Grease gun question - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-17-2016, 04:57 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I don't understand what brake adjustment or inspection has to do with repacking the bearings. They are separate components. Normally one would do both while up on a jack, but you don't have to. You can check the brakes without doing the bearings. No?
You can adjust the brakes without disassembly, but you must remove the brake drum/hub in order to inspect the brakes.
The outer bearing falls out when the hub is removed and the inner bearing comes out with the hub and held in only by the seal.Seems like a good time to repack while you have them out, but I guess you really don't have to.
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:14 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Floyd, I'm not sure why you think I came to the conclusion that You have somehow seen EZ-Lube as a substitute for Brake inspection and hand repack; never said or implied that. I was alluding to the fact that you think E-Z Lube is great while others, including me, do not view it as particularly useful and potentially detrimental.
I think you know me well enough to know that I wouldn't infer anything from your posts. If anything, I find your refusal to admit (or at least you haven't admitted it here) that the use of the E-Z Lube could potentially displace the seal and contaminate brake components. And I repeat "could potentially," not "will." Should this happen, I know for a fact that you have the "adequate credentials" to correct the situation. But the real question is does everyone who sees your unconditional support of E-Z Lube have the same credentials and/or the ability to correct the situation. And are they going to be happy spending the money to replace parts unintentionally or unnecessarily contaminated by runaway grease.
My only point is that people on this forum should be exposed to the possible drawbacks of using the E-Z Lube, even if those drawbacks are remote, and not just a glowing post that could lead them to believe E-Z Lube has no potential to be problematic.



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While my support of EZ-Lube has clearly been conditional upon the scheduled use of brake inspection/hand repack, it seems to me that your condemnation is pretty much unconditional and certainly an adequate counterpoint!
Those who read this thread will certainly be exposed to a more than sufficient variety of opinions and I trust them to draw their own conclusions, after all,there can hardly be a more astute group on the planet than fiberglass RV owners!
I have known those who could demolish an anvil with a rubber mallet, so be assured that it is not my motive to encourage the incorrigible. I hope your concern is unfounded.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:45 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
While my support of EZ-Lube has clearly been conditional upon the scheduled use of brake inspection/hand repack, it seems to me that your condemnation is pretty much unconditional and certainly an adequate counterpoint!
Those who read this thread will certainly be exposed to a more than sufficient variety of opinions and I trust them to draw their own conclusions, after all,there can hardly be a more astute group on the planet than fiberglass RV owners!
I have known those who could demolish an anvil with a rubber mallet, so be assured that it is not my motive to encourage the incorrigible. I hope your concern is unfounded.

I, too, hope my concern is unfounded. Perhaps my first post was overly strong. I like your anvil/rubber mallet comment as it is true. While I will never use the E-Z Lube myself, those who do should realize the potential pitfalls. And I cannot argue that everyone should draw their own conclusions.


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Old 03-17-2016, 07:06 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Hey Pat. As a Disclaimer, stating what I do is by NO means a suggestion to others on how they should maintain their trailers. If in doubt, go by the manufacturer's recommendation.

But for me? I've been around mechanics (am a former machinist) ALL my life. Keep in mind, my Scamp 13' weighs only 1800lbs on a 2200 lb rated axle and I do NOT load it down traveling. When I'm not traveling, I keep my Scamp off the ground on jacks, spin the wheels regularly year-round. I take my Scamp out in the spring and pull for a min. 15-20 miles at apx 65 mph steady. I have an exit ramp on a 4-lane where I pull off....get out and check the temps. I do NOT use my trailer brakes when stopping to check the hubs as you WILL get a higher reading!! And this can throw you for a loop! I also check for "play" by placing my hands one on each side of the wheel and try to shake it back and forth. Vigilance is EVERYTHING on anything/any vehicle.

My hubs still run the same temps as when the Scamp was brand new in 2010 and 10000 miles ago from Scamp. I did adjust my brakes last year.

Again, this is just MY opinion and I dont recommend it for others. But do you pull the front wheels (or rear wheels on front wheel drive) vehicles and check the bearings every year regardless of the few or many miles you put on it?? That's basically what the axle makers are saying.

I'm not saying whether to grease through the EZ Lube regularly or not. Just dont know without thousands of miles of tests whether what is 100% right or wrong. Many feel to pull, clean, inspect, replace, repack their bearings EVERY year. I do not and will not unless I have a trailer that I KNOW is running borderline. If I have that trailer, I dont want it for long. Mine has built-in safety margins on both the axle and tires as you can see. My tires are rated at 1326 each. I have apx 900 at full load MAX!

Good luck and do you what you feel you should do.... I've seen/heard of some doing the maintenance job, and they get the bearings too tight going back together and REALLY have trouble. So, regardless..... KEEP A WATCH ON YOUR HUB TEMPS AT ALL TIMES!! I spot check mine at every fill-up.
Thanks Darrel for responding . I pull with a Ford F-250 . It was what I had . I think to see what condition bearings are in , I will do now . Kind of like sensors for tanks really don't read right but I know what I can do now . I have felt hubs when I stopped and they were not hot at all . It was a long trip last one . Thankyou again for the advice . Pat
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:40 PM   #61
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Popcorn anyone?
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:51 PM   #62
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This thread is almost as exciting as Tires and Towing threads get
LOL Yup just waiting for someone to ask what the OP is pulling the trailer with
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:18 PM   #63
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:31 PM   #64
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Whewwww....Ooookkkk....Rzrbrn.... ole Tennessee buddy....(what part of Tenn? I'm from "Middle Tenn.")

Now about that grease gun....

Choosing a grease gun is just too tough a question for the group as you can tell. Think I'll just go on it.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:04 PM   #65
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Thanks, Donna, I'd love some popcorn!

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Old 03-17-2016, 11:38 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Hey Pat. As a Disclaimer, stating what I do is by NO means a suggestion to others on how they should maintain their trailers. If in doubt, go by the manufacturer's recommendation.

But for me? I've been around mechanics (am a former machinist) ALL my life. Keep in mind, my Scamp 13' weighs only 1800lbs on a 2200 lb rated axle and I do NOT load it down traveling. When I'm not traveling, I keep my Scamp off the ground on jacks, spin the wheels regularly year-round. I take my Scamp out in the spring and pull for a min. 15-20 miles at apx 65 mph steady. I have an exit ramp on a 4-lane where I pull off....get out and check the temps. I do NOT use my trailer brakes when stopping to check the hubs as you WILL get a higher reading!! And this can throw you for a loop! I also check for "play" by placing my hands one on each side of the wheel and try to shake it back and forth. Vigilance is EVERYTHING on anything/any vehicle.

My hubs still run the same temps as when the Scamp was brand new in 2010 and 10000 miles ago from Scamp. I did adjust my brakes last year.

Again, this is just MY opinion and I dont recommend it for others. But do you pull the front wheels (or rear wheels on front wheel drive) vehicles and check the bearings every year regardless of the few or many miles you put on it?? That's basically what the axle makers are saying.

I'm not saying whether to grease through the EZ Lube regularly or not. Just dont know without thousands of miles of tests whether what is 100% right or wrong. Many feel to pull, clean, inspect, replace, repack their bearings EVERY year. I do not and will not unless I have a trailer that I KNOW is running borderline. If I have that trailer, I dont want it for long. Mine has built-in safety margins on both the axle and tires as you can see. My tires are rated at 1326 each. I have apx 900 at full load MAX!

Good luck and do you what you feel you should do.... I've seen/heard of some doing the maintenance job, and they get the bearings too tight going back together and REALLY have trouble. So, regardless..... KEEP A WATCH ON YOUR HUB TEMPS AT ALL TIMES!! I spot check mine at every fill-up.
Since joining these forums , belong to Escape too . Why when forums members are asking for suggestions or help , there are some who for whatever reason , bully , make fun and really turn people off . If they don't want to help or offer suggestions why do they have anything to say at all ? It is dishearting and a lot of people go away . Thought these forums were to be helpful . Thankyou Darrel taking your suggestions under advisement. Pat
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Old 03-18-2016, 02:12 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by ZachO View Post
Hey while we're at it...what are the correct size sockets for pressing seals/bearings in & out?
You do not need a socket to do either. You can just tap the bearing out with the hub laying down on the floor. To reinstall the bearing just use a piece of flat metal over it and tap it back in with a hammer.

The only special tools I have for doing the bearings is a grease repacking tool - it makes the job much easier/cleaner. The one I have looks something like this:
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YA470B-Blue-Point-BEARING-PACKER-030.jpg  
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:59 AM   #68
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You do not need a socket to do either. You can just tap the bearing out with the hub laying down on the floor. To reinstall the bearing just use a piece of flat metal over it and tap it back in with a hammer.
Carol ment to say seal not bearing. The bearing will be loose. The seal is press fit. Too much pop corn, perhaps.

I have several tools I find useful. A good quality hydraulic floor jack. A breaker bar for loosening lug nuts. A speed wrench for quickly removing lug nuts. A socket that fits the castle nut. A torque wrench. And a piece of 2" PVC pipe to drive in the grease cap. I'm not sure what Roger was referring to. Perhaps he is using a socket to drive the new seal into the hub? I use a board and a mallet. Raz
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:10 AM   #69
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Ok thanks.

So if the bearings are "loose", I guess the old socket that matches the size of the outer bearing diameter wouldn't be necessary.



Pat I think mostly people are just having fun with the fact that we can debate such a seemingly simple, clear-cut topic so much. There are a few other topics like this (like the correct tire pressure for trailer tires) that you would think are very simple (and actually are) But yet there are pages and pages and pages of discussion.

People are making fun of our tendencies to do this, not of anyone specifically in this topic and it's not in my opinion mean spirited.
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:16 AM   #70
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Ok thanks.

I know with other bearings, they are typically driven in & out, and what you do if you don't want to buy a special tool made just for that size bearing or seal is use a socket from a socket wrench set which is the same size as the outer diameter of the bearing, and drive it in or out using that and a hammer.

But if the bearings are "loose", then I guess it wouldn't be necessary. A flat piece of metal would serve the same purpose, but sort of be a "special tool", I guess, in the sense that you're carrying around something extra for just that job...where a socket has multiple uses. Unless you use that piece of metal for something else.

Pat I think mostly people are just having fun with the fact that we can debate such a seemingly simple, clear-cut topic so much. There are a few other topics like this (like the correct tire pressure for trailer tires) that you would think are very simple (and actually are) But yet there are pages and pages and pages of discussion.

People are making fun of our tendencies to do this, not of anyone specifically in this topic and it's not in my opinion mean spirited.
Dexter talks about driving out the bearing race when bearing replacement is required but they sell new hubs with bearings and races installed so there is no need. They also sell complete backing plates cheaper than the individual brake parts.
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