Help! Sink, fridge, furnace

[Scouter Dave]

I am currently trying to remove the sink from the 1976 Trillium 1300. The right, rear and front holding clamps are out but there is no way I can reach the holding clamp on the left [when facing the sink]. The furnace exhaust pipe and a flat [protective?] piece of sheet metal over the pipe is blocking my access to the last clip. So........
I tried to remove the furnace [DuoTherm Model #65810-002] to get access to the clamp. I removed the four[4] holding screws in the front of the furnace but it will not budge. Are there more than four screws holding the furnace in place? Have I missed something. I have nothing in my manuals regarding this. So.......
I thought, maybe I can remove the fridge to get access to all the wiring under the furnace but, the two[2] holding screws on the front, bottom of the fridge are seized.
In spite of the long reach I thought that removing the sink would be the easiest way to gain access to the wiring and the bottom of the trailer below the counter.
Any suggestions, advice, "been there, done that...." from our recycling crews?
Thanks in advance.... Scouter Dave

[Carol H]

Dave, you might get more help if you indicated what type of furnace you have.

[Scouter Dave]

I will have another look for serial and numbers. It is a Duo Therm, I'm sure....
Stand by.... Scouter Dave

[Scouter Dave]

I have amended my original post and included the model #

DuoTherm Model #65810-002

It would seem, from what I have read on some of the older posts that it is a case of 'don't force it, get a bigger hammer'. If the furnace has never been removed before and there is 36 years worth of rust holding the two pipes together at the back I am going to have to find another way.
However, to get back to the original thought.... how does one remove the sink clamp on the left hand side of the sink. The one directly above the furnace pipe. I can't even get a hand on it, let alone a screwdriver or a socket...
Scouter Dave...

[Spanke]

Originally Posted by Scouter Dave

I will have another look for serial and numbers. It is a Duo Therm, I'm sure....
Stand by.... Scouter Dave

The problem with removing the furnace is that the flue out the side of the trailer is 2 pieces that telescope within each other. This allows for adjustment to various distances from the furnace to the outside wall. Through the years, the two pipes rust and can more or less weld together. This prevents the furnace and outer vent from being separated without some effort.

Removing the furnace can turn into a real PITA!

Here's a thread that you may find helpful or it may discourage you from removing at all.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ter-49659.html

Since you have revised your post I'll assume that you have probably seen this thread.

As far as removing the sink without removing the furnace I'm afraid I can't offer any help because I removed both. However, someone out there might be able to help.

Spanke

[David Tilston]

Oh do I remember that! I have since purchased two more furnaces. I am shocked that some people get them apart quite easily. I think that if I did it again, I would cut the tube from the inside with a Dremel cutter, then use a piece of tin, rolled up to fit the inside of the tube to re-attach. Still would have to cut off the piece that covers the hole.

This just gets the furnace out. I got the folks at Outback/Trillium to separate the two pipes. They cut the outer duct off so that they could get a pipe wrench on the inner pipe. Then they applied LOTS of heat. He said he had it glowing. They riveted what was left of the outer duct back on.

When you put them back together use an anti-seize compound.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Scouter Dave

I am currently trying to remove the sink from the 1976 Trillium 1300.

Is the reason for removing the sink to replace it? If so then the approach I would take would be to hack into the sink, expose the hidden clamp and remove it.

From the comments made it sounds like removing all the other stuff just to get to the sink clamp could open up a real can of worms.

Good luck with it.

Ron

[RRJR]

I have a 75 Trillium with a heater from FROMME in Quebec Can. Have taken it out and reparing, ?? what do you replace the old asbestos gaskets with ? Don't want to leave the asbestos ones in and have not had too much luck from people in the heating buss to recommend a replacement.

Ron

[David Tilston]

Gasket material can be purchased.
Woodstove Gaskets - Fireplace Gaskets - Gasket Material

[Brad Eltherington]

I removed the sink screw on the left side by going up through the hole where my water tank is under my front bench. Bit of contortion but did it.

Still need to get my heater out. A bigger hammer didnt help, will look to cut it. When I look in from the outside, I see 2 screws about 12 inches in and dont know if they are holding it together

[RRJR]

Thanks Dave.

Will try stove dealers.

Ron

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Brad Eltherington

When I look in from the outside, I see 2 screws about 12 inches in and dont know if they are holding it together

Where are the screws? At this point pictures would be good.

[Brad Eltherington]

The trailer is up north so I can't take a picture but when I looked in from the outside I can see two screws way inside. Wasnt sure if that was holding the pipes together. Figure it will be easier to cut the pipe. Not going to put the heater back anyway. Going to use it for storage and just bring have a small ceramic heat

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Brad Eltherington

The trailer is up north so I can't take a picture but when I looked in from the outside I can see two screws way inside. Wasnt sure if that was holding the pipes together. Figure it will be easier to cut the pipe. Not going to put the heater back anyway. Going to use it for storage and just bring have a small ceramic heat

The screws that you are seeing, are you seeing the heads when you look in the cool air vent? If so, they are the screws that hold the high temperature seal. They don't hold the pipe.

You can get the furnace out by cutting the top off the vent.
then cut around the inside of the exhaust pipe. This will allow you to remove the heater. Keep all the parts, they can be reassembled.

Randy Bishop is looking for furnaces for Trillium trailers. He may be interested in buying it. If not I may be interested. Pictures would definitely help.

[Scouter Dave]

THE SINK IS OUT!!!
All references are made while looking at the cabinet from the front.
I had a helper with small hands and arms. We popped the 110V wall plug out of its position on the upper, left hand side of the sink/stove/fridge cabinet [near the wall] and she was able to turn the clamp screw with a pair of vice grips by reaching through the hole. The vice grip had to be placed in position on top of the metal plate [a heat diffuser?] that is above the pipes by reaching wa-a-a-a-y back in behind the sink through the stove top hole. Closing the grips on the bolt head was done by guess and by God. It was a long, slow process and arm protection [long sleeve] was required.
Even after the clamps were removed the clamp brackets on the sink jammed against the sides of the hole and had to be worked through with wide screwdrivers as levers. I will use a rasp to open up the hole [notches] in line with the brackets before the sink is replaced.
It appears that the sink was installed in the cabinet before it was attached to the side wall and that no one considered the possibility that something might have to removed. Or maybe no one thought that the rig [like the Westy] would last this long.
Thanks for the help, the links and the sympathy.
Scouter Dave

[RRJR]

If the engineers that designed these things had to rework them I'm sure the designd would be much different.

Ron

[x2uol]

Have I missed something. I have nothing in my manuals regarding this. So.......

Hi,
Your talking about a manual for your 1976 trillium.
Is it a technical manual ?? If so can you tell please me where you got the manual.
The manual in the document section ,have only basic owners instructions.
Thanks
Lou

[David Tilston]

There is no manual for this stuff. That is why this web site is so helpful, (necessary).