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07-15-2014, 04:23 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Joy
Trailer: Scamp
Illinois
Posts: 19
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Help with leaking
My husband and I are in the process of trying to help our little Scamp from leaking. We took it camping a few weekends ago and realized EVERY window leaks. It's a 1977 Scamp with (what we think) are the original windows. I added pics of the windows below
We have read about cleaning out the sills, and replacing the Butyl tape.
We can see that the tape looks VERY old and that it needs replaced.
Our windows are riveted in-not just the kind you pop out.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GET ALL OF THE RIVETS OUT TO RESEAL THE WINDOW?
Does anyone have any tips for us?
I have only seen the youtube videos and read about the easy windows that pop out.
Also, you can see that( two weeks later) I am not letting it stop me from taking my girls out camping. We know how to have a good time, rednecks or not! hah!
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07-15-2014, 07:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,845
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I had a similar problem. Your most probable cause is dirt in the drainage channel of the frame. Every window has two small short slits that drain water that gets past the seal, to the bottom of the movable pane. I tried cleaning them (2004 Scamp) from the outside, but that did not work. I ended up pulling the rubber channels that the glass slides in. You need to slide them open half way, then push and pull on the rubber part until it slides out. It takes patience to do it. Then you can lift the glass out completely and clean the channel. Then reverse the process. Sometimes the holes can get clogged by dust, needles, small debris and such surprisingly quickly, so after 37 years there must be some serious mud in there. Good luck.
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07-15-2014, 08:12 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Ted
Trailer: (Dark side)Crossroads Now
Glade Valley, North Carolina
Posts: 990
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I replaced all the window gaskets on my 2002 Scamp 19' due to Mud daubers had stopped up inside the windows through the drains. The original owner had gotten sick and had left the Scamp parked under a metal storage cover for two years without using it. The only option was to remove all the gaskets, clean and then replace. I probably could've used my old gaskets but I like to do things right and I just ordered enough gaskets to redo all the windows. Contacted Scamp and I was referred to Hehr Windows 1-800-637-8938.
__________________
“I have tried to live my life so that my family would love me and my friends would respect me. The others can do whatever the Hell they please!” —John Wayne
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07-15-2014, 10:26 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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To replace the butyl tape you drill off the rivet heads using a drill just a tiny bit bigger than the rivet shaft. Once the heads are off you can just tap the rivet shaft through to the inside of the trailer using a punch with a flat bottom and skinny shaft.
I can't tell for sure if the windows in the picture of your 77 are exactly the same but mine have little arms at the bottom with notches that prop the window open. When closed the arms fold up pulling the window in tight and then latch behind little clips. I think right around that time they also used crank up windows.
The windows will leak when closed if the rubber seal that goes around the inside of the window frame is cracked, missing or generally not able to seal. I had to replace mine with D shaped stick on seal. And fix a couple of prop arms to pull the window tight.
This is a picture of when I replaced the wood for the front bunk mount, showing the window I'm thinking you might have. Viewing image full sized will make this stuff easier to see.
You can see the arms that open and latch the window on the sides
pointed toward the camera a few inches up from the bottom. Latch clips half way up the window. If you have all the latch arms and none of the brackets that attach them to the window are broken you are a very lucky camper.
Between the two black clamps along the bottom edge of the open window is the D shaped rubber seal glued to the window.
Along the bottom where the wall is dark you can see the rivets coming through that hold the window in. You will want to gently use a plastic putty knife to peel the ensolite back around the edges before pushing the rivets through so they don't poke holes. You can easily glue it back after your done. Just be gentle so you don't tear it. But if you do have a little tear you can just clue it back and hide the tear with some white caulk.
One common place for the windows to leak is the seam where the aluminum frame ends meet. Replacing the butyl tape would fix that by providing a seal behind the seam.
Here is a good video on rivet removal. It's from a site for building airplanes but planes use the same type of rivets and it was the best video I could find.
EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
If you are not familiar with replacing pop rivets just ask or search the site. A lot of folks have been down that road before and will be more than happy to help.
Oh and the drainage slit is called a weep hole. Some people have had good luck cleaning them using the plastic line from a weed whip. Stiff but flexible.
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07-15-2014, 10:53 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Looking at your window pictures and zooming in it looks like the rivets above the windows lack snap caps. Mine was the same way. I don't think they used them back then but they help seal the rivets. Water flows down so if a rivet above window lets water in behind the ensolite it may come out when it hits the window frame.
Pretty easy to replace the rivet with a snap cap cover. Scamp store online sells them as do other online retailers.
Short term you could do what I did because I picked up my camper in the fall I did not have time for comprehensive repairs before winter and it was going to be stored outside. I used white liquid electrical tape and a small art paint brush to dab some on the rivets and seal them.
If you look close you will see I also did something I DO NOT recommend, I used a latex caulk to seal the window to the trailer. I made the job of getting the window out and doing a proper repair a lot harder with that decision but had to get the window sealed quickly for the winter and was buried with work at the time.
One other thought if the D shaped rubber seal for the window is curled or twisted at the top of the window the water will run down on the screen or the inside of the window. Seal seems to get messed up at the top by the hinge over time from opening and closing.
