Help! My Windows Are Leaking!

[lauramoncur]

After painting and replacing all the weather stripping, I had a nasty surprise. My WINDOWS are leaking. The seals on the doors are just fine, by the way, but I have NO idea how to fix these windows.

These windows open on one side and have a fixed window on the other. It seems to be leaking from the side that can open (even though it's closed and locked).

The weather stripping around the window panes appears to have separated a bit, but I have no idea how to replace or mend it.

Any ideas?

[Raz]

Hi Laura. I had to pull my windows a while back. Mine are a Hehr window with a clamping ring on the inside. If yours are the same this might help. Raz

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...eal-47832.html

[cpaharley2008]

Are these pictures of the outside? The screen is on the interior, correct? If so is water getting inside? They are not leaking if there is no water intrusion. If there is then you need to pull the window and redo the butyl tape around the entire window and reinstall, not hard to do.

[Alf S.]

Hi: lauramoncur... Sure looks like the glass seals have shrunk and pulled away at the 45* corners. Vintage Trailer Supply sells many types of window gaskets and seals and 3M makes a super bonding compound(Black liquid rubber/Glue) in a tube for joining the corners and the ends of the gaskets. All can be fixed with the right parts an supplies.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Tim Wood]

Laura, If it were me I'd pull the windows and put new rubber around the glass, clean the frame well and fiberglass and re-install using butyl tape. If you didn't want to mess with the rubber molding yourself, pull the windows and take them to your near by glass company, see what they would charge to put the rubber on. If you pull the windows and do the job right , you will never regret it and look at the windows with envy during a rain storm.

[Perry J]

I've just removed and reconditioned all the windows in my Lil Bigfoot.
I have replaced the front and rear plexi glass and replaced the fixed pane in the large side window.
The rubber mouldings that hold the window in place do not seal out the water.
There is a sealant used between the glass and the frame.
Today black silicone is used.
The rear plexiglass window leaked and it was obvious when I removed it the sealant had dried up.
Gently pull the moulding away, remove the glass clean it and the frame.
Run a bead of black silicone around the frame and reinstall the glass.
It's a much easier job if the windows are removed.
Make sure whe weep holes in the bottom of the frame are clean.

Good luck,
John

[Karen B.]

I struggled with the leaky windows on my Scamp--even after doing silicone around the edges and everything. Finally, I figured out that I needed to clean out the tracks, because the water outlet channel was plugged. I don't know what the technical name for that would be.

Good luck!

[BigMike]

Originally Posted by lauramoncur

After painting and replacing all the weather stripping, I had a nasty surprise. My WINDOWS are leaking. The seals on the doors are just fine, by the way, but I have NO idea how to fix these windows.

These windows open on one side and have a fixed window on the other. It seems to be leaking from the side that can open (even though it's closed and locked).

The weather stripping around the window panes appears to have separated a bit, but I have no idea how to replace or mend it.

Any ideas?

When I reconditioned my windows, I had the same problem. I went to my local automotive replacement window dealer and they gave me a cauking gun cartridge with a little left in it. It sticks well to rubber and it is not silicone. It dries to a nice black rubber that matches the rubber seal nicely. Perhaps you will find a window replacement store that was as nice as mine.
Worst case scenario, you may have to buy a tube...

[lauramoncur]

Karen B,

You were so helpful! I found a YouTube video online showing me how to clean out the tracks and drain holes and it solved 90% of the leaking. I have to silicone up to see if that does the rest of the job, but I am so glad you mentioned that!

[BCDave]

NO!!!! Do NOT use sillycone! Ever!!! Not even then!

[kootenaigirl]

Could you post the link to the youtube video, thanks.

[Perry J]

Originally Posted by BCDave

NO!!!! Do NOT use sillycone! Ever!!! Not even then!

There is a time and place for everything. I have used automotive sealers when replacing glass and reconditioning Egg windows in the past in the past.
The reason I decided to replace the plexiglass was I resealed it with automotive sealer which leaked, squeezed out and was impossible to remove from the plexiglass.
The black silicone will not dry out or be affected by the sun as it is between the glass or plexi glass and the window frame and is shaded by the rubber trim on the outside of the window.
The excess sillycone cleaned off the glass and plexiglass very easily and was much easier to use than automotive sealer.
The large shops where I had the glass and the front and rear plexiglass cut both reccomended black silicone as thatss what they use when replacing glass in RVs.
I've lost count, but I think this Lil Bigfoot is the 8th or 9th egg I've reconditioned or restored since I retired 7 years ago.
I know all about the perils of silicone.
John

[Raz]

Use Butyl tape. An RV store or building supply will have it. Don't use silicone. Use the search function to read the horror stories. Raz

[lauramoncur]

Here is a link to that YouTube video that helped me:

YouTube: LeakyRVWindows-DIY Fixit.wmv

I followed that process and it really helped.

[rabbit]

I've posted this before but if you haven't replaced the rubber gaskets or injected something into the separations at the mitres, try this. Take some butyl putty (mine was just trimmings from rebedding a fridge vent), Stuff the stuff right in the gaps at the mitres. You may want to take a q-tip and some Windex and clean those gaps of dust and grit to assure some adhesion before "stuffing". Keep pressing until it more or less conforms to the shape of the gaskets. Take a black MagicMarker and "paint" it to match the gasket. I think you have already cleaned the freeing ports in the sliding window channel. In a heavy rain, sheets of water on the glass will not be able to run thru those separations wholesale and the freeing ports will be able to keep up. I know this isn't very elegant but sometimes interim solutions can function for a very long interim. I think you will find that the replacement gasket will, in time, shrink just as much as the one replaced so this fix is worth some thought.

jack

[Perry J]

Originally Posted by P. Raz

Use Butyl tape. An RV store or building supply will have it. Don't use silicone. Use the search function to read the horror stories. Raz

You are recommending butyl tape between the glass and the frame when a window breaks and you simply replace the pane of glass?

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Perry J

You are recommending butyl tape between the glass and the frame when a window breaks and you simply replace the pane of glass?

No, between the window and the trailer. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. Raz

[Donna D.]

Laura, if you think it's leaking in the areas where the window glaze bead has shrunk, your choices are either to replace the bead or fill those areas. If you're looking to fill the cracks, maybe use this... and yes, I know it's silicone, but you're not putting on the body: Loctite 37460 3 oz Black RTV Silicone I used it to fill the gap in the gasket and lockstrip on my Scamp.

Or if you want to change the bead, maybe check here at the bottom of the page: Interstate RV Metal & Supply