Help! Interior cracks in fiberglass - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 05-15-2019, 07:35 PM   #29
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Yes worried that’s exactly it. Since the patch work seems to be coming loose from the shifting. Not good not that it would of deterred us from buying the trailer likely, but wish we noticed it before.
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:36 AM   #30
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Hi guys- sorry to bother you again and this might be a stupid question but after locating the bolts...how do we go about tightening the new bolts if we can’t get on the inside of the frame? We can get those two end bolts but what about the ones more centrally located?
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:23 AM   #31
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Kortney, on the Trillium examples I've seen including my Trillium 4500, there should be 6 or 8 carriage bolts located inside front and rear benches. Look for carriage bolt curved heads and square washers that will be clearly visible inside the benches. After locating those carriage bolts inside the benches, then looking on the bottom of the camper frame, there are steel mounting tabs welded to the sides of the frame. The carriage bolts extend down through these tabs and are held by nuts. Post more pics if necessary.

EDIT: The square washers are about 2"x2".
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:33 AM   #32
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Yes, you can see it in my pictures. The inside plate has a square cutout, made for a carriage bolt, 5/16 inch as I recall. Take the plate with you to the place you buy the bolt. I used galvanized bolts, not the zinc plated and not stainless either.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:28 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Kortney, on the Trillium examples I've seen including my Trillium 4500, there should be 6 or 8 carriage bolts located inside front and rear benches. Look for carriage bolt curved heads and square washers that will be clearly visible inside the benches. After locating those carriage bolts inside the benches, then looking on the bottom of the camper frame, there are steel mounting tabs welded to the sides of the frame. The carriage bolts extend down through these tabs and are held by nuts. Post more pics if necessary.

EDIT: The square washers are about 2"x2".
Ok thanks John- so someone has clearly taken those carriage bolts out and replaced them with straight screws. We’ve taken them out and there’s no nuts or washers. And the screws go straight down into the middle of the frames which is weird. Like the picture I sent of the back of the frame. That was one of the screws. So I guess we will improvise with trying to get washers like the old 2x2 ones...
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:48 AM   #34
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Yep I used Unistrut square washers available in electrical department of home building stores.

Sure if you can get a nut (maybe a nylock nut) inside the frame onto bottom of the bolt, that would work. Here are pics of the two different ways the bolts are secured on my Trillium 4500 (1) angle iron tab welded to frame, (2) angle iron cross member of the frame itself.
Attached Thumbnails
frame bolt 1.jpg   frame bolt 2.jpg  

frame bolt 3.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:55 PM   #35
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Yep I used Unistrut square washers available in electrical department of home building stores.

Sure if you can get a nut (maybe a nylock nut) inside the frame onto bottom of the bolt, that would work. Here are pics of the two different ways the bolts are secured on my Trillium 4500 (1) angle iron tab welded to frame, (2) angle iron cross member of the frame itself.
These pics are very helpful thank you! Helps us understand what we’re missing. Just went down to our small homehardware and they didn’t have unistrut washers there of course so we will still have to get them- thank you for the guidance. This was clearly our problem. Can’t thank you enough!
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:56 PM   #36
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And thank you thrifty Bill as well helping us sort this out.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:26 PM   #37
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Kortney here is a pic of one that I replaced. Washer brand is actually superstrut, and its about 1 and a half inch square. The bolts are stainless 3/8" diameter. I used nylock nuts so that the bolts can be tightened just snug to reduce probably of cracking the fiberglass. Can always tighten more later. Also I coated underside of bolt head and washer with butyl tape. Many people coat the inside of the drilled hole with a surface sealant.
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frame bolt 4.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:24 PM   #38
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Kortney here is a pic of one that I replaced. Washer brand is actually superstrut, and its about 1 and a half inch square. The bolts are stainless 3/8" diameter. I used nylock nuts so that the bolts can be tightened just snug to reduce probably of cracking the fiberglass. Can always tighten more later. Also I coated underside of bolt head and washer with butyl tape. Many people coat the inside of the drilled hole with a surface sealant.
John- here are the three screws instead of bolts. This is down a pic from behind looking down the frame. When I look at every part of our frame there’s no black tabs like what you have to attach the bolts to- so wondering if this trillium was put on this aftermarket frame? Hence the screws? Also a pic of under a dinette bench (and front bench) with plywood they’ve got between the screws and the floor which goes under the floor of the dinette so they must have added that when they did it. So hard part now is getting deep into frame to get to new bolts to tighten them....or maybe we can drill hole all the way through frame and attach (if we can get bolts that long)...? Since we’ve got nothing else to attach it to? Especially hard at the front of the frame when it’s all sealed off.
Attached Thumbnails
EF6BE08F-9789-4E7E-A40A-92BB63DFD91C.jpg   4D091F52-C6EC-46C8-B75C-4228DDD8019B.jpg  

06D89431-0712-40A4-A75E-967CC777E8AB.jpg   9091E52A-2FB4-4149-BB41-8E1636C2FD08.jpg  

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Old 05-16-2019, 03:35 PM   #39
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My understanding that the tabs came after the Trillium recall. Prior to that, front and rear bolts all went through the entire frame vertically. After Trillium had frames cracking on the front attachment, they went with angle iron tabs. Since your trailer is a 1973, I would not expect any tabs, and you should only have 6 total mounting bolts, rather than 8.

A traditional bolt will work fine, it just becomes a two person job. Use a large washer inside the trailer to spread the load.
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:16 PM   #40
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Kortney, lacking any tabs or angle iron integral to the frame, another option is to use U bolts. This solution has been posted in other threads on this forum. I imagine the "U" portion of the bolt would extend below the bottom of the frame and the two nuts and flat metal piece would rest on top of the floor. The advantage of the U bolt solution is to avoid putting bolts through the frame which would weaken the frame.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:21 PM   #41
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John and Bill- U bolts! Good call- we will try that. So I suppose it’s an original frame then and before the recall. Some of the screw heads just rusted off as we tried to get them out lol so they must be fairly old. Tomorrow we are going to try and get it bolted and sorted, and back to it’s original solid shell! Thank you guys for helping me pin-point this major issue before it got worse. Couldn’t thank you more really, and hope to return the favor to the next new trillium owner.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:53 PM   #42
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Well I just did a quick search and found several threads mentioning the use of U bolts. One good suggestion is to use square shaped U bolts in order to eliminate stress on frame edges. Here are square U bolts at etrailer dot com:

https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Traile...CABEgLLcPD_BwE
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