Fridge not cooling correctly

[Matthew A]

I just took my trailer (2002 Scamp 16ft) into a local shop to have the piezo ignitor replaces in my Dometic RM2410 refrigerator. The piezo works fine now, but the fridge is now having trouble cooling. The last week it was between 85 and 95 degrees and the fridge, in the shade is only at 40 degrees on max cooling, before it would be down around 20 degrees on the same setting. It does not matter if I run the fridge on 120 or propane. The cooling fins (or flange) on the interior of the fridge only half seems to be working. The fins on the right have frost on them (fridge has been on for a week) but the fins on the left have nothing and don't seem to be doing anything.

I talked to the shop and they said I have a leak in the system and the coolant leaked out and they had nothing to do with that, which I find hard to believe. They are telling me I have to replace the whole fridge at a cost of $800 to $900.

Anyone ever run into something like this or have any advice?

Thanks
Matt

[Donna D.]

These type of refrigerators typically only cool to about 40 degrees BELOW ambient temperature. I don't see anything wrong with your refrigertor... it's doing just that. You can help it out by adding muffin fans to cool the back (under the vent door) and add a fan INSIDE the refrigerator.

If you didn't have any coolant left why would it be cooling at all? I think that "shop" is full of beans....

[fidgetboy]

Just to take it back to the basics. Is the trailer level when you are trying to run the fridge? As I know with mine if not level the fridge is just a cooler.

[Matthew A]

The trailer is level. Also before taking it into the shop it did a much better job of cooling. It will stay at 40 degrees below ambient temp when on but not in use, door opening and closing. We just took two trips and outside temp was 80 and fridge was 50 to 55 degrees. Has never performed that poorly. The trip just before we took it into the shop it worked great though.

[David Morgan]

Originally Posted by Matthew A

The trailer is level. Also before taking it into the shop it did a much better job of cooling. It will stay at 40 degrees below ambient temp when on but not in use, door opening and closing. We just took two trips and outside temp was 80 and fridge was 50 to 55 degrees. Has never performed that poorly. The trip just before we took it into the shop it worked great though.

What size is your fridge? Sounds like a blockage in the inner evaporator coils. If its a lighter weight model you can pull it out and turn it upside down for a few mins and shake it. then let it sit upright for an hour or so before turning it back on. Also a good shake on a bumpy road can work too. If you don't smell ammonia Its probably not leaking. But it sounds like a blockage which is not uncommon. Especially if you are getting ice on one end of the coil and not on the other.

[Matthew A]

It is the larger fridge.

[Raz]

Did the shop remove the fridge when they did the work? If so, check to see if there are any baffles in the air flow path at the back of the fridge that may be bent and blocking the air flow. Good air flow from the bottom vent to the top is a must. If you don't see anything amiss I second Davids suggestion. Raz

[mcbrew]

As Donna mentioned, a fan can help remove hot air. Different models perform differently. My OLD Dometic (original to my '84 Scamp) cools like a champ. In 85 degree weather, it will make ice cubes pretty quickly in the tiny freezer compartment. We usually use it in 120v mode.

Before removing the unit, you might want to check out the proper method for unblocking it. My old RV had a troublesome fridge. The proper method was to remove it and lay it on a specific side (not upside down) for a period of time, then reinstall.

That fridge never cooled... At all. Ever.

My brother and his wife were going to buy us a new fridge for the scamp for Christmas, but I told them not to, because this one cools so well. I'm afraid I'll replace it with a pretty new one and it won't cool as well. Plus, this old one has a freezer for making ice. Need that for cocktail hour!

[Matthew A]

Took it back to the RV shop today to ask them some questions. They are telling me it has a slow leak and they can tell because in the freezer box the screw (or bolt) heads that are visible have corrosion on them. They said the corrosion is a sign that the leak is occurring behing those bolts. I thought all of those bolts had corrosion mostly due to moisture when the fridge gets turned off.

The repair will cost $600, I just have this feeling I am being taken advantage of.

[mcbrew]

You can buy a brand new Dometic RM2410 for $650.

