fuse panel - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-21-2006, 07:17 PM   #15
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...The exterior light is removable. It is a light fixture that you plug into an outlet on the outside of the trailer once you set up camp...
That sounds like a really interesting setup. The plug/receptacle design would be interesting to see (when you get a chance to take pictures) and might offer a clue about the operating voltage as well. Is it a common design that you could describe (e.g. normal household outlet, automotive lighter socket, etc)?
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:07 PM   #16
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We checked the light bulbs but were unable to determine if they were 110 or 12v as most of the writing on the bulb has been rubbed off. The battery is complely dead and won't take a charge so will have to replace it and see if any or all lights work on 12v. Pics of the outside light are coming, just waiting for the camera battery to finish charging.
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:28 PM   #17
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That's a good plan. From what you've written so far, I'd be willing to bet that all of those lights are really 12v lights and run off the battery!

Roger
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Old 02-21-2006, 11:17 PM   #18
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We are back to square one. We contacted the former owner and they say that the two interior lights and the one exterior light are 110 and worked. Rick is going to get a voltmeter (I think that's what it is called) and we will see where we stand then.

We took some photos of the exterior light (which I think is pretty darn cool) and the outlet boxes in the closet.

We appreciate everyone's help!

*Shannen*
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Old 02-22-2006, 05:42 AM   #19
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They sure do look like 110! That's amazing... I doubt very much that any of that is factory. Normally, there would be a breaker box somewhere near where the pigtail enters the trailer... but since that was probably installed by some previous owner... who knows?

This is going to be a toughie... I think the multi-meter is your best hope.

Roger
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Old 02-22-2006, 08:42 AM   #20
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After seeing the pictures it is very clear that this wiring is not the original factory wiring at all.

If someone added this 120volt ac wiring I would hope they also provided some sort of disconnect/protection for it also.
It should not be too hard to see where this enters the trailer and try to follow it from there carefully measuring voltage until you figure it out.

The 12volt dc wiring certainly originated from the battery location and you should be able to connect any working 12 volt dc source there and do the same tracing on this side of the wiring.
Again I would hope there is some sort of disconnect/protection for the 12volt system even if it is merely a single fuse inline.

Do not be afraid to seek professional help,it is not worth risking your safety and it should be fairly simple to figure out for someone familiar with these systems.

Ed
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Old 02-22-2006, 09:00 AM   #21
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I just went and studied the pictures a little longer and now I think I understand better what I am seeing.

The box in the bottem of the closet is directly above where the 120volt ac wiring comes into the trailer.
It goes to this box and then branches up to the two outlets in the side of the closet that we can see the rear of and then onto the outside light as we can also see the rear of that box.
My 1300 did not have these three boxes and they do look newer than the trailer to me.

The next thing is this....under the cover plate of the box in the closet bottem where the wire comes into the trailer there should be three wires.
-One feeds the trailer from the cable outside.
-another feeds the circuits we just spoke of and can see in the pictures
-the third(if it is like mine)goes under the step up for the bed/table and to the sink side of the trailer. On mine there is an outlet on the side of the sink facing the seating are(a strange location) and then it goes onto the fixture above the sink which I also had but forgot I had removed.

What I am getting at is that you should be able to see the 120volt ac at box in the bottem of the closet first.
If it is not there then I would suspect the cable that feeds the trailer has a problem,not hard to beleive for a 30+ year old cable living outside much of the time.
If there is voltage there then look to the connections to the wire that leave that box heading for the other two circuits. The newer one that is fully exposed inside the closet should be easy to trace as you see and touch it for its entire length.
The one that goes to the sink side may not be as simple but I don't really think you problems are there anyway.

My guess is that somewhere where the cable comnes into the trailer it is broken or the connections inside the box in the bottem of the closet are just bad and broken.

Be careful here too as these voltages can kill.

I hope this made some sense.
Please let me know if not.

Ed
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Old 02-22-2006, 04:53 PM   #22
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Thanks to Rick and Shannen for posting the photos - they were as interesting and informative as hoped. The outside lamp socket is particularly interesting, as it is clearly a normal 120VAC socket (although it would work for 12VDC if someone wanted to mis-apply it that way), and I have never seen a light fixture bigger than a 7-watt night light supported directly by the outlet like that.

To check AC wiring at the sockets (which in this case includes the outside light) I would prefer to use a cheap tester from any hardware store, for as little as $5. (In practice, I usually plug in my trouble light and see if it lights up...) They just plug in like a plug without any cord attached, and report if there is power, if the power is on the correct wire (not hot and neutral reversed), and if there is an obvious ground fault. Safe, easy, fast, and cheap - all good features.

Of course the tester won't do anything except confirm the lack of power until some sort of connection is made to a power source, but it should help with the rest of the checking. Only sticking voltmeter probes into places which are expected to have 12V would be preferable to probing everything this way.
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Old 02-22-2006, 07:16 PM   #23
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I`d concur with Ed on connections possibly in the junction box at entry to the trailer...I`d check the connections there first....possibly loose Marettes.....Benny
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Old 02-22-2006, 08:48 PM   #24
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We plugged power into the trill again and did some testing and what we found was that it is getting power but not the full 110v, only getting about 85v, which I'm told isn't enough to light a single light bulb. One of the prongs on the pigtail was loose, thinking ( hoping ) that may be the problem so that will be the first thing I will replace. Thanks for all the help so far, I'm sure I'll need more in the future!
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:55 PM   #25
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I am trying to beat Rick to the punch here but we have GREAT news...

WE HAVE 110 POWER...FINALLY!

Replacing the pigtail was key and now our cute little porch light works (as do the interior lights). Our next test will be to see how well the fridge works. We have our fingers crossed on that one.

Our first big purchase will be a fantastic fan and I think we will have that professionally installed (depending on the cost, of course).

We are almost all set for camping!
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