Help, Im Fishtailing (and other first trip encounters) - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-04-2012, 11:32 PM   #15
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Jimbo in the Documents center here you will find manuals for most appliances including your fridge which which you can download to find out how to do the maintenance/cleaning on it.

Re tire pressure, I was told my the fellow who does my tires to run them at full pressure. I have ST tires though so dont know if that makes a difference. I know when the topic of tires comes up on this list more often than not seem to suggest running them at full pressure.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:18 AM   #16
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The only moment of fishtailing I've felt prompted me to get a lower ball mount and not pack so much stuff in back. Stable ever since.

My fridge works fine on propane, great on 120, but so so on 12V. Never investigated. It can be hard to light on propane.

Sounds like a great drive, Love many of those spots.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:11 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I have noticed that sometimes the tire manufacturer recommends one PSI level and the car maker, another set of PSI levels. The car company wants a soft ride normally and for example my Jeep states on door jamb 30 psi but the tire states 45 psi. When towing I use 45 and I leave it that way the rest of the time. It rides a little harder but it make life a little simpler. So check both places.
Tyre manufacturers only list their maximum safe limit, not a recommended operating pressure. It is like some German cars have a sticker that says max safe speed for the car is 130MPH. And your tachometer has red zone to indicate max safe engine speed. Neither is meant to say you should run at those limits all the time.

That said I run my car sever lbs over the sticker on the door for a little stiffer ride to get better MPG.

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Old 09-05-2012, 07:30 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Thee Jimbo View Post
Harley the photo is misleading, the tape is not on the ground. just a way to show the drop of the ball from the receiver on the tow vehicle.

As for tire pressure, I read on another forum here (maybe for a compact Jr) but because of the light weight of these type of trailers, full pressure should not be used. 42 was WAY too high and I was scared to go to 20 so I settled for 30.

Weight distribution did not change from the beginning of the trip to the end of the trip. The only known variable (other than possibly a thrown weight on a trailer wheel) was the hitch I used.

Guess I need to check the tongue weight. but with a propane bottle and a marine battery it is not light. (I had to lift it a ocuple times) nor is it impossible to lift.

Maybe I need to buy the new hitch and start hauling. . lol

Mary & Bob, rattling wasnt as much as a problem with the solid hitch vs the adjustible hitch, but the trailer did tow differently, felt like we would occasionally surge with the newer non adjustible hitch. .
lol thank god it was just optical delusion,,,,lol yopu were going to have a really bad experiance towing an inch off the ground,,,,lol

factory says about 18 inchs. and low tire preasure can cause sway. as could a worn out axel i would imagine.

i run mine 30pounds and 18 inches, no sway.
also check what your tongue wieght is.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:34 AM   #19
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Jimbo, As Carol mentioned its best to download the manual for your fridge then you can see the parts in question. But the chimney is the round cylinder looking thing where your heater wires go near. There should be a good picture of it in the manual. Use some Q-tips and a little alcohol for cleaning the gas parts. You really don't have to take it out of the trailer to do a good tune up on it. And be careful using the air compressor, you don't want to use too high a pressure.
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:25 AM   #20
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What Carol H says. The trailer looks pretty low. You could check the axle to see how much travel is left. If it is sacked the ride and handling would be much improved by replacing the axle. Once the axle is replaced you can determine the drop of the draw bar to get a level ride. I'm envious of your trip! I'll bet you saw some beautiful country.
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:55 AM   #21
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Trip was amazing. Sounds like I need to lower my ball and check the axle (oh joy). Can it be repaired or is replacement the only option

I'm sure there are threads here on how to check and/or replace

Darn and here I thought it was time to make things pretty
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Old 09-05-2012, 01:42 PM   #22
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Jimbo,
To test the axle you could put two big guys in the trailer and have them bounce up and down while you are watching the action at the wheel well. Otherwise you could compare ride height photos from new trailers sales brochures with yours.
The axles are not repairable, but not too expensive to buy. If you do not have brakes, it would provide an opportunity to add them when ordering the new axle.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Re tire pressure, I was told my the fellow who does my tires to run them at full pressure. I have ST tires though so dont know if that makes a difference. I know when the topic of tires comes up on this list more often than not seem to suggest running them at full pressure.
Everyone in the tire and trailer industry I have talked to have suggested to run trailer tires at full pressure too. There is no correlation between tire and tow pressure. I have always done this, with only good results.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:04 PM   #24
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I agree with several of the above answers that the axle is bottomed out. When that happens there is no suspension travel left when it hits a bump and the entire trailer will bounce around rather than just the suspension.
As far as tire pressure; lower tire pressure = lower capacity & shorter life, all a bad thing with a Scamp on 13" tires. BTW: Did you check the age dates on yours???
I always set my tire pressures at a few lbs below max PSI as shown on the sidewall.
Green Lights: Some Dometic refrigerators have an auto select feature that selects the power/fuel source automatically. I don't think that it's anything you can add afterwards.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:08 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Thee Jimbo View Post
I'm sure there are threads here on how to check and/or replace

Darn and here I thought it was time to make things pretty
The first few posts in my axle swap thread tell you what to look for.
Replacing an Axle - leading arm to trailing arm

I went overboard on the design, you don't need to.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:47 PM   #26
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Brand spanking new tires. I'm convinced after reading lots that it's the axle. Yay me.

H
I think that will raise the trailer and hopefully better height and that may compensate and fix the fishtail problem

Now all I gotta do is get a new axle and put it on

Any one in LA done that I can come take a look at?
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:02 PM   #27
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If the draw bar is rattling within the hitch, then the answer is to remove the play or slack. I've tried several products and found the best answer is the Hitch Vise. It works great and is simple to use.

Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:09 PM   #28
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You might try Arrow Trailer Supply in Ontario. They seem to do a lot with axles and can also do the install. (It's welded, not bolted, Thank You Scamp!)
Here's a link: * (Arrow Trailer Supplies, Inc. - Ontario, CA) Axle Parts Department
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