fridge warms up but doesn't cool - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-29-2013, 10:41 PM   #15
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That it gets hot only tells you that the 120VAC heating element is working.
Is there any smell of ammonia inside or outside, thats a bad sign.

To be honest, unless it was stored inside, an almost 40 y.o. refrigerator that still works is a rare bird. The one in my 73 Hunter works, but there isn't a speck of rust anywhere on the pipes or boiler. It's rust that usually does in the cooling circuit and, in one that old, it's not repairable.

If it gets hot on 120 VAC and doesn't cool inside, don't waste any money on the LP side, it won't work anyway.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:47 PM   #16
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The ground should not interfere with the operation of the fridge. It is meant to ground the fridge, so that if it is energized at 120VAC, it will blow a fuse, or something. This is as opposed to killing you instead....(opps...am I fear mongering?...).
The connection should be copper back to the fuse where the 120VAC enters the trailer, or the breaker box.

I would say that hearing fluid sloshing around is a good sign. I would love for someone in the know to explain, in the context of the rest of the operation of the fridge, how this helps, but I hear it does. I look forward to your results.

By the way, Bolers frequently have an RM211. It is an archaic fridge, but commonly available. I currently own three of them. Look out near you. Someone will be scrapping a pop up, and turning it into a quad trailer. To them it seems a shame to throw away a perfectly good appliance, and they give it away on kijiji. At least, that is how I got my third one, along with a gravity furnace and a sink.
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:56 PM   #17
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Hey guys - the upside down magic trick works!
Left it upside down for 2 days, plugged it in this morning and the fridge is now cold inside! woo hoo - thanks for the suggestion.

While waiting for the fridge to work, I installed a GFI socket under the cabinet that everything else plugs into or is wired through - including the sockets on front of the cabinet.

Have a few parts on the way from Scamp and vintagetrailersupply, then the final addition will be removing the ugly fluoresent lights and adding the LED strip lights from Lee Valley.

Thanks again all, really appreciate all the insight and tips!
Steve
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:08 PM   #18
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Hey guys - the upside down magic trick works!
Left it upside down for 2 days, plugged it in this morning and the fridge is now cold inside! woo hoo - thanks for the suggestion.

While waiting for the fridge to work, I installed a GFI socket under the cabinet that everything else plugs into or is wired through - including the sockets on front of the cabinet.

Have a few parts on the way from Scamp and vintagetrailersupply, then the final addition will be removing the ugly fluoresent lights and adding the LED strip lights from Lee Valley.

Thanks again all, really appreciate all the insight and tips!
Steve
Great news. Did you get it to work on gas?
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:25 PM   #19
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Hi Tom, no the pilot still goes out when I try to light it, so I guess I'll need to try a new thermocoupler. No idea where to find one, do you if they are pretty generic? Or do I need one specific to this brand/model fridge?
Steve
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:29 PM   #20
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Hi Tom, no the pilot still goes out when I try to light it, so I guess I'll need to try a new thermocoupler. No idea where to find one, do you if they are pretty generic? Or do I need one specific to this brand/model fridge?
Steve
Take what you have to a place that sells appliance parts or even a hardware store. If it is unique to that refrigerator, you may need to chase one down on the internet. You can find the part number by searching for "parts manual for XYZ Refrigerator", get the part number, then do a search for that part number.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:52 PM   #21
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"fridge warms up but doesn't cool "

That's the oven, mate. The fridge is over there, on the other side of the galley.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:53 PM   #22
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You don't Need a thermocouple. You just need to clean the tube and orfice.
You have a spider nest in that tube.
Air alone won't do it. The gas can't flow past the sticky web, easy fix.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:57 PM   #23
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You don't Need a thermocouple. You just need to clean the tube and orfice.
You have a spider nest in that tube.
Air alone won't do it. The gas can't flow past the sticky web, easy fix.
Very likely. I had a spider web in mine and I couldn't find it until I took it apart. They can be quite tiny.
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:28 PM   #24
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I'll attach a couple photos shortly, but I've removed what I think is the thermocouple, it's a little probe on the end of a tube that sits just above the pilot flame??
And Mszabo, what tube and orfice are you referring to that needs cleaning? The little burner/pilot? Take that off and clean it?
Cheers
Steve
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:33 PM   #25
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You might find this post worth reading:

Trailer Fridge now Working Properly
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:37 PM   #26
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Have read it a couple times, great post. The trick is I'm not sure what is what....hopefully my photos will help, once I get them posted.
Steve
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:22 PM   #27
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I'd try running it on electric for a couple of weeks before tackling the LP problem. Turning it upside down loosens up the debris inside and all to often it circulates for a few days or weeks and stops things up again.
Most Important... be sure it is level at all times when ON.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:39 PM   #28
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how long did you hold the red button in for? it can take more than a minute for the thermocouple to generate enough electricity to keep the valve open
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