!2 V Fridge all the way

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Originally Posted by AshlandEd View Post
Battery powered refers are possible. Nest caravan trailers out of Bend Oregon uses that setup. However there are three concerns first the setup is expensive (several thousand), second it takes at least 200 amp hours of batteries, third it takes 200 - 400 watts of solar to keep the batteries charged. It makes a nice, reliable, quiet setup but it costs.
I agree you may need to up the battery size and add some solar, but not nearly as much as you think. My Engel 60 averages 18w x 24hr @ around 75 degrees ambient.

Living in Colorado I only have 30 W of solar and an 80 AHr battery and I can camp for a week at a time. My friends use theirs with no solar for weekends with no issue. Ideally I would up the solar capability to 100W. 200-400 W is WAY over board, especially once you have upgraded to LED lights.
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:27 PM   #5
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Agree. I was specing for a 4 cu. ft Novakool or equivalent in the Pacific NW. A worse case scenario.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:46 AM   #6
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Name: Gerard
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What fridge is running off battery alone?

Guys - thanks for the reply.

Can you post me the model or a link to the fridge that you run off battery alone? Im open to adding solar to avoid a 3 way as I dont want the hassle / vents to the exterior.

Im thinking 2x deep cycle gel batteries and LED will be installed.

Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:56 AM   #7
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Before you decide you want to go with 12V to power your fridge, I suggest you price a couple deep cycle gel batteries and keep in mind that you will have to replace them every few years.
I just replaced one Trojan 27 TMX at a very good price ( for Canada ) of $240. Got the same about four years ago for about $300 at Lordco.
I could have got the AGM Trojan for $260, but it weighs considerably more ( another thing to consider X2 ).
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:12 AM   #8
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I had great success with 100 watt solar panel, a group 27 lead acid battery mounted on the tongue, and a NovaKool refrigerator in our 13' Scamp. I never ran out of power while camping for months at a time.
Dave & Paula
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:26 AM   #9
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Another consideration. Gerard is in Alberta and Dave is in Arizona. Solar rays are harder to come by in Canada.
More stuff to think about.
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:45 AM   #10
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Another consideration. Gerard is in Alberta and Dave is in Arizona. Solar rays are harder to come by in Canada.
More stuff to think about.
True, but we were camping in Michigan, Oregon, Washington, Northern Idaho, and Colorado where we not only got a fair amount of rain but accumulation of snow and hail in August.
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:39 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by gvanginkel View Post
Guys - thanks for the reply.
Can you post me the model or a link to the fridge that you run off battery alone? Im open to adding solar to avoid a 3 way as I dont want the hassle / vents to the exterior.
Im thinking 2x deep cycle gel batteries and LED will be installed.
Thanks.
Still don't understand why you are so against outside vents as you already have them from the original refer. I do believe that most folks that are running a 12V only fridge still have vents in the shell to remove the heat along with a fan. Maybe through the floor but you still have to exhaust the heat. From what I've read in many posts the cost of a "truck type fridge" is pretty much equal or more than that of a new small LP refer. Not to mention the cost of a solar set up big enough to run it. Where are you thinking of putting the extra weight and volume of two batteries? As many folks here have told owners of new to them trailers, use it for a camping season before you start any major renos to find out just what you really want/need to change. You're one step ahead as you're refer does work . I've been boondocking for over 30 years and have never run out of LP and only last year added a portable solar unit to top off the battery for the lights and such. OK, those are my questions for now, your turn.
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:55 AM   #12
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Name: Gerard
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The reason I dont want the vents is due to water penetration and since I am moving the kitchen to the front of the boler I dont want penetrations where the road spray will be most severe (front).

I am leaning to an Engle SB70F Engel SB70 Built-in Refrigerator

I think this will work for all my needs and may work well with 1 deep cycle gel battery.

Any advice?

Thanks.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:01 AM   #13
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Measure twice, cut once.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:43 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by gvanginkel View Post
The reason I dont want the vents is due to water penetration and since I am moving the kitchen to the front of the boler I dont want penetrations where the road spray will be most severe (front).
I am leaning to an Engle SB70F Engel SB70 Built-in Refrigerator
I think this will work for all my needs and may work well with 1 deep cycle gel battery.
Any advice?
Thanks.
That's makes more sence for the vents, you didn't mention the kitchen move. You're still most likely going to need venting but you could run it through the floor. Maybe others that have modded a front kitchen will pop in to tell us how they dealt with vent issues/spray and how it's worked out.
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