Help with Fuses and circuits - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-16-2016, 07:45 PM   #15
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Name: George
Trailer: 1997 16' Scamp
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Another thought, most all wire you will find is stranded which stands up to vibration better and is more flexible. Romex house wire is solid.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:22 AM   #16
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
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Please let me know how this converter works for you! I have been debating buying the exact same one. My old one suffered after a power surge and I am still debating if I buy this or put in a breaker panel, battery charger and fuse panel instead.

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Originally Posted by LionelAucoin View Post
This is what I purchased:

https://www.amazon.ca/WFCO-WF8735PB-.../dp/B004LF14Q4

I can't say I did an amazing amount of research or anything, but it had what I needed (and more) and would fit in the space that I had. :-)
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:32 AM   #17
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Name: Lionel
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300 pulled by a 2015 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
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Originally Posted by TimR View Post
Please let me know how this converter works for you! I have been debating buying the exact same one. My old one suffered after a power surge and I am still debating if I buy this or put in a breaker panel, battery charger and fuse panel instead.
Will do! I am hoping to finish up with the wiring/install this weekend but unfortunately with the cold weather coming in it will be next spring before we get to take it out.

And will be posting pictures as I go on our blog: ourtrillium.wordpress.com
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:00 PM   #18
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Trailer: Boler
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Very cool. I found the converter kind of strange though that going from black to brown costs more than double??!!

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Originally Posted by LionelAucoin View Post
Will do! I am hoping to finish up with the wiring/install this weekend but unfortunately with the cold weather coming in it will be next spring before we get to take it out.

And will be posting pictures as I go on our blog: ourtrillium.wordpress.com
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:29 PM   #19
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Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
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if you already have a converter with ac and dc circuits whether fuses and or breakers, it is not usually too big a chore to pull out the dc section of the old converter, and wire in a new PD9130 or something similar, that is what I did, when I pulled the old converter out the dc section was just bolted on the back of the panel. I pulled it off, made a couple of brackets and mounted the new converter on the old panel. Ran a couple new wires into the panel, re did the wires for the battery, and bob's your uncle back in busines with a minimum of wiring
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:58 PM   #20
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
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I just bought a new Progressive Dynamics PD4135 for my trailer.
I haven't installed it yet due to lack of time (and now it's getting colder...)

My plan was to initially go with a deck-mount converter like the PD9130, and use the existing circuit breakers and fuses (or install a new DC fuse panel and new push-button AC breakers).
Then I realized that going with a all-in-one converter like the PD4135 wasn't more expansive, was simpler to wire and install, and offered the option to upgrade the trailer from 15A to 30A AC service, which I'm planning to do (not that I will be using 30A regularly, but I'll have the option).

The main thing on upgrading to 30A is simply getting a 30A main breaker instead of 15A, and replace the power cord to a 30A-rated, 10AWG RV cord. I found a 30A RV extension cord at Costco for $42 (real cheap) that I will be using for this.

My new converter has 6 DC and 5 AC branches. I'm adding both AC and DC voltmeters/amp meters, USB charging ports, new LED lights, new battery, and various switches to control all of this.
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