Help! Installing hot water heater - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-11-2009, 10:57 AM   #1
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I want to install an Atwood 6 gal hot water heater into my '88 13' Scamp. Has anyone done this upgrade and where'd you put it? Any advise would be appreciated.
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Old 07-13-2009, 01:14 PM   #2
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Can't a brother get a little love?
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Old 07-13-2009, 03:01 PM   #3
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Adding a water heater isn't something a lot of people do 'round here, so we don't have much experience with it. I'll point out what I can about our stock-trailer installation:

First, our water heater is installed directly over the wheel well and axle, which makes sense because that would also center the 50 pounds of water weight (8-1/3 pounds per gallon) over the axle, which helps make it easier to balance the trailer for safe towing.

The water heater is directly below the sink, so we don't waste a lot of hot water or gray tank capacity waiting for the water to "get hot."

Our water heater sits on a platform made from OSB that supports the weight of the heater and creates a space under which the water pipes and electrical run.

I added a Hott Rod 110v electric element (Another brand name is Lightning Rod) to our water heater to cut down on propane use and simplify trailer setup. All I have to do is plug the trailer in and it takes 3 hours to get the water from cold to hot, no lighting the propane pilot required.

Be careful to cut a cardboard template for your fiberglass cutout and test-fit it to your heater before making any holes in your hull, then trace the outline to your trailer with a grease pencil and drill pilot holes at the corners and check them from the inside to make sure your small holes are coming up in the right place to fit your heater. Small holes are a lot easier to patch than big ones are.

Be very, very careful about running your gas piping. It sucks to fill your trailer up with propane then watch it blow up. Particularly if you (or a family member) are inside at the time. This is the one task in trailer maintainance where a small, less-than-obvious mistake or omission can kill. If you are not an accomplished handyman, if you are not familiar with the peculiarities of gas plumbing, reconsider doing the job yourself and hand it over to someone else.
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:20 AM   #4
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Thanks very much for your reply, and advice.

The Hott Rodd is not something I am familiar with, so I'll look into it. But since I plan to boondock more often than not, I'm assuming the 110v requirement won't work well for me.

Any thoughts about a "sparker"-type pilot lighting system, to replace the need for a match?

Again, thanks for the help.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:55 AM   #5
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Robert,

I do allot of replacements on the ignition boards, the same basic design is used with the refrigerators, furnaces and water heaters...if there are no handicaps to be considered such as sight or age stay with the manual ignition systems...in my book keep camping simple. My Suburban I just light the pilot and I get the hot water I need just off of it...if I have the grand kids or the dog gets skunked I turn on the burner to keep up with demand.

Harry


Quote:
Thanks very much for your reply, and advice.

The Hott Rodd is not something I am familiar with, so I'll look into it. But since I plan to boondock more often than not, I'm assuming the 110v requirement won't work well for me.

Any thoughts about a "sparker"-type pilot lighting system, to replace the need for a match?

Again, thanks for the help.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:24 PM   #6
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Hey, that's good advice! So, the pilot gets the "pot" warm enough for brief or seldom use. Nice. Gonna stick with the match ignition, too. Thanks, Harry.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:22 AM   #7
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Robert;
Do a search on my name and you will find an article and a picture I submitted on the sparker for the water heater.
I find it useful as it does make it easy to lite and relites it when wind blows out the flame (happened a few times).
But I did buy it cheap on eBay so I wouldnt want to pay the retail price for it!
Mike .....>
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