Furnace removal - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-24-2009, 08:46 AM   #1
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Trailer: Boler
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Is there a good way to remove a furnace?I have a Wagonmaster that I want gone,and removed the faceplate/grill,removed 4 screws from the fibreglass surround,and the sucker doesn't move,not a fraction.Anyone successfully,cleanly and without severe blood loss have the method down?I don't have the original schematics for this beast,so I have no idea what to do from here.
Waiting with bated breath..
Rick
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Old 08-24-2009, 12:48 PM   #2
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Name: Pat
Trailer: U-Haul CT13 ('Pearl')
SW Ohio
Posts: 174
I just pulled an old heater out of my Uhaul. It had a vent tube that was attached and really rusty. I had to remove the outside vent to get it out. Not only that, it weighed about 25 pounds! Hope a boler owner can help you more. Good Luck!
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:04 PM   #3
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
Posts: 1,556
I just removed a Dou-Therm (non/ fan furnace) from a slide in pick-up camper this weekend. I had to remove the outside vent cover. Then there is a metal housing which attaches to the camper skin this is the air intake and in the center is the exhaust vent. The exhaust pipe was attached to the intake with two brackets by pan head secews. After removing the screws, I had to bend the brackets out of the way, then I was able to pull the furnace out with exhaust pipe attached to the furnace. Of course I had removed several screws from around the furnace on the inside the trailer earlier. Hope this helps. Mine was also pretty heavy.
Eddie
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:41 PM   #4
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Name: Dana
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr
California
Posts: 540
Some people would dearly love to have that Wagonmaster, but only if it is still usable.

If you don't care about that, the easiest way is to cut the vent somewhere between the main heater box and where it goes through the wall of the trailer. A hacksaw works pretty well if you have enough room. The outer wall of the vent is moderately thin sheet metal, but the inner one is a lot thicker because it has to deal with the heat, and thus the oxidation, due to the exhaust gases.

I managed to pull mine out for reworking the cabinetry without destroying it by taking off the outer grill cover (the one outside the trailer), removing the two screws holding the inner exhaust vent to the outer one, then using a prybar and short length (14"??) of 2x4 jammed into the angled "hat" of the exhaust vent and rotating the vent back and forth while sliding it out. At first it is quite difficult, but once the rust has broken loose it becomes easier and easier to rotate the vent.

After the inner exhaust vent is completely removed then you can remove the outer fresh-air vent. It's much easier -- in mine it wasn't rusted in place but was glued in by some old mudwasp nests.

After the vents have been removed, either by pulling them out from the outside of the trailer or by hacking them off, then the heater can be pulled out into the aisle.

Enjoy!!
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:53 PM   #5
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Trailer: Boler
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Quote:
Some people would dearly love to have that Wagonmaster, but only if it is still usable.

If you don't care about that, the easiest way is to cut the vent somewhere between the main heater box and where it goes through the wall of the trailer. A hacksaw works pretty well if you have enough room. The outer wall of the vent is moderately thin sheet metal, but the inner one is a lot thicker because it has to deal with the heat, and thus the oxidation, due to the exhaust gases.

I managed to pull mine out for reworking the cabinetry without destroying it by taking off the outer grill cover (the one outside the trailer), removing the two screws holding the inner exhaust vent to the outer one, then using a prybar and short length (14"??) of 2x4 jammed into the angled "hat" of the exhaust vent and rotating the vent back and forth while sliding it out. At first it is quite difficult, but once the rust has broken loose it becomes easier and easier to rotate the vent.

After the inner exhaust vent is completely removed then you can remove the outer fresh-air vent. It's much easier -- in mine it wasn't rusted in place but was glued in by some old mudwasp nests.

After the vents have been removed, either by pulling them out from the outside of the trailer or by hacking them off, then the heater can be pulled out into the aisle.

