Goop on rivets! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-09-2014, 10:34 AM   #1
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 37
Goop on rivets!

Hello everyone!

Browsing through the topics I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for regarding rivets and avoiding leaks. On our 76' Boler the previous owner put sealing goop (the kind you use on the roof of a house) on every single rivet on the roof (not below belly band however).

Wondering how necessary this is? I'm asking because soon I'll be sanding everything down in prep for painting the whole egg (Brightside woot!). I've looked at many pics of other eggs and cannot see any evidence of others doing the same thing with gooping their rivets.

So, once I've re-painted - should I re-seal every rivet on the top half of the egg again? Hoping it doesn't look unsightly as currently the goop is a bit discoloured and looks bad.

Or... any alternatives suggested?

Thanks so my everyone
Richard

PS: I used Tech Steel for the first time last night to fill some holes and cracking. Anyone else have good results from Tech Steel for minor fibre repair?
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:54 AM   #2
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Name: J Mac
Trailer: 17b Escape
British Columbia
Posts: 125
I recently replace a vent on my roof top. The rivets were sealed. It's not a case of the rivet rusting (they are aluminum) it's a case, I think, of sealing the hole after the rivet is in place.
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:19 PM   #3
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
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Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
I recently replace a vent on my roof top. The rivets were sealed. It's not a case of the rivet rusting (they are aluminum) it's a case, I think, of sealing the hole after the rivet is in place.
Ah okay so the rivets can leak then? That's my main concern.. that if I remove the goop, repaint, and then leave as is that they could leak. Just mystified that I don't see other Boler's with goop sealant on the rivets.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:48 PM   #4
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
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I suspect there might be one or two out there with rivets shemeged with goop. Mine certainly was. Are the rivets tight? In my case many that held the awning rail down had pulled and been stressed over years and leaked like crazy. I have recent thread re our Norseman awning. You can always dip new rivets in high quality caulk first.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:36 PM   #5
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Name: Ted
Trailer: (Dark side)Crossroads Now
Glade Valley, North Carolina
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Just last summer I went through and replaced every rivet on my Scamp. I was the 2nd owner. I had a couple that started leaking and after checking I had several that were loose. Sooooooo, I replaced everyone. Purchased new rivets, plastic washers and snap caps from Scamp. My wife was the rivet size engineer and acorn nut assembler. Took a couple evenings to replace all of them, but I now know that their right. Did the same thing with the window gaskets. They were so stopped up from mud daubers the windows wouldn't drain. PO had been sick and hadn't used it in two years. It sat under a metal carport all that time which is good for the camper but making a great home for the daubers. Purchased new seals from HEHR for the Scamp. Removed cleaned and replaced all windows with the new gaskets.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:05 PM   #6
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Appreciate the info everyone, and I agree Papa T, the best way to know they are done right is when you've done it yourself. Hard to say how good they are since they are covered in the sealant goop but I'm thinking it won't hurt to put some on after the paint job is done. Better safe than sorry ;-)

Thank you all!
Richard
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:36 PM   #7
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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Sealant does NOT mean silicone. THAT crap should never touch the exterior of an all molded towable.

THE SILICON HATER = ME!
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:28 PM   #8
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Thanks Donna D! Yes the goop is quite pliable so pretty sure it's same type of stuff for ceiling nail holes on asphalt roofs. Hope so at least!

Side note: I'm replacing all my inlet panels (power,water..etc) on service side and RV advised butyl tape for initial seal followed by RV rated sealant instead of silicone. Thankful for this advise before the fact ;-)

Richard
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:44 PM   #9
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Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Sealant does NOT mean silicone. THAT crap should never touch the exterior of an all molded towable.

THE SILICON HATER = ME!
X2!!!!!!!
Says the guy who redid his belly band in "30 year"fresh silicone! Maybe I'll get fired from the job site
Not looking forward to replacing the roof vent and more silicone scraping. PO must have used at least 1/2 a tube covering whatever was used before...
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:15 PM   #10
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
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X2!!!!!!!

Says the guy who redid his belly band in "30 year"fresh silicone! Maybe I'll get fired from the job site

Not looking forward to replacing the roof vent and more silicone scraping. PO must have used at least 1/2 a tube covering whatever was used before...

Curious now! Does everyone have a product they prefer to use in place of the evil silicone? :-) Since we are brand new owners we want to do it right the first time!

Thanks!
Richard
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:31 PM   #11
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Name: kevin
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Colorado
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Rivets

Don't bother sealing over the rivets. Rivets don't last anyways. If the rivet is in good condition it won't leak. Feel free to use a little dab of 3M 402 in the holes when you are replacing rivets. Gooping up the outside of your trailer is going to look messy no matter what you use. If you are worried how the trailer looks, drill out all the rivets and replace with stainless steel bolts with finishing washers. They look much better and are a much more permanent, never leak fix. I did it since most of my rivets were falling out anyways.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:01 PM   #12
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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I used a small amount of the butyl tape used to seal windows, vents and such.

Placed a wafer made by pinching a little ball of butyl tape under the snap cap base that the rivet goes through. Essentially made a washer that was squished as the rivet tightened. Then used a toothpick to wipe off any excess after I put the snap cap on.

I Butyl tape. Does not stick, shrink or harden to the point it won't come right off and it conforms to shape to create a good seal.

Sounds like your camper had no snap caps on the rivets. Mine didn't either when I got it.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:00 AM   #13
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Boler
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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
I used a small amount of the butyl tape used to seal windows, vents and such.

Placed a wafer made by pinching a little ball of butyl tape under the snap cap base that the rivet goes through. Essentially made a washer that was squished as the rivet tightened. Then used a toothpick to wipe off any excess after I put the snap cap on.

I Butyl tape. Does not stick, shrink or harden to the point it won't come right off and it conforms to shape to create a good seal.

Sounds like your camper had no snap caps on the rivets. Mine didn't either when I got it.
Yes, I think you are right mine didn't have them. Do Boler's have a standard size of rivet to use when replacing them all? Looking them over.. some have raised.. some are flat. Looks like a project WELL worth undertaking!
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:01 AM   #14
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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Different items use different rivets on a scamp. I started this thread when I started replacing mine on an older scamp and others have added to it.

Scamp Rivet Size List

Boler & Scamp may not be identical sizes. Someone with Boler experience might look at this list and post any differences they know of....

The rivet and acorn nut size problem I ran into has a solution on the second page of that thread. Might prove useful.

Scamp store sells a snap cap kit that has enough large and small snap caps to do a whole camper. Might want to call scamp and see if you can get it shipped US Postal it's cheaper than the online store shipping. One can purchase snap caps other places online also.
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