help with Trillium door hinges - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-19-2011, 05:49 PM   #15
Raz
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I had to reset my hinges. They were originally installed crooked. I filled the holes with PC-11 epoxy putty that I injected into the holes with a syringe. I made metal backing plates and bolted the hinges to the body. So far so good. Poke around, I posted pictures of the whole thing. Raz
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:49 PM   #16
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Guilt, a door threatening to fall off or blow away, and P. Raz's excellent post pushed me into going out to my trailer today,despite the miserably cold weather, and using a metal putty knife, many curses and fingers , I pulled and taped back the liner, just as Raz did- Duct tape in my case. Using his clear pix as a guide, I marked in with felt pen the cut- outs and made a quick job of it with my Mastercraft multi tool, using the narrow blade for the short cuts and the circular blade for the longer verticals. My 1980 had nothing but the 'glass inner surface and failed hopes, with the threes screws clearly visible. No wood, no metal, nothing. Such rotten design and execution. Pathetic. My new hinges are already pulling away from the surface and the door is sagging worse than before, and binding on the moulding of the lower door surround. The hinges are not much better- fine for a frig door, but bad choice for a trailer door. And as others have pointed out, there is a problem getting those top screws in. There is also no room to properly countersink for a larger screw head. I will use Raz's idea of metal plates, which I will bond onto the 'glass surface, and locate everything using Raz's precision tool or an equally high tech modification. Some time in the new year I will get on with the chore, using thickened Cold Cure epoxy and SS machine screws with Robertson heads. I'll wax or grease the shanks as I assemble, so the epoxy will not capture the screws, and I'll adjust them periodically as the resin cures to further discourage bonding. The micro furnace will be running on HIGH. Thanks Raz
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:00 PM   #17
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For what it's worth I made my plates from a piece of heavy steel salvaged from the back upright on a discarded office chair. It was probably 3/16" thick. You can't beat the price and when I use this stuff to fix the trailer it justifies my collection of junk to my very understanding wife. .

I used the hinge as a template to drill the plate. I did not bond them to the fiberglass. All the holes were drilled about 1/16" large to allow for adjustment. Lots of miles on the trailer since the repair and nothing has moved.

A magnet on a string is useful to have when you drop the plate as well as a stick with some double sided tape when you drop the stainless steel hardware that the magnet won't attract. Good luck, Raz
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:43 AM   #18
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AHA! I thought that plate looked like scrap, with what looks like the vestiges of a rolled edge. My next door neighbour has lots of scrap plate and strap. I think 3/6" to 1/4" plate will do it, providing a number of full threads when tapped. I might even use alu plate as there is plenty of that around. I'm not worried about gauling, as it will be rain water if anything that gets in there, but I doubt that will happen, and I'll use anti seize compound as a matter of course. I was able to avoid this problem with my sail boat masts and booms, and they were constantly exposed to wind driven salt water. Thanks for your tips.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:26 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
AHA! I thought that plate looked like scrap, with what looks like the vestiges of a rolled edge. My next door neighbour has lots of scrap plate and strap. I think 3/6" to 1/4" plate will do it, providing a number of full threads when tapped. I might even use alu plate as there is plenty of that around. I'm not worried about gauling, as it will be rain water if anything that gets in there, but I doubt that will happen, and I'll use anti seize compound as a matter of course. I was able to avoid this problem with my sail boat masts and booms, and they were constantly exposed to wind driven salt water. Thanks for your tips.
I used stainless steel bolts (# 10 I think) with nylok nuts. I think the most recent California built Trilliums used an aluminum plate drilled and threaded when the door was installed. Since you are using an alternate approach to mine remember to post lots of pictures. Help the next guy out. Raz
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:00 PM   #20
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^This latest little gem of info from you has just decided me, Raz! I too will use some alu plate I happen to have presently unemployed. It is about 1/4" or 6 mil. I'll drill some extra 1/4" holes in the plate after I drill and tap, to increase bonding contact. Yes, I'll attach pix when I get to the actual install. I'll have to find out how to attach pix, also.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:13 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
I used stainless steel bolts (# 10 I think) with nylok nuts.
+1 on the stainless bolts. For the minimal extra cost, you eliminate a whole lot of grief down the road when you need to remove these bolts, especially threaded into aluminum.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:18 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
Guilt, a door threatening to fall off or blow away, and P. Raz's excellent post pushed me into going out to my trailer today,despite the miserably cold weather, and using a metal putty knife, many curses and fingers , I pulled and taped back the liner, just as Raz did- Duct tape in my case. Using his clear pix as a guide, I marked in with felt pen the cut- outs and made a quick job of it with my Mastercraft multi tool, using the narrow blade for the short cuts and the circular blade for the longer verticals. My 1980 had nothing but the 'glass inner surface and failed hopes, with the threes screws clearly visible. No wood, no metal, nothing. Such rotten design and execution. Pathetic. My new hinges are already pulling away from the surface and the door is sagging worse than before, and binding on the moulding of the lower door surround. The hinges are not much better- fine for a frig door, but bad choice for a trailer door. And as others have pointed out, there is a problem getting those top screws in. There is also no room to properly countersink for a larger screw head. I will use Raz's idea of metal plates, which I will bond onto the 'glass surface, and locate everything using Raz's precision tool or an equally high tech modification. Some time in the new year I will get on with the chore, using thickened Cold Cure epoxy and SS machine screws with Robertson heads. I'll wax or grease the shanks as I assemble, so the epoxy will not capture the screws, and I'll adjust them periodically as the resin cures to further discourage bonding. The micro furnace will be running on HIGH. Thanks Raz


Would you please post that link? I have looked for it - much to wade through.
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:26 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by JRTrillium View Post
Would you please post that link? I have looked for it - much to wade through.


Trillium Hinge Repair
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