fridge warms up but doesn't cool - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-06-2013, 08:14 PM   #29
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Joe - "generate enough electricity" do you mean to say that the fridge should be plugged in when trying to run it on propane??
Ive been trying to get it to run on propane, but WITHOUT it being plugged in to any electrical source.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:29 PM   #30
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I posted up some links for troubleshooting domectic fridges a couple of days agoMore fridge problems

very good reading
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:36 PM   #31
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The older dometic fridges like the RM211 do not need power when running on propane The thermal couple generates a very small amount of voltage to keep the shutoff open.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:46 AM   #32
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Me too. It bothers me, because I feel like I understand compressor refrigeration very well. I am beginning to get it though. It is still a pressure differential that drives the cooling process. But there are many other properties at play. Partial pressure effects were new to me. This is the first I have heard of sodium chromate. I often wondered what the particles, or as some refer to the, crystals were. I guess this is what they were talking about.
Yeah every time I think I finally understand this type of fridge someone posts something or I find an article that makes me feel like I'm missed something along the way.

No one told the OP what the technical term for turning a fridge on it's side or upside down is called... a sad oversight. What you are doing right now is called burping a fridge. Now even if it doesn't work you can sound professional in describing what you tried.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:49 AM   #33
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Steve, I will not even to pretend that I have any reasonable understanding as to why but as Joe mentioned I also have to keep the red button on mine pushed down for a long time - up to a minute before it will stay light on its own. All I can say is it seems as though the tubie thingy that the spiders like to spin their webs in seems to need to get well warmed up before it will stay on.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:42 AM   #34
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Steve, I will not even to pretend that I have any reasonable understanding as to why but as Joe mentioned I also have to keep the red button on mine pushed down for a long time - up to a minute before it will stay light on its own.
The thermocouple heats up and produces a small voltage that holds the safety valve open. It's position in relationship to the flame determines have fast it heats up. When it's serviced, the position should be checked. Also, the electrical connection on the other end should be cleaned. Dirty contacts can cause enough resistance to stop the thermocouple from doing it's job. Raz
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:58 AM   #35
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Thanks Raz for the simple explanation as to why. It seems to take longer to stay light if it hasn't been used for awhile, if its been used recently (within the last month) its much easier to light. Is there an explanation for that as well?
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:34 AM   #36
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Thanks Raz for the simple explanation as to why. It seems to take longer to stay light if it hasn't been used for awhile, if its been used recently (within the last month) its much easier to light. Is there an explanation for that as well?
No, and I don't see how contact resistance or proximity of the thermocouple would explain it. Maybe someones messin' with you. I usually blame things like that on the weather or LGM (little green men). They're everywhere...........
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:45 AM   #37
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Maybe someones messin' with you. I usually blame things like that on the weather or LGM (little green men). They're everywhere...........
well that's kind of been my explanation for it to-date. As they say sometimes not knowing is bliss! At this point due to the age of the fridge I am just happy it does work.
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