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04-14-2016, 07:48 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: Two 13 ft Scamps
Posts: 258
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Got my new Scamp yesterday and have questions.....
Here is my first of what is sure to be many questions... I have never had a 12 volt system in my trailers before and now that I do, and it powers A LOT of stuff... my questions is, what recharges the battery?
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04-14-2016, 07:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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The converter, that black/brown box you see near the floor. But, it needs to be connected to shore power to convert the 120V to a 12V and send that juice not only to your battery to keep it charged, but also to run the various 12v lights, fans, and appliances.
If you have your 7 way set up to charge the battery, it is also charged by your TV's alternator going down the road.
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04-14-2016, 07:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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When you plug into 115VAC the converter charges your battery. When driving down the road the tow vehicle provides some charge current. If you have the Progressive Dynamics converter I recommend getting a Charge Wizard it makes your converter a smart charger and really saves your battery. It cost about $30.
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04-14-2016, 08:00 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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I know folks don't always like to hear this? But, there's an owner's manual that covers most everything. Not saying it's novel quality bedtime reading, but a good, focused read through is highly recommended. You can also use it as a reference book, re-reading any section that seems applicable to a given situation that might arise. In Scamp's case, it isn't nearly like reading anything akin to what the automobile's owner's manual is like.
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04-14-2016, 10:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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You're spot-on bp! And mine also came with a DVD to watch. New owners REALLY need to read and watch the DVD the first thing! Most basic questions are already answered in your manual and on the DVD. I actually did BOTH before ever picking up my new Scamp in 2010. All of the above information was online.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfick
I know folks don't always like to hear this? But, there's an owner's manual that covers most everything. Not saying it's novel quality bedtime reading, but a good, focused read through is highly recommended. You can also use it as a reference book, re-reading any section that seems applicable to a given situation that might arise. In Scamp's case, it isn't nearly like reading anything akin to what the automobile's owner's manual is like.
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04-14-2016, 11:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Ann
Trailer: 2016 Scamp 13'
Washington
Posts: 120
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Newest SCAMP Manual in the Document Center
Just letting you know that the newest SCAMP Manual is now available in the 'Document Center'.
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04-14-2016, 11:56 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 353
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I guess I ought to read it
Being it's our 3rd Scamp....I guess maybe I should read it
__________________
A three egg family..
(2) Big Green Eggs for cooking..(1) Egg for camping
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04-15-2016, 12:34 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillE
Being it's our 3rd Scamp....I guess maybe I should read it
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Come on Bill, guys don't read instructions, everybody knows that.....are you saying you're ready to turn in your man card .
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04-15-2016, 04:46 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Two 13 ft Scamps
Posts: 258
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I am planning on reading all of my owners manuals (which came in several manila envelopes and various folders) but wanted to get this one question out of the way before I ran down my battery.
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04-15-2016, 05:01 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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It's all good Jaye.
No worries. Just wanted to put the use of the manual as a reference thing back into our thinking. Sometimes, well, at least I'm able to forget about that thing. The question was fine and hope you were helped.
When we got our first Scamp, even after years of owning other RV's, some of things were just a bit myterious at first. Consider yourself very normal. LOL Best regards.
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04-15-2016, 05:59 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2014 16 scamp side dinette/Rav4 V6 Tow pkg.
Pennsylvania
Posts: 578
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One thing that is not in the manual, there is plug that needs to be plugged in to operate the converter. Sometimes it can be rattled out and the converter is off and will not charge your battery. I check it every time i go on a trip and when i get to where i want to be. It cost me some bucks and pride when the rv guy said your converter was not plugged in when i took it in with a dead battery. Just a heads up. Carl
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04-15-2016, 06:58 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfick
The converter, that black/brown box you see near the floor...
... If you have your 7 way set up to charge the battery, it is also charged by your TV's alternator going down the road.
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1. (In my Scamp 16) the black/brown box near the floor is NOT the converter. Its the power distribution Center (PDC or fuse box). The converter is a silver metal box under the port side dinette seat and plugs into the 120 volt AC circuit on the PDC.
2. Big "IF" there. I don't have numbers but would venture to guess that the majority of tugs are not wired to charge the trailer's battery through the umbilical cord.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Pa
One thing that is not in the manual, there is plug that needs to be plugged in to operate the converter. Sometimes it can be rattled out and the converter is off and will not charge your battery. ...
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Good tip and one that is not known by many people, however on my Scamp that plug (into the PDC) is not accessible. To get to it you have to take the four screws out and pull the PDC away from the cabinet. Even then its tight. I have not had the problem of the plug coming out but if I do, it will be secured in some way that it will not happen again (or I will hardwire it).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest
... If you have the Progressive Dynamics converter I recommend getting a Charge Wizard it makes your converter a smart charger and really saves your battery. It cost about $30.