Enjoy!!
Well,I now have a COMPLETE Wagonmaster furnace,removed successfully(thanks,Dana!).Light little buggers.This one is rusty,but,it's free to anyone who wants it!I'll be in Vancouver in a couple of weeks,so,if there's a place to deliver round there,please,let me know!!
Again,my thanks.forums are fun,informative,and prevents me from needing to go to the emergency ward!
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:23 PM   #6
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Name: Dana
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr
California
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Congratulations!
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:50 PM   #7
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Name: Dana
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr
California
Posts: 540
Rick, why don't you post the availability of the furnace in the "For Sale -- Pay it Forward" thread?

That and the "For Sale" thread are where people usually go to find things they want -- they might not notice this thread and thus miss the fact it's available.
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Old 08-29-2009, 07:23 AM   #8
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Trailer: 1973 Compact II
Posts: 68
Maybe I missed something but I'm not seeing what to do about the power source for the furnace. I would like to take out the furnace from my Compact II to get more room for other things but am somewhat fearful of leaping into the project then realizing I didn't plan ahead for the power source?????????

Any advice?
thanks,
pat
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Old 08-29-2009, 10:07 AM   #9
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Trailer: Boler
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The Wagonmaster had no electrical connection but rather an ignition similar to a BBQ.So,no help from moi!
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:25 AM   #10
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Name: Dana
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr
California
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Pat, when you say "power source" for the furnace, I'm not sure whether you mean the gas supply (which is used for the heat) or possibly electricity, which some furnaces use for a fan.

As far as I know, Hunter used only fanless heaters in Compact Jrs. That means there are probably no electrical connections to worry about. However, the gas supply needs to be properly capped off. On mine the copper tubing supplying gas to the furnace leads to a tee next to the wheel well. When I took out my furnace while I was redoing the kitchen area, I turned off the valve on the propane tank, took loose the copper tubing leading to the furnace at the tee by the wheelwell, and replaced it with a 3/8" flare cap (cost $1 at OSH). Then I turned on the gas and immediately tested for leaks using a bubble solution. When I find a leak I turn off the gas, do something to try to fix the leak, then repeat the process of turning on the gas and testing for leaks.

One thing about taking loose the tubing at the furnace and also at the tee -- you have to use two wrenches -- one on the nut and the other on the thing you are unscrewing the nut from. I arrange the wrenches so when I squeeze the handles together that causes the nut to turn in the direction I want -- counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. By arranging the wrenches in this manner I am not imparting any stress on other parts of the gas system, and thus avoid creating additional leaks.
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:11 AM   #11
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Trailer: 1973 Compact II
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Quote:
Pat, when you say "power source" for the furnace, I'm not sure whether you mean the gas supply (which is used for the heat) or possibly electricity, which some furnaces use for a fan.

As far as I know, Hunter used only fanless heaters in Compact Jrs. That means there are probably no electrical connections to worry about. However, the gas supply needs to be properly capped off. On mine the copper tubing supplying gas to the furnace leads to a tee next to the wheel well. When I took out my furnace while I was redoing the kitchen area, I turned off the valve on the propane tank, took loose the copper tubing leading to the furnace at the tee by the wheelwell, and replaced it with a 3/8" flare cap (cost $1 at OSH). Then I turned on the gas and immediately tested for leaks using a bubble solution. When I find a leak I turn off the gas, do something to try to fix the leak, then repeat the process of turning on the gas and testing for leaks.

One thing about taking loose the tubing at the furnace and also at the tee -- you have to use [b]two wrenches -- one on the nut and the other on the thing you are unscrewing the nut from. I arrange the wrenches so when I squeeze the handles together that causes the nut to turn in the direction I want -- counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. By arranging the wrenches in this manner I am not imparting any stress on other parts of the gas system, and thus avoid creating additional leaks.
Thanks Dana - you've let me know what to look out for and what to do. Pat
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Old 08-30-2009, 11:06 PM   #12
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Name: Dana
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr
California
Posts: 540
You're welcome Pat. Let us know if you run into problems, and also when you finish what step(s) I left out.
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