Frigidaire FRA054XT7, condensation? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-03-2012, 08:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
Thinking a hatch like this would work to cover the AC exhaust when not in use.

Innovative Product Solutions M-1115-AW 11 x 15 Arctic White Boat Deck Hatch

I'd prefer something vented, then I wouldn't have to open it to use it, but I want something that opens so I can put a layer of insulation in off season. But the non vented hatch might be better peace of mind during long winters.
The problem with those hatches are they are plastic and will break once you try to secure them to the curved shell. I had to purchase aluminum hatches made by Pelland Enterprises here RV Parts and Motorhome Parts Online Outlet
A little pricey but quality and they can be bent to follow the curvature.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:27 PM   #16
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Don't know how to post pics on here. I have them and can send them via e-mail if you can get me your e-mail address.
Those are very helpful pics. Might be good reference for people, I can upload them to a gallery if you want for all to discuss.

So your cool air intake is just that vent in the top of the wheel well? I'd be concerned about water splashing up while towing in poor weather. I'd guess a few hours on wet roads and it would be soaking in there. Have you had any experience with that?

And what kind of vent on the side are you using?
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The problem with those hatches are they are plastic and will break once you try to secure them to the curved shell. I had to purchase aluminum hatches made by Pelland Enterprises here RV Parts and Motorhome Parts Online Outlet
A little pricey but quality and they can be bent to follow the curvature.
Interesting link, I've spent hours searching and there's some options on there that are very cool.

Radius corner exterior screw mount full louvered door. Can be manufactured solid panel, propane, or full louver. Made to your specifications.

https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...4564&Return=97

If they can make me one to my exact size? And put louvers on there that will vent well???? I'd pay a pretty penny for that. The AC unit was super cheap! So I can afford a little to get it installed right.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:52 PM   #18
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Those are very helpful pics. Might be good reference for people, I can upload them to a gallery if you want for all to discuss.

So your cool air intake is just that vent in the top of the wheel well? I'd be concerned about water splashing up while towing in poor weather. I'd guess a few hours on wet roads and it would be soaking in there. Have you had any experience with that?

And what kind of vent on the side are you using?

No, the hole in the top of the wheel well is the exhaust for the hot air going out the back of the AC unit. I have no vent on the side of the Scamp.

The vent on the wheel well can be closed while underway, to prevent water from splashing inside.

My cool air intakes are under the dinette seat. When the AC unit is running it creates negative air pressure in that whole area so is no problem for it to draw air up through the holes under the dinette seat. I can take a picture of those holes if you like.
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:09 PM   #19
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Ahhh!! I get it.

I'll take any and all pics you feel like taking/posting. But I can get a pretty good sense of what you mean from your description.

What about draining, have you had any condensation excess?
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:15 AM   #20
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Ahhh!! I get it.

I'll take any and all pics you feel like taking/posting. But I can get a pretty good sense of what you mean from your description.

What about draining, have you had any condensation excess?


Will take a picture of the inlet vent holes and send you. I neglected to take a picture of the condensate pan that the AC unit sits in.

Yes, under extremely humid conditions, the AC fan cannot totally dissipate the condensate. The pan drain takes care of the excess. The trick is to make sure to have the proper slope toward the rear when trailer is level.

This AC solution may not be the optimum for everyone. However; my goal was to come up with something that provided AC yet required no visible vent holes. We have had temps at or near 100 with very high humidity and this set up does just fine.

I do not think this design will provide the very maximum efficiency of the AC unit due to a bit of flow drag of the exhaust. Even at that, it does work. This is a new Scamp which we picked up at the factory in May so I have not had opportunity to use the AC over the long haul. Use over time will provide more data.
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:22 PM   #21
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You may not get ideal air flow, but if it's working for you the lack of major shell modifications is a huge plus. Talking to Scamp however they did say they stopped selling the closet configuration because all the new small window units they've tried have had reliability issues when lacking good air flow. They say it may not be a problem for users who don't mind replacing a cheap AC unit every few years, but they couldn't reasonably warranty that situation.

So I think I will be venting the condenser directly out, but I still need the right hatch/vent for that. But do the air intake from the dinette seat like you did.

I opened up the unit last night and did some experiements. First thing was to stuff some plastic bag into the little buzzer on one of the circuit boards and then cover it in tape. It makes a SHREIKING beep at any control input, so now you can barely hear it. Then I tried pouring a little water on the evaporator to see where it would flow, and end up if I kept pouring. Seems it flows to the back area under the condenser and as expected gets kicked up by the fan on the condenser. If it gets deep enough it flows over a small ridge of plastic and out a hole under the compressor. It's in a great spot on the back corner that I think is clear of the wheel well. It actually looks like it's made to have something plug into it. But something could be attached I'm sure. I may tap the plastic bottom of the AC under the condenser fan area and put drain there too, that way I could put a valve on there and prevent any build up of water or drain built up water before I got underway and sloshed it all out into the closet. Or just do the drain pan thing. I would like to see how your's fit.

I'll get a few pics I took up.
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:19 PM   #22
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Pics.....


You can sort of see the overflow hole here.



The compressor and control side of the unit.



The main circuit board. You can see the black foam tape I've put over the extremely loud buzzer. I also stuffed plastic bag material into the buzzer to bring it to less than ear shattering volumes.



Top down view.
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Old 07-21-2012, 02:11 PM   #23
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OK, I took some more pics of the bottom of the unit, including a close up on the overflow drain hole. Notice how it looks like it's made for something to plug in that hole and turn to lock?

Drain hole:


Overview of the underside:


Vent of unknown function, importance:


And I think, at least temporarily, I'll be using two of these to vent the hot air out of the side. Cheap, available locally, They should keep rain out and can be opened for cleaning, or stuffed with insulation in winter. Not as pretty as I'd like. A custom door/vent will eventually be ordered I suspect.

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