Gas Absorbtion Refrigerators - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-13-2008, 08:56 AM   #15
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Yes it rusted from the outside in. On mine, a larger Dometic I beleive the guy showed me the spot.
It's about 1/3 down from the top and in the middle of the coil. Right where the plastic drain area is.
This was about 25 yrs ago so I'm hazy on the rest of it. I remember the shop had a ton of the same type frig being fixed. Pretty much for the same reason.

Now my friend removed his about the same time and put a larger one in his trailer. The original he stuck into his basement wall , plugged it into 110v and it's still running today.
Something Harry Young said here,

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P.S. Be sure of the disposal rules for your refrigerator in your area according to its type...Freon or if its Amonia... [b]It can very flamable, caustic and poisonous, Never puncture or incinerate this type of system, respritory distress or failure can result.
reminded me of something. Absorption cycle refrigerators have another gas besides ammonia in them, which I think is hydrogen (correct me if I'm wrong). This is the gas into which the liquified ammonia evaporates, just as water evaporates into air at a temperature far below its boiling point. If you smell ammonia then you may also have a hydrogen leak with the possibility of an explosion hazard. Of course if you smell ammonia you should get out anyway as it is poisonous in high concentrations.
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Old 05-13-2008, 02:14 PM   #16
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You are bang on Danny and Roger,

At the risk of repeating myself both your talking points are 100% correct.

The difference in the properties of these gases and condensed liquids which boil at a low temp creates the heat pumping qualities and are very explosive...Hydrogen is one of the bad boys in the recipe.

When the refrigerator is not level a death cycle begins corrupting its well thought out design making its advantages become its undoing...The buffering agent in suspension inside the box is in solution ie. "a soup" this buffering agent gets left behind as a condensed solid in the tubes and does not easily go back into solution because it crystallizes...These crystals may clog the carburetor "the funny tube that is always to one side and vertical to the heat source ie a 12v heater or 120v heating element or a pilot flame source.

This became so annoying in the old design that new units now use a dual carb set up on all manufactures now...The old ones could be salvaged in the short term with the upside down trick but it has a cruel catch...It will get you camping again...but...Even though the carb would/could unplug the buffering agent that made the ammonia behave does not redisolve into the now more corrosive ammonia solution...The crystals migrate to the bottom of the system and sit there inert sometimes trapped by a screen in some models...The ammonia now has become more caustic and more corrosive albeit more dangerous! It begins to attack the metal tubing from the inside out until pin holes develop...Allot of fires occur in older RVs because when these leaks occur while traveling and on propane...usually because the 12v element burned out and the owner could not find a replacement...the leak causes a rapid fire to develop, its several times hotter than a campfire or propane and can have a shockwave faster than sound.

Which brings me to the other correct point this forum makes... You guys are correct about traveling... if in the desert or in urgent need use 12v mode only when on the move...Or dry ice, Or if your like me a gallon plastic bottle of really good frozen water frozen two days before...Or a gallon of frozen milk...Store it in the pre cooled box while on the road...Start your unit up at your camp spot after leveling all three axis points for the box!...level respective to the fridge not the coach!!!!! this is critical Manufactures are sinners campers...When they install these fridges they oft just throw them in by eyeball...When you level the coach the refrigerator can be perilously off canter even though the coach is honestly saying level. But the refrigerator is as crooked as bad dice in a cheap vegas casino.

These boxes last years and years...more than the modern freon ones...no moving parts really... when used correctly they last and last. I have a full sized one "looks just like a home unit" in a cabin that is 30 years old, never serviced.

Ignorance kills these and makes me money.

Harry
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Old 05-16-2008, 10:28 PM   #17
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These boxes last years and years...more than the modern freon ones...no moving parts really... when used correctly they last and last. I have a full sized one "looks just like a home unit" in a cabin that is 30 years old, never serviced.

Ignorance kills these and makes me money.

Harry
Harry, you got me thinking that if my current HADCO still runs on household current it might be worth using in my garage. Are they relatively energy efficient or do they use a lot of electricity? It sure would be nice to have access to cold soda and juice while I'm working down in the garage restoring the Campster!

Thanks for all of your helpful, informative advice!
Lisa
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:00 PM   #18
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It uses aprox 300 to 400 watts per hour, a compressor in this size range uses 600 to 800 watts...if it works Id use it.

Harry
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Harry, you got me thinking that if my current HADCO still runs on household current it might be worth using in my garage. Are they relatively energy efficient or do they use a lot of electricity? It sure would be nice to have access to cold soda and juice while I'm working down in the garage restoring the Campster!

Thanks for all of your helpful, informative advice!
Lisa
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:09 AM   #19
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It uses aprox 300 to 400 watts per hour, a compressor in this size range uses 600 to 800 watts...if it works Id use it.

Harry
Let's cross our fingers I can actually get the thing going! We'll find the answer this weekend.

Thanks again!
Lisa
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Old 06-27-2008, 11:28 AM   #20
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I thought I'd jump onto this thread instead of starting a new one.

We have a 1982 13' Burro with just an ice box. I really want to take that out and add a fridge. What are my options? I've only found 2 models that I believe would work and 2 that are deaper and not sure if they will work:

Dometic:

RM 2193 Americana - I know this one will fit
http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/RV-Products/refrigerators/Refrigerator-Product-Display/?productdataid=71045

DM 4223 Americana - This one is a little deeper so it's bigger but I think it will still fit correct?
http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/RV-Products/refrigerators/Refrigerator-Product-Display/?productdataid=71043


Norcold:

323T - This one will fit and is similar to the 2193 above
http://www.thetford.com/Home/Products/NorcoldRefrigeratorsHome/323T/tabid/209/Default.aspx

N300/N302 - This is similar to the 4223 above so it may be too deep
http://www.thetford.com/Home/Products/NorcoldRefrigeratorsHome/N300/tabid/208/Default.aspx


Are there any other options? I can't remember what the dimensions of the cabinet area is so I'm not sure if the deeper ones will fit or not. Anyone out there have one of the deeper ones in a Burro from the same time period as mine?

Thanks for the help!

Rob
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