Goop on rivets! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2014, 02:32 PM   #15
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,418
I use a dab of 3/M 5200 on the shank of the rivet just before I put it in the hole. The excess slides up under the head of the rivet. After popping the rivet I put a dab of the same sealant in the hole where the shank of the rivet pops out. Then I snap on the cap. Done carefully you wont see any sealant. Replace the top cap every 5 years and you wont have issues with rivets. The plastic caps and bases are not UV stable. The cap is sacrificial once it fails, it exposes the base. Once the base fails the rivet goes loose and lets water in. Take an afternoon every few years and replace the top cap and all will be fine unless you are off road adventurous shaking everything about. Then you will be replacing loose rivets as soon as the acorn nuts start popping off.
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:21 AM   #16
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
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I am curious about the use of the 5200. I thought that it was a permanent adhesive and extremely strong bond. I believe Robert Johans uses it to adhere wood blocks to the bare interior of FG to hang cabinets. Would not the 5200 literally make changing rivets out a real challenge? I'm just thinking out loud as I want to replace some rivets and am considering doing something similar but would want to remove the rivets at a later date if needed. The 3M 4200 states" Formulated to allow for disassembly of parts". Has anyone used the 4200???
Comments appreciated.
Thanks

Applications:
3MTM Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4200 is designed to allow disassembly of wood and fiberglass parts
bonded together. If a permanent bond is desired, use 3MTM Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 or Marine
Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200.
Typical bonding and sealing applications include:
-Fiberglass deck to fiberglass hull
-Wood to fiberglass
-Portholes
-Deck fittings
-Moldings
-Trunk joints
-Between struts and planking
-Stern joints
Sealing of:
-Some plastics (test before assembly)
-Glass
-Metals
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:37 AM   #17
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Name: kevin
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 170
4200 fine 5200 = wrong

You are entirely correct. Every once in a while I would love to delete somebody's response because it is just plain wrong. 5200 is permanent. Installing rivets with 5200 is going to create a big headache down the road. I have used the 4200 to glue on my water intake port and vent fan port. Its good stuff.

If you are replacing rivets I recommend using stainless steel hardware, looks better, last longer, seals better.
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:55 AM   #18
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinScamps View Post
You are entirely correct. Every once in a while I would love to delete somebody's response because it is just plain wrong. 5200 is permanent. Installing rivets with 5200 is going to create a big headache down the road. I have used the 4200 to glue on my water intake port and vent fan port. Its good stuff.

If you are replacing rivets I recommend using stainless steel hardware, looks better, last longer, seals better.
Wow - thanks for that tidbit! I am about a month away from this project so made this adjustment in my "need list" to use the 4200 instead of the 5200. Thanks folks!

Richard
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