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I concur if your converter is the cheaper one that Scamp uses (the better Progressive Dynamics converter has the same circuitry already built in.
I have the Charge Wizard but since I have been doing all battery charging via solar, I am considering putting it up for sale.
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04-15-2016, 07:38 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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[QUOTE=gordon2;581799]1. (In my Scamp 16) the black/brown box near the floor is NOT the converter. Its the power distribution Center (PDC or fuse box). The converter is a silver metal box under the port side dinette seat and plugs into the 120 volt AC circuit on the PDC.
Good to know. I'll check that out on our new 16' this fall. That's a different arrangement than the 13' that we've had, for sure. The OP also has two 13'ers.
2. Big "IF" there. I don't have numbers but would venture to guess that the majority of tugs are not wired to charge the trailer's battery through the umbilical cord.
I'd have no way of knowing, no way at all. I only know that we choose not to send power back to the camper off the TV. A personal choice. I had the sense we were perhaps in the minority, but again, who knows.
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04-15-2016, 07:47 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfick
...
I'd have no way of knowing, no way at all. I only know that we choose not to send power back to the camper off the TV. A personal choice. I had the sense we were perhaps in the minority, but again, who knows.
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I'm with you... I actually put in the charge line when I wired up my tug. Since it was a PIA to wire the van I did not want to do it twice.
But I never put the fuse in and so far have not seen the need to.
If you do have the charge line, then (as mentioned on this forum about a million times), you should disconnect the tug from trailer when parked for longer periods (esp if fridge or something is running) -OR- have a battery isolator installed. The object is not make sure the trailer does not draw down the tugs battery thereby leaving you with a tug that won't start. For me, it was easier just to leave the charge line fuse out and not have charging when towing.
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04-15-2016, 08:37 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Steve Robison
Trailer: Scamp
New Jersey
Posts: 209
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What if a Scamp doesn't have a converter? Would it be easier to just hook up a smart charger to the 120v then run the charger wires to a 12v fuse box and then hook up the battery to an empty connection in the fuse box?
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04-17-2016, 06:18 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 721
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For those who don't have the 12 volt lead active on the 7 pin plug.
Federal law requires when a trailer is equipped with brakes that the breakaway feature be operational and further says it needs to be sufficient to operate for 15 minutes.
For those who don't realize it the breakaway brakes on campers are usually powered by the trailer's battery.
State laws specify when brakes are required but federal says if you have them they must be operational and have a breakaway switch.
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04-17-2016, 07:03 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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Isn't this more likely a state requirement and isn't there a possibility that most states require this beginning at the 3000 pound trailer weight level? Truly just asking here, as I'm not completely sure of the legalities and provisions and how and when they apply.
This is what is suggested here: http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/doc/20400.pdf
AAA lists each state's requirements here, but makes no reference to any Federal statute. http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/
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04-17-2016, 07:27 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfick
2. Big "IF" there. I don't have numbers but would venture to guess that the majority of tugs are not wired to charge the trailer's battery through the umbilical cord.
I'd have no way of knowing, no way at all. I only know that we choose not to send power back to the camper off the TV. A personal choice. I had the sense we were perhaps in the minority, but again, who knows.
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I would suggest that the majority do have their tugs set up to charge the battery while underway. Always nice to arrive at a camping spot with a fully charged battery.
I would also be really surprised that even if a buyer was to tell Scamp they will not be charging the battery via the tug while underway if Scamp did not wire the trailer for it regardless. All one has to do is not use the option is not install a charge line on their tug.
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04-17-2016, 07:29 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfick
Isn't this more likely a state requirement and isn't there a possibility that most states require this beginning at the 3000 pound trailer weight level? Truly just asking here, as I'm not completely sure of the legalities and provisions and how and when they apply.
]
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Here regardless of weight of trailer if it has brakes its suppose to have a break away switch.
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04-17-2016, 07:43 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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Carol, I'd have no way of knowing what BC requires. This is what AAA puts up on their site. I also have no way of knowing whether their info is accurate either.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
Independent trailer braking system required where licensed weight of a trailer (excluding tow dollies) exceeds 1,400 kg or over 50% of licensed weight of towing vehicle; not required with motorhome towing with a towbar a motor vehicle weighing less than 2,000 kg that is also less than 40% of motorhome GVWR.
Tow dolly braking systems are required where the aggregate net weight of the tow dolly and the GVW of the towed vehicle exceeds 1,400 kg except where the GVWR on the towing vehicle is greater than the combined net weight of the tow dolly, the GVW of the motor vehicle being towed and the GVW of the towing vehicle.
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