Furnace / Battery Problem - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-18-2007, 06:35 PM   #15
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Brian, the fuse block that I pulled from my Magnatek converter is a board with a common connector on it for terminating the negative/ground/return lead(s) for each fused circuit... But, to be clear, I did NOT mean to imply that a negative/ground/return wire should be connected to a fuse or the fuse bus.

Here's an example of something like it:

12 Circuit Fuse Block with Negative Bus

Note that the upper terminals on the block are negative and the lower terminals are fused positive.
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
In my Boler - and my case it not unique - the white wires come together somewhere in the nest of random wiring and connect to each other with a variety of crimped-on wiring caps (circles in my diagram, below). There is no bus bar anywhere for the negative side.
My Scamp is wired something like that but the white wire eventually comes back to the (-) terminal on the fuse block board. This can be seen in the Scamp Wiring Diagram in Helpful Documents.

Any circuits I added have a 'home-run' negative lead as well as the fused positive lead, just as done in 120VAC wiring -- Easy enough to run the negative wire when I'm running the fused positive one. I'd rather have a few extra wires with connections only on the ends than have connections buried in the runs -- Makes for less trouble, easier troubleshooting and no worries about resistance loss.

If I were wiring from scratch, I would have every internal circuit set up with two wires on a fuse block like the one in the post above and would probably have terminal strips for external lighting as well to increase reliability and aid troubleshooting. However, I can understand why manufacturers wouldn't go for the extra equipment and labor.
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:20 PM   #17
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Pete, I know you didn't mean that there was a fuse in the negative connection... it's the whole idea of Boler supplying a nice negative bus bar that's hilarious. We're lucky they even followed a colour code.

I agree that the "home run" wiring approach is more reliable. In addition to the mess in my drawing, the negative wires have lots of buried connections in the middle of the runs; since I have yet to find all the bad ones, some of my clearance lights are erratic.
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