HELP -- I need to drill a 1 1/8" hole in fiberglass - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-04-2012, 03:29 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Name: jim
Trailer: 2016 2ndGen Escape19 Prairie Schooner pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,398
Registry
Kevin,
I believe you have 12v in the oh for the lights, very easy to tap into and install an outlet for 12v, also you may want to switch out the 120v outlet to the newer 120v/usb found at amazon FastMac ACE-7169 U-Socket Standard Duplex Dual Outlet Dual USB, 110V, 15AMP TruePower, White - Amazon.com
Attached Images
 
__________________

__________________
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: Bigfoot 1981 Trailer
British Columbia
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
I have a side dinette with cabinets above. Thinking about adding the new 12 Volt outlet under the cabinet and between the shelf openings.

Attachment 53329
Need outlet for my laptop.
I also have a 120 volt outlet on the bench seat. I could add the 12 volt next to it.
Attachment 53330
Decisions Decisions
Just a suggestion, but I ran a heavy 12 gauge wire to the receptacle as 16 may be a little too light. When I had an old television, in a previous rig, the inverter would keep shutting down, due to a light gauge wire.
__________________

jimmied is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 08:30 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Kevin K's Avatar
 
Name: Kevin K
Trailer: 17' Casita
Mpls,Minnesota
Posts: 3,052
Registry
Thanks for all the GREAT tips.
cpaharley2008 I didn't know they had a outlet like that, I might have to install that also.
__________________
Kevin K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
I use a 1" hole saw when I want a 1 1/8" hole, they almost always cut a little large and it's a lot easier to file out a little than to add anything back..... Try a trial cut somewhere first.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 09:51 AM   #19
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,056
If you have access to a metal fabrication/ machine shop, a Greenlee punch produces a very clean hole. Raz
Attached Thumbnails
image-3087789941.jpg  
__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:04 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
I have several well used Greenlee punches and warn others that they will punch a decent hole in molded fiberglass only if they are SHARP.

Any that have punched much metal get dulled tend to crack or craze molded fiberglass. For that reason I don't use mine on fiberglass.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:17 AM   #21
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,056
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
I have several well used Greenlee punches and warn others that they will punch a decent hole in molded fiberglass only if they are SHARP.

Any that have punched much metal get dulled tend to crack or craze molded fiberglass. For that reason I don't use mine on fiberglass.
Thanks for the tip. So far so good. Raz
__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:44 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
rabbit's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
So you skate that 3/8" twist bit all over the place getting a pilot hole for the Greenlee arbor? I love you guys but I'd go with a plain old high speed hole saw and ease the pilot bit thru so the perimeter teeth don't catch. Helps to get the peimeter kerf even all the way round also as thin glass doesn't provide the best bearing for the pilot. The sheet metal step bit ain't bad neither if you got a big one. Got a router. Drill da hole in a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" ply, get it stuck on with some full coverage 2-sided tape, chuck a top pilot router bit in the router, plunge carefully in the middle of plywood donut, trace it out. Dust mask if you feel inclined; eye protection (hood or goggles) whether you do or not., On second thought, maybe you should leave that to me and my 35 yrs. of rattin out various openings by this fine old, time-honored light-industrial nastiness.


jack
__________________
rabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:58 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
djtriceflt's Avatar
 
Name: don
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT-13
Florida
Posts: 392
Registry
Other options

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
This would work nice and quick, but there would be a bit of fraying on the sides of the hole. You would get a bonus second hole too, maybe for an access hatch on the other side. * * *





* * * Please kids, do not try this at home, this is a job for a professional.




All kidding aside, the hole saw is the way to go. As long as it is sharp, it will work fine. Start slow until you get a good bite. Use a bit of sandpaper to smooth out the glass shards on the edge of the hole when done too.
No rattail files? How about this?
Attached Images
 
__________________
don '85 CT-13 PEACE be with you!
"Sometimes the hunt is better than the catch"
djtriceflt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 11:50 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
Ice-breaker's Avatar
 
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Escape 19 and Escape 15B
Alberta
Posts: 470
I second the use of the fine toothed hole saw with sharp teeth. Couple of things that could help you ensure a better quality finished product:
  1. Drill a small pilot hole entirely through the fiberglass before you begin. Use a regular drill bit and go to a size slightly smaller than the pilot drill on the hole saw.
  2. If the fiberglass is accessible from both sides, start your hole saw on one side and go partway through the fiberglass. Then complete the hole from the opposite side of the fiberglass.
  3. Stand back and admire your work and tell yourself that you are great. Take a picture of your work and post it on Fiberglassrv.com so that others can admire it as well.


cheers
__________________
Dave W - 2013 Escape 19', 2013 Escape 15B and 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser

"You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you are going, because you might not get there." - Yogi Berra
Ice-breaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 12:30 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
rabbit's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
Never used a 90mm recoilless rifle as a rattail file. It would make a great mole eradicater for your back yard plus the bonus of backblast for leaf blowing. Pay attention to your loads for the shottygun or you'll get a speaker grille rather than a single hole.

jack
__________________
rabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 01:13 PM   #26
Member
 
Name: Graeme
Trailer: Boler 1700 '79
Ontario
Posts: 70
I would use a forstner bit available at any home builder supply.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Crackedegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 01:29 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 325
You've gotten lots of excellent advice from those suggesting using a hole saw. I've done countless holes in glass with hole saws.

As others also mentioned, a wood block can help. I take a wood block and drill a hole with the hole saw, then drill a pilot hole in the glass, align them and clamp the block to the glass. (I have heavily taped them in place when clamping wasn't an option) With the hole saw held captive sideways in the wood block it becomes an effective guide to keep the saw from making an oversize hole if you wobble while hand drilling the hole.

It's always take a deep breath time when drilling holes in your shiny pride and joy but after the first few you get used to it.

Ron
__________________
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 01:37 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I've done countless holes in glass with hole saws.
Ron
I thought you literally meant glass. Reminds me of my uncle who decided to cut a 4" diameter hole in his basement window to vent a dryer. Six panes of glass later, he went with an aluminum plate with a hole in it.
__________________

__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Drilling into Fiberglass with a hole saw. WARNING freddo411 Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 8 05-05-2012 10:41 PM
Great way to fill a fiberglass hole Stacy Crotser Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 16 10-14-2011 05:28 PM
SOLD: '75 "EL MACHO" 13' fiberglass (Boler clone) in California elmacho Classified Archives 3 10-28-2010 01:58 PM
2010 Custom Fiberglass teardrop"Real Kool" Dave Baston Referrals: Molded Fiberglass Trailers 1 06-07-2010 06:14 PM
INFO RE Fiberglass "Travel Lite" Trailers of Early 60s Don Cordier General Chat 4 07-23-2008 12:18 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.