Fridge - is this right? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-09-2013, 09:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
I've also mentioned a number of times that one can buy new, heavy gauge copper wire at a metal recycler at a fraction of retail prices. The wire is off the end of very long spools, so a 20 foot length to an electrician is scrap.
I've seen you say that before, Tom, and I think it's great you continue to mention it for those of us who are "newer" to the forums (and by newer, I've been reading here and occasionally posting for about 2 1/2 years). It's great advice to help save money.

Being an electrician, I am lucky enough to have access to this type of wire as scraps as well. Heck, I could put in some 250MCM copper if I really wanted to, but 290 amps is a bit more headroom than I need


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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
We rarely run our fridge while driving though do have the ability to charge our battery from the tow vehicle plus we have a solar panel. Our normal driving day is 4 hours. For four hours the fridge can usually maintain temperature well enough unless it is extremely hot.

...
Everything you said is very true, Ron. Short drives aren't going to be too bad without power to the fridge. We had a 120V bar fridge in our last Boler and we'd turn it coooooold the night before we set out so it was 1/2 frozen in the morning for the drive. That or a bag of ice has been our usual method until now.

--

I'm a tad disappointed at the prospect that running the fridge on 12V during a drive may not work out as straight forward as I had thought. This is why the idea of a separate heavy gauge 12V wire to the tug battery is back in mind again.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:41 AM   #16
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Really David? I lived in a cabin many years back that had an old servel propane fridge, much larger then an rv fridge and I got about a month off of a 20lb tank.

deryk
Truth is, I was just guessing, since I have never camped more then two weeks at a time with my trailer.
A month it is.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:47 AM   #17
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critical is having the trailer level so that damage does not occur to the cooling coils!
Does this include 12v while driving? If so, what's the point of using the 12v then?
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:53 AM   #18
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Does this include 12v while driving? If so, what's the point of using the 12v then?
No, in the manual that I read, they stress that the fridge be level when stationary, but the rocking and such of travel will not allow the fluids inside the fridge to pool where they should not.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:54 AM   #19
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Cool, thanks. I have a lot to learn on these things. I have the skills for a complete teardown, but know absolutely nothing about the operation side. I need to play with the fridge/stove/furnace.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:17 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by calindor View Post
..............

I'm a tad disappointed at the prospect that running the fridge on 12V during a drive may not work out as straight forward as I had thought. This is why the idea of a separate heavy gauge 12V wire to the tug battery is back in mind again.
I think you can run the fridge on 12 volts and charge the trailer while towing, but you have to have an adequate gauge wire to do so. You will know if you have a heavy enough wire by checking the charge rate of the trailer battery. If it is low or worse, negative, the wire is inadequate.

Here is an interesting thread that I found on another site that adds another wrinkle.

Alternator behavior on newer GM vehicles.
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