Fridge in Casita - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:43 PM   #1
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Name: Nancy
Trailer: Casita
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Fridge in Casita

Help please! How do we reset fridge to turn on with dc power? Please
Thank you


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Old 03-01-2015, 06:59 PM   #2
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You might help out by telling us what make and model refrigerator you have and if it has been working on LP and/or 120VAC



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Old 03-01-2015, 08:24 PM   #3
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Oh, I'm sorry, that would help. I will go in tomorrow and check that. Thank you.


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Old 03-01-2015, 08:37 PM   #4
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Our '96 Casita has a Dometic Americana fridge that only works on propane or AC 110 power. Knob on left of control panel to switch from one to other.
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:32 PM   #5
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ID:	80905 ok this is what the fridge says. It's a 2010, RM2454. We did power it up and it went to dc, but not getting cold at all. What can we do? Thank you


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Old 03-02-2015, 09:06 PM   #6
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We have a 2013 Casita . If I remember correctly the refrigerator will only run on DC if you are not plugged in to 120 VAC. When the refrigerator senses 120 VAC is present it automatically disconnects from the DC. Trying to cool the refrigerator down from room tempersture does not seem to work well on DC . Once the refrigerator is cold , DC can be used to maintain the temp . We sometime use DC when traveling from a campgrounds to a new location .The above is our experience with the Casita refrigerator
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:25 PM   #7
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Here's a link to Casita Travel Trailer Forum and Gene's great pdf's of the model of refrigerator in each Casita and a pdf of the manual. If you are not a member it's worth joining.

http://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/...parts-manuals/

Good luck,
Kathie
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:06 PM   #8
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Here's a free link to a manual.
http://www2.dometic.com/f90ce2b0-0aa...83f3ebf5.fodoc


1. The procedure for switching modes is a little complicated, see the instructions if you don't already have a manual.
2. Has it ever worked on DC? It will take several hours from room temp to start to show cold in the freezer, maybe as long as overnight
3. Does it work OK on 120VAC and LP?
4. There is a terminal block on the back for DC input. Does it have 12 VDC across those terminals?


Update us when you check out the above.



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Old 03-02-2015, 10:54 PM   #9
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Name: kootenai girl
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British Columbia
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Nancy, can I ask why you are running it on dc?
It seems most people don't use DC and I thought I read that depending on the tow vehicle wiring it will not always keep the fridge cold enough or will draw too much on the battery. Maybe someone with more knowledge will jump in.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:28 AM   #10
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Trailer MUST be level also.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:52 AM   #11
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Name: Nancy
Trailer: Casita
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Thank you all for the in put. As you can tell we are new to Casita. I read it all and I will be ordering manual. I will also read up on forum. Have a lot to learn. Thank you


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Old 03-03-2015, 09:05 AM   #12
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Ordering the manual???
All you have to do is click on the link in Post #8 and print it out.



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Old 03-03-2015, 06:36 PM   #13
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Thank you. Followed the steps and still did not turn on with 120 v. The right side on the outside was hot. What does that mean? Click image for larger version

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ID:	80935 in that long tube. Tia


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Old 03-03-2015, 08:54 PM   #14
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You won't hear it "Turn On", operation is silent and it will take at least 4+ hours before you start to feel any cold in the freezer section. That it's getting hot tells you that the boiler heater is working. Be patient. If the boiler stays hot for 24 hours and the refrigerator does get cool you have a cooling circuit problem, kinda serious.


BTW: Has it ever worked for you on LP or elect?



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