HELP!! No inside lights!! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-28-2006, 08:34 PM   #1
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I have no idea what happened, but I was going to work on the Burro and have no interior lights. I plugged in the power and heard a click like I had blown a fuse, but all fuses look okay. Funny thing is, all interior plugs work and the air conditioner will also come on. So, I must have power to the Burro. Is there another fuse somewhere just for the small lights?? I am clueless!! thanks, Christi
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:56 PM   #2
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I plugged in the power and heard a click like I had blown a fuse, but all fuses look okay.
The interior lights usually are 12 volt, and sometimes 12 volt fuses look "OK" when they are actually blown. There also might be something happening with your converter.

What I would do is:
1. Unplug the trailer's power cord AND disconnect the battery at the battery box.
2. remove each fuse, one at a time from the [b]12 volt fuse panel, and test it with a continuity tester/ohm meter. If it is good, return it to the panel, and move on to the next. If you find a bad one, replace it with a tested fuse. (I have found bad fuses in "new" packaging.)
3. once all of the fuses have been confirmed good, reconnect the battery.

The Convenience Outlets and Air Conditioner are exclusively 110 volts (Alternating Current). They are governed by 110 volt circuit breakers, not 12 volt fuses.

4. Try lighting the lights on battery only.
5. reconnect the trailer's power cord, and try lighting the lights from the converter power.
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:57 PM   #3
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The interior lights usually are 12 volt, and sometimes 12 volt fuses look "OK" when they are actually blown. There also might be something happening with your converter.

What I would do is:
1. Unplug the trailer's power cord AND disconnect the battery at the battery box.

I'm curious as to why you say to disconnect the battery.
It seems like an unnecessary step. I've never seen an auto mech disconnect the battery before checking the fuses, in fact I would be unhappy if he did. (clock, and radio presets would need to be reset).

It's probably a good idea to disconnect the 120 Volt AC power.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:12 PM   #4
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I'm curious as to why you say to disconnect the battery.
It seems like an unnecessary step.
I have actually caused my fuse panel to arc by pulling a fuse and inadvertently touching it to the next fuse in the panel. (Close fuses and fat fingers)

This caused all of my circuits to go dead.
I disconnected the battery, and found through testing that all of my fuses were good. When I reconnected the battery, the lights came back on.

But now I have 6 volts AC riding on my 12 volt DC line.
Resetting the presets, while tedious, is preferrable to taking a shock.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:20 PM   #5
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Thanks for the start. I'm not really sure if my battery is good. I've always used the electric power cord. Also, I'm not exactly sure where these fuses are you're talking about. I have two regular-looking breakers on a box and a breaker for the AC. Then, I found a converter (inverter?) under the front seat that does have fuses. They all look really good, but I could test them. Are these the ones, or are there others that I should be searching for. I wonder if I don't know where the 12v fuse panel is

You're right, it's only the 12v bulbs that look like car light bulbs that are out. I also plugged into an outside receptacle that has a 20 amp breaker - maybe that blew something. Would it send 20 amps into a fifteen amp system, or does the system draw what it needs from the 20 amp household breaker. (Told you I'm over my head )

It seems like these systems are so simple, but they're new to me. Thanks for your help. Christi
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:27 PM   #6
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I have actually caused my fuse panel to arc by pulling a fuse and inadvertently touching it to the next fuse in the panel. (Close fuses and fat fingers)

This caused all of my circuits to go dead.
I disconnected the battery, and found through testing that all of my fuses were good. When I reconnected the battery, the lights came back on.

But now I have 6 volts AC riding on my 12 volt DC line.

I assume that the 6 volts AC is coming from your converter, if so you need a new converter or at least a new board in the converter. That AC would also be present when charging the battery, which isn't real good for the battery. I would be surprised if the arching caused damage to the converter or to anything else for that matter. What I think happened was when you shorted out the converted it's over current protection kicked in and it shut down. Some will stay shut down until AC power is removed. Once connected back to AC everything comes up as it was before, including the 6 volt AC.

Another possibility there could be a self resetting circuit breaker near the battery, if this happened with the AC removed.

I use a "fuse puller" to remove the blade type fuses. Better control and I don't have to worry about my fat fingers causing problems, which they probably would.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:34 PM   #7
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Also, I'm not exactly sure where these fuses are you're talking about. I have two regular-looking breakers on a box and a breaker for the AC. Then, I found a converter (inverter?) under the front seat that does have fuses. They all look really good, but I could test them. [b]Are these the ones, or are there others that I should be searching for. I wonder if I don't know where the 12v fuse panel is
Yes, I believe those are the ones.

My AC breaker panel, and DC fuse panel are all packaged together in the Integrated Converter Unit in my Fiber Stream.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:45 PM   #8
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Christi,

Look around the battery for another fuse. I don't know about the 17' Burro, but my Scamp has at the battery. It's a funny looking thing on of the wires coming from the battery. There's another fuse where the wiring from the battery comes into the trailer. If you have those fuses and either one is blown you wont have any lights.

I would also suggest that you take the battery out and have it checked. If it has shorted cell and you turned on the converter, (not inverter that's a different animal) the battery could have tried to draw enough current to blow one of the above mentioned fuses.


Most things are fairly simple. Electrical systems, however, can be a bit daunting, often misunderstood. You'll get the hang of it.
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Old 12-29-2006, 01:42 AM   #9
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Byron,
Thanks for the hint. I'll look for the fuses in the morning. Could those fuses have blown even if I wasn't using the battery for power, but the power cord? I really don't know if the battery is dead or alive because I expected to camp first in campgrounds. I guess I'll take it our battery and have it charged up - and look for the fuses. Thanks, I'll let you know. Christi
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:30 AM   #10
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Byron - Found a suspicious looking grey fuse this morning. I'll replace it and get a few more. My converter box says 15-20 amps - should I get bigger or smaller? Also removed the battery. I'll be a while before I get back - We and battery have to go to K.C. today, Burro lives in Cassville. Will report back in a few weeks when I believe I will have lights!! thanks for all your help Christi
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:32 PM   #11
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Old 12-30-2006, 03:33 PM   #12
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Gina - We were SO lucky to find this!! Actually, it had been advertized on this web site, had no activity and was still for sale. There was absolutely nothing wrong with it - except I'm sure I blew the fuse. Nice and clean inside and an amazing amount of room. As soon as my mini-muscles get the extra springs wacked out of the bed and the cover sewn up, it will be comfortable, too!! Maiden voyage to southwest early March Christi
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Old 01-27-2007, 07:27 PM   #13
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Okay everybody,a newbie does NOT know that it takes a battery to run the 12v lights . I thought it was battery OR plug until a neighbor asked "and how's yr battry!!" "It's in a box at home" Lights work fine now - sorry, I understand it better now . This site will get us on the road yet, thanks
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