Hang 16 lbs on a skinny inner wall? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-19-2005, 11:27 AM   #15
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One of the good things about using VHB is the weight distribution. Stresses aren't concentrated in a couple spots.
If you're thinking about using VHB you might want to try and find a local 3M rep. One of the links about should lead you to a local rep. If you talk nice to the rep he might even be able to get enough sample material to do the job.
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Old 11-24-2005, 07:28 PM   #16
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In the category of ďthe same thing, but differentĒ, the top of the inside pull handle on the entrance door pulled out on my last trip. The pull handle, separate from the actual door handle, is screwed into the door. I donít slam the door, but rather pull hard and quickly and it catches the lock.

I was pretty distressed. I popped the plastic screw cover and found a fairly long wood/machine screw. I screwed it back in and it seemed solid. I was afraid it had stripped the hole but apparently it had only backed out. If I were building the trailer, there would be a wood backing glassed inside the door for better (longer) grip.

Because of that incident and this thread Iíve been looking more closely at attachment schemes for hollow walls.

The hollow wall anchor is still an option, although Iíd have been happier to find one in stainless steel as itís a potentially damp area. Still looking. Also, the ones with beefier bolts seem to be pretty long. I figure I have about an inch of back space. They do make fairly short hollow wall anchors in the smaller bolt size.

The rivet nuts are still attractive to me but I feel the crush strength of fiberglass is not that great so I wonder if I would enlarge the hole in the fiberglass while trying to collapse the back of the rivet. They make a polynut rivet that has a plastic sleeve that does most of the swelling but Iím concerned about the pull out force. Good for hanging a heater on the wall Iím sure, but a door handle? I believe they come in both steel and aluminum sleeves. I suppose aluminum would be okay since there are (much smaller) aluminum rivets all over the trailer. It does seem to need a special rivet gun (of course Iím always open to a new tool). Lastly, they tend to be fairly large bolt sizes. I have a limit to the size I can make the countersink in the door handle.

Oh well, the search continues.
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
...does seem to need a special rivet gun (of course Iím always open to a new tool)...
My manual rivet nut insertion tool works like a regular blind rivet puller, but instead of jaws to grip the rivet mandrel it has a threaded stud to go into the nut. It looks like this one: Wicks - RIVNUT TOOL 8-32, 10-24, 10-32. As with rivets, there are a selection of nosepieces with different screw sizes which interchange on the same tool. Compared to power tools, this is a cheap device, which could possibly be justified by a single use if it did just what's needed.

Aircraft Spruce and Specialty - Tools - Rivnut Tools and the Wicks page shows some strange tools for this purpose. I think the weird wedge-based tool at the top of the Aircraft Spruce page is about the price I paid for my squeeze-handle style tool (approx $20 Cdn, or maybe more, but it came with a bunch of nuts).

Today I found this interesting link: Pulling Rivnuts without a Rivnut Tool I have not tried this, but at a quick glance it makes sense to me.

Quote:
...Lastly, they tend to be fairly large bolt sizes.
I don't know what other people consider "fairly large bolt sizes", but my tool has sizes including #8, #10, and 1/4" (and one or two more). I find that the smaller thread sizes don't have enough threads in the nut to work well in aluminum: that is, it is too easy to strip the rivet nut threads by squeezing the tool just a bit too hard when setting the rivet nut. I have even had this problem with the 1/4" size, but the solution in some cases is just to use steel instead of aluminum.

The large required hole size is a problem with almost any hollow-wall fastener, as the hole needs to clear the fastener thread plus some more working space for the rest of the hardware - in this case, the nut thread plus the surrounding wall of the nut body.

I have only installed one item in the Boler with these fasteners; I bought it for an automotive job.
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:28 AM   #18
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If you are still thinking about the tape, the link above for Aircraft Spruse and Specialty will be useful. They sell it.

It is across the street from where I work. I have walked over there and bought it off the shelf before.

OK, on particularly lazy days, I drive across the parking lot....

I also see samples on eBay all the time
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Old 11-30-2005, 03:15 AM   #19
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FWIW, here's a few photos of the rivet nuts. The front shows the styles that came in the sample kit with a 3/16" dian x 1/2" (uncompressed) rivet for comparison.

From left to right is 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, two 1/4-20 and a rivet. They're installed in 1/16" brass as that was all I had that was less than the 0.80Ē for these particular rivet nuts.

You can see the flush mounted head and the flanged head. With high torque, I believe the flanged head would be better. They also make a ribbed body that is better for torque resistance for which I'm looking about a local supplier.

As I mentioned, these samples are intended for 0.80Ē gauge maximum. Iím getting 0.130 gauge max samples which I believe will handle most thickness in the Casita. More checking of wall thicknesses to come when itís not so cool outside.

The A and S's scratched on the material are aluminum or steel. I wouldn't use the aluminum ones for much. Like Brian, I was a bit of a gorilla on the 6-32 aluminum thread and pretty much pulled/stripped the thread right out.
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Old 11-30-2005, 03:18 AM   #20
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This back picture just shows the bulge that forms during installation. I donít believe these are intended to hold layers together.

The last picture is more in profile. The maximum height shown is 3/8Ē after crimping.

On the (w)hole, Iím feeling optimistic about this as an option for the door bolt replacement assuming the extended thickness rivet nuts are suitable.
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