[David Morgan]

Originally Posted by Matthew A

Took it back to the RV shop today to ask them some questions. They are telling me it has a slow leak and they can tell because in the freezer box the screw (or bolt) heads that are visible have corrosion on them. They said the corrosion is a sign that the leak is occurring behing those bolts. I thought all of those bolts had corrosion mostly due to moisture when the fridge gets turned off.

The repair will cost $600, I just have this feeling I am being taken advantage of.

I'm taking exception to this one. If your coolant leaked out, you would not have frost on one spot and hot on another. The coolant is ammonia and slow leaks are common yes, on old units. But it does not add up. The three components to the system are water, hydrogen, and ammonia. None of which are particularly corrosive. My dads fridge smelled of ammonia for 2 years before it stopped working. And as it died slowly it it's cooling ability dwindled, but uniformly. I'm going with a corrosion blockage. If that is the case it may be a better bet for the sake of keeping you hair, the pull and replace with a new unit. What they want to sell you is a new cooling system. Usually is more expensive than a new fridge. And all you are saving is the shell.

I'm betting that its a lack of education than purely trying to take advantage of you. A lot of service guys have no clue how gas absorption refrigeration systems work. And they have all the wrong ideas when it comes to servicing and trouble shooting. I would seek another opinion. Or try that bumpy road.

Best regards.

[Donna D.]

If it's a blockage, you can either shake it up (drive on a REALLY rough road), or pull it out and turn it upside down, rightside up, upside down, etc. several times over several days. In lots of cases that alone has removed a blockage. YMMV

I'm cheap... I'd try to save it first.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

If it's a blockage, you can either shake it up (drive on a REALLY rough road), or pull it out and turn it upside down, rightside up, upside down, etc. several times over several days. In lots of cases that alone has removed a blockage. YMMV

I'm cheap... I'd try to save it first.

What Donna is referring to is "burping the fridge". You can read how it's done here.

[Matthew A]

Thanks for all the great advise.

[Brian Van Snell]

I've noticed that in hot weather the performance of the fridge is much better if the fridge is opened as little as possible and also if the side of the trailer with the fridge is in the shade. A small electric fan moving air through the coils also seems to help a bit. A small remote monitor helps to monitor how things are going. 27.5 C = 81.5 F, 5.9 C = 42.6 F
Brian

[Donna D.]

Brian, that's why a number of people have added 2-3 muffin fans to the backside of the refrigerator, to move the air up and out. There's a lot more information on the CasitaForum about it.

[Betty Randazzo]

Radio Shack has 4" AC computer cooling fan that has 2 wires you can put a plug on and set in front of the black fridge compressor in the outside compartment. On our Scamp, it fits and we can shut the compartment vented door even. We replaced our fridge, but still, in 80/90degree heat it struggles until we found the fan idea. Didn't want to use any space up inside for a little battery fridge fan, finally we stay at 40 or below!!

[Brian Van Snell]

Donna:

We bought a small clamp-on fan from Fred Meyer for about $12. It runs on 110 volts. I had seen the muffin fan idea but reasoned that the heat exchanger on the fridge mainly needs air circulating, the cooler the better, muffin fan or not.

Really the biggest difference seemed to come from parking with the fridge side in the shade. At Valley of the Rogue we first had a site which was in direct sun and the fridge was having a rough time. We switched to a different site with the fridge side in the shade and had no trouble keeping things cool.

It helps to monitor the inside temperature, which I think you do also. Then you can have an accurate idea of what is going on.

Brian

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Brian, that's why a number of people have added 2-3 muffin fans to the backside of the refrigerator, to move the air up and out. There's a lot more information on the CasitaForum about it.

[Donna D.]

I know what you mean Brian. At one hot rod show, where I was camped in a field... no shade for blocks. I propped a piece of cardboard against the frig vents (with it was propped open) and also clamped a small fan to a lawn chair blowing right at it. That was the only thing that would allow the frig to cool down. A mix of shade and a fan!

[Brian Van Snell]

Donna:

When do you sleep?

Brian