hitch problem - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-14-2003, 10:14 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
>>up 'n down and side to side sloppiness with the hitch

Whoa. Rich. Now you have me concerned. Are you talking about movement in the hitch itself (the hitch + receiver) bolted to your car? There should be absolutely no movement in that.

If it moves, you either have a loose bolt or a broken weld. Some hitches are one-piece. Others come in pieces and you have to assemble prior to bolting onto your car.

But if everything is tight ... nothing should be moving.

>>I have another drawbar

By drawbar, you mean another ball-mount, the piece onto which you mount the ball, right?

Or are you talking about when the ball-mount is pinned the hitch, you can wiggle it around a bit (that's normal) ... and as I said before, check for wear on the pin and the pin holes.
__________________

__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2003, 10:38 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
quote:
>> I might look into the brake controller though, since I haven't adjusted it since day one. <<

Yikes! If you never adjusted your controller, I think this is where your problem is.

The fix could be as simple as re-adjusting the controller, or maybe there is a serious problem with the brakes now (worn out) because the controller has been out of adjustment for so long.

Depending on the controller model, most should be adjusted on every hook-up.

Also, check brake current on both sides. Maybe one side is not braking, giving a pushing sensation.
__________________

__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2003, 01:48