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07-15-2014, 11:32 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Joy
Trailer: Scamp
Illinois
Posts: 19
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I can't wait for my husband to read your reply, I think it will help a lot. Yes, my windows are just as you described. One of my girls (while sleeping in the top bunk) accidentally broke one of the arms off right at the base of the window, I have no idea if we can fix it, but I still have the piece.
Thanks for including the pictures, it seems like we are the only ones with these old windows.
Also, did you notice the large bolts above the window at the front of the scamp? What so you think those were for, a window awning? I haven't seen any other trailers with those bolts either.
Thanks again! I will keep you posted
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-16-2014, 06:07 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 1994 Scamp 16
Arkansas
Posts: 239
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RogerDat,
Thanks for the great information!!!! The video was excellent on drilling out rivets! I am a learner by watching videos! Now, I can drill rivets.
Carl
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07-16-2014, 09:08 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nut501
RogerDat,
Thanks for the great information!!!! The video was excellent on drilling out rivets! I am a learner by watching videos! Now, I can drill rivets.
Carl
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Carl drilling out the rivets is a pretty easy job, but the one common mistake folks make is they use to big of a drill bit & end up with much large holes in the fiberglass than the original. As someone else mentioned you only need a drill bit that is the same size as the outside diameter of the rivet shaft. When unsure of the actual rivet shaft size I often start out by going with the smallest one I think it may be and then move up to slightly larger until I get the one that works the best.
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07-16-2014, 09:14 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Actually when I drill out rivets, I use a large bit, but I stop when the head comes off. I don't drill through the fibreglass.
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07-16-2014, 09:23 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
Actually when I drill out rivets, I use a large bit, but I stop when the head comes off. I don't drill through the fibreglass.
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Your right! I should have added the cavity the goal with the drill is to get the head off only and then just push the rivet out..... but as I indicated those who haven't done it before often end up using way to big of a drill bit and go right through & enlarging the hole... can't tell you how many old bolers I have seen that happen on.... then the search is one for a larger size replacement rivet...
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07-16-2014, 10:42 AM
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#11
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motherofsquirrel
I can't wait for my husband to read your reply, I think it will help a lot. Yes, my windows are just as you described. One of my girls (while sleeping in the top bunk) accidentally broke one of the arms off right at the base of the window, I have no idea if we can fix it, but I still have the piece.
Thanks for including the pictures, it seems like we are the only ones with these old windows.
Also, did you notice the large bolts above the window at the front of the scamp? What so you think those were for, a window awning? I haven't seen any other trailers with those bolts either.
Thanks again! I will keep you posted
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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Bolts may be from a Scamp front window cover that flips up to become an awning. I'm thinking of the Gravel Shield(s) listed middle of this page.
https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-...lts,16-15.html
Do you mean broke like this? That hole in the picture is not the original hole where the arm attached, hole added to loop a wire through to hold the window closed. For arm to latch window closed it really needs to be the original distance so I ended up building a replacement bracket. If your bracket is what broke I can post a picture of what I made to replace it. Common materials and sweat equity as they say.
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07-16-2014, 10:49 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
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The picture isn't great but I think RogerDat is correct - the ones above the window probable for the rock guard as it looks like the hardwear for keeping the guard closed are also under the window.
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07-16-2014, 11:05 AM
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#13
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Your right! I should have added the cavity the goal with the drill is to get the head off only and then just push the rivet out..... but as I indicated those who haven't done it before often end up using way to big of a drill bit and go right through & enlarging the hole... can't tell you how many old bolers I have seen that happen on.... then the search is one for a larger size replacement rivet...
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Yes bit of an art and feel to drilling out the rivets using a larger bit, same size as rivet will work if you get it centered but if a little off center you don't want to keep going once you get through the head. You will make an oval hole if you do keep going. In this case you have to switch to a larger size that will either grab the head and twist it off or cut head loose before you get into the FG underneath.
Rivets that give me the most headache are the ones where the shaft sticks up a bit in the center, can't center drill on a point. Usually end up either carefully making it flat with a file then using a punch to make a dimple in the center for the drill bit to catch or using a dremel with pointed grind stone to grind a dimple in.
So easy to have drill bit slip off of rivet when the shaft sticks up I have taken to punching a hole in cardboard the size of the head and taping it over the rivet to help make sure the drill can't slip off the head and hit the FG. Am I paranoid? Yep but I learned better safe than sorry the old fashioned way. I screwed up
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07-16-2014, 03:43 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Joy
Trailer: Scamp
Illinois
Posts: 19
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another pic
THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE HELP!!!
I LOVE THIS SITE
I tried to take a picture of where our window "arm" broke off, but it is hard to see. It broke off so close to the window itself.
I also am still curious about the bolts over the window. We have the gravel shield and it goes on much lower then those bolts.
Also, our stove top is in pretty bad shape. ANyone out there want to sell theirs for cheap?
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07-16-2014, 04:20 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motherofsquirrel
I also am still curious about the bolts over the window. We have the gravel shield and it goes on much lower then those bolts.
Also, our stove top is in pretty bad shape. ANyone out there want to sell theirs for cheap?
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Post a closer up photo of the bolts over the window so we can take a better guess at that they were for.
If you look around on line you should be able to find yourself a whole new stove top at a pretty reasonable price. Even Scamp sells one for $130 & they are know to be more expensive than other sources. .
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