Grey water drainage backup question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-14-2014, 04:38 PM   #1
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Grey water drainage backup question

I tried searching this forum for a similar post, but for whatever reason, the advanced search filters seemed to be a little relaxed about sticking to criteria today.

I have a 1998 Scamp 13' with a grey water outlet port that hooks to a garden hose. My problem is that it keeps backing up or vapor locking where I have to wiggle the hose outside every time to make it drain. My RV site manager purchased an adapter to connect the garden hose to the larger RV dump ports, but it still backs up. It's becoming VERY frustrating and hardly worth the hassle.

Does anyone have suggestions or recommendations on how to set this thing up to ease the drainage process? I don't have a bathroom or toilet, so the only grey water out is from the sink.

Thanks in advance!!

Katie
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:49 PM   #2
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You need to build a venturi. Think of a pop bottle turned upside down.
It's hard to empty.
You can make one out of pvc fittings. Looks like the fitting you use to fill waterbeds.
Do don't have time tonight to post a picture but, I will tomorrow.
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:53 PM   #3
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If you are sure that nothing is impeding the water from flowing then you need to rig up some type of a vent. Without a vent the water flows so fast that the air in your drain line can't get out of the way fast enough causing the water to back up. You will notice that RV's, and homes for that matter, that have "permanent" plumbing installed always have a line that runs to the roof for the air to escape. Obviously that is probably not an option for you so you may need to find an under counter vent at your local Lowes, Home Depot, etc. These are small vents that just let the air escape so the grey water can run without having to push the air out of the way.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:04 PM   #4
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First I would make sure your drain hose under the sink is not kinked or the trap is stopped up. There may be grease, crud or trash build up at the barb inside the hose wall connector. I would try sticking a wire in the drain hole and wiggle it around while running warm water through the drain with a bucket on the ground. The plastic wall fittings and drain trap get brittle and can easily break off so be careful.
Warning:
Wear your PPE.
Do not use hot water or you may burn yourself.
Ensure someone is around so if you fall in your bucket you won't drown.
The drain plug could be a choking hazard.
Make sure you are in a well lighted and ventilated area.
I can not be held responsible. I am not giving advice, these actions that I may take.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:43 PM   #5
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Another thing to look at is the diameter of the drain hose. Get the largest diameter hose you can find. I might even try buying large diameter bulk tubing and put a hose fitting on the end.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:28 PM   #6
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With the advice from you lovely people, google, and a bit of brainstorming at my local hardware store, it's fixedClick image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1413332907.467667.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	105.0 KB
ID:	77655!! It merely needed an air vent. Now it's running smoothly and I'm stoked!! I'm getting a little better at this full timing thing!! Thanks everyone!!


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Old 10-15-2014, 06:05 AM   #7
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Very creative!!!!! Glad it's working fine.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:32 AM   #8
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Not to throw gray water on your party, but that drain fitting is not designed to hold the weight and leverage of your air vent and, if someone doesn't first run into it and break it off, it will break off on it's own.

And, if you get an obstruction in the drain hose, it will spill your gray water on the ground because the open end is below the level; of the sink drain. Not a good thing (as Martha might say!)

You can get a standard "air-gap" vent and put that inside and you won't risk damage to your outside fitting. Or just a "T" fitting and a short length of tubing under the sink can take care of it as well. Just be sure that the open end of the tubing is at or above sink level.
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:05 AM   #9
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Good post for info. I thought you were using a short piece of hose going into an open container. In your case with a long hose you will need a vent if you have a trap under your sink drain. On some older trailers traps were not installed and the inside drain hose connected a straight tail piece below the sink. In that case no extra vent should be needed.
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:52 AM   #10
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Does someone have a picture of what they're talking about as far as what it should look like under the sink? I'm concerned about the weight and torque of my makeshift vent on the attachment, and as someone kindly pointed out, because it's below the level of the sink it will spill out if the drain backs up.

Here's a picture of the connection below the sink.Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1413384653.466438.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	86.4 KB
ID:	77692

That clear tubing runs straight to the drain outlet. Is that white section the "trap" that you're referring to?

I'd love to have a more permanent and appropriate fix, but I have no point of reference with most of this stuff and therefore have no idea what I'm actually looking for!

Thanks for all the help!!


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Old 10-15-2014, 10:16 AM   #11
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The white thing under the sink is the trap and what you have looks OK. On your outside contraption how about re plumbing it to be less stressful on the connection. Turn the T around connect the single side to the trailer, point the hose connection to the ground and extend your vent tube up to the belly band and figure a way to temp. attach it to the trailer. If it is all done in white PVC it should not be too noticeable. They also make a vacuum breakers for household sinks but they also have to be above the drain. I think turning the T around will really help if you don't have elevation issues.
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:48 AM   #12
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I had the same thing happen to me recently. There was some gunk build up in the trap. I cleaned it out with a piece of wire and all is well. I did buy a replacement trap to put in the spare parts locker.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:42 AM   #13
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Name: Katie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
The white thing under the sink is the trap and what you have looks OK. On your outside contraption how about re plumbing it to be less stressful on the connection. Turn the T around connect the single side to the trailer, point the hose connection to the ground and extend your vent tube up to the belly band and figure a way to temp. attach it to the trailer. If it is all done in white PVC it should not be too noticeable. They also make a vacuum breakers for household sinks but they also have to be above the drain. I think turning the T around will really help if you don't have elevation issues.
Eddie

Thanks Eddie for the feedback! I reworked the setup to try and minimize the torque as best I could. The connection that hooks directly to the output valve rotates so there shouldn't be any rotational torque on it but there will still be vertical torque. I may even try to attach this contraption to the distal end of the drain system where the hose hooks to the large diameter RV drain and simply apply a tall enough piece of PVC to be above the belly band of the trailer. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1413391352.184518.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	115.3 KB
ID:	77694Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1413391365.443045.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	110.2 KB
ID:	77695


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Old 10-15-2014, 11:44 AM   #14
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Here's a pic of the distal end with the adapterClick image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1413391470.721535.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	248.1 KB
ID:	77696


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