Fuse Panel and Converter addition.. 79 Scamp 16

[Dave Frazer]

I am going to add a fuse panel and converter to my 1979 Scamp 16.

Today it is only wired for 120V.

Can someone please tell me the best place in the trailer to locate these?



Thank You,
Dave

[Joe MacDonald]

its really about convenince in my opinion. I would put it where it makes the majority of the wiring you have to do as easy as possible. if you already have 120 v power, then that might be an area to start, as the power cable already comes thru the hull, and you probably have a small breaker panel there. pick out what units you want to use, get their dimensions, and see where you can fit them

Joe

[Eddie Longest]

On a 79 Scamp the power cord is more than likely on the door side. Most campgrounds now have the power and water on the drivers side and the newer Scamps have the power cords on the drivers side and the converter under the dinette seat.
Running a charge wire to the battery is easier on the drivers side of the trailer. Your old power cord outlet hole can usually be filled with a 20 amp ground fault outlet which real nice to have while camping.
Maybe not the easiest way to do it but it is more standard with the newer trailers. Also when moving the power cord I use a twist lock connector to get rid of the mouse entrance hole.
Eddie

[Timber Wolf]

Accessibility, both for the initial install and later service would be a priority to me. Short wire runs are a consideration but this would take a back seat to accessibility IMHO. In my 88' it is under the rear street side dinette and I expect to leave it there when I upgrade.

[Bob Miller]

You can replace everything in one unit with a Progressive Dynamics PD-4045, move your AC to the other side and get a fuse panel at the same time. I have installed about 8 of them and that's my choice. Most have been installed in the front of a dinette seat.

[Dave Frazer]

Thanks guys!

Bob, my power cord is on the drivers side and comes in to the rear of the cook top under the counter. Do you use a twist lock when putting in a new power cord?

I guess this is so you don't have to push the cord back in the mouse hole for storage?

Dave

[Dave Frazer]

Another question, with the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 does this have the fuse panel and converter all in one unit?

[Bob Miller]

Yep, the PD-4045 has an AC input and distribution section with room for up to 8 AC circuits, a pigtailed fuse panel with about 12 DC circuits, a 45 amp converter and a multi-stage smart charger. All in one. Here is a typical link, also check the MFG's pages and, BTW, that's a fairly good price shown.
Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power PD4045 45 Amp AC/DC Distributio..

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Dave Frazer

Thanks guys!

Bob, my power cord is on the drivers side and comes in to the rear of the cook top under the counter. Do you use a twist lock when putting in a new power cord?

I guess this is so you don't have to push the cord back in the mouse hole for storage?

Dave

I always install a weatherproof 1`20 VAC input plug on RV's when rewiring. For smaller units a simple 3 pin 15-20 amp is sufficient, or you can use a larger 3 pin twist-lock which is a lot more secure when connected.

Unless there is an AC unit, or you have an "All Electric" trailer, the 15-20 amp connector is usually adequate for most 13' ers.

[Dave Frazer]

When you say input you mean a recessed, flanged inlet device that has a male end in it?

I do have an A/C roof top unit. My trailer is a 1979 16ft.

I'm thinking a 20Amp flanged inlet twist lock. I guess I need to do some load calc's.

With the A/C/Heater and lights.....

[Dave Frazer]

Bob- Is this what you install?

[Bob Miller]

If you have a rooftop air unit I would suggest always going with a 30 amp connection and cable. At many RV sites your power may be marginal and you can't afford any line loss between the power post and your rig.
Here is what a typical 30a twist lock input looks like, almost all others will cost less: 30 A RV Power Inlet - Marinco 301ELRV - Electrical Adapters - Camping World


BTW: The pic/link in your post #10 didn't work.

[Timber Wolf]

The PD-4045 looks like a good unit, but I don't see why one necessarily needs to re-do the 120V A/C side of things. My breaker box is fine and if it ain't broke I am not fixing it. I just want to upgrade the converter and 12V D/C charging, converter, and fuse/distribution side of things. Other PD products are better suited for that.

[Bob Miller]

Do what ever fits ones own needs.


I also wanted the additional ac breaker slots and to move the input cable anyway. . As I recall the 2002 Scamp we had was already wired for ac input to the power chassis, but I don't know how earlier units are wired. My Hunter came with room for exactly two breakers, main and outlets & a/c lights. Enough for 1973, but not for 2015.


The corollary to "It it ain't broken, don't fix it", is "If there's a better way, do it"....


BTW: It may still be less expensive and simpler to just buy a PD-4045 and not even wire in the a/c section, except for maybe a single breaker for the converter, from your existing AC box.

[David Tilston]

Bob doesn't like it much, but if all you are looking for is DC power, Progressive Dynamics makes the PD4655, PD4645, and PD4635. These are meant as upgrades to other manufactures converters / battery chargers.
4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement Power Converters from Progressive Dynamics

This is a thread where someone installed one in a Trillium 4500. If my old converter dies, I will probably put one of these in.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ter-48962.html

It should be noted that this is a more expensive option then the 4045 advocated by Bob.
Progressive Dynamics PD4645 4600 Series 45 Amp Converter Upgrade Section: Amazon.ca: Automotive

Hey Bob, What does the converter / charger in the PD4045 look like? Could you strip it down to a PD4645?

[Bob Miller]

Question of the first: I have also installed the PD stand alone converter/smart chargers where the customer wanted to keep their existing panel. It usually fits inside the space opened up when the old converter is removed, a converterectomy if you will......


But most of the more mature trailers on here don't have all that much for either ac or dc distribution. One circuit breaker, a handful of inline fuses and a wire loom just isn't much of a start LOL....


Second Question... No, the PD-4045's converter/smart charger is a circuit board and wouldn't do well standing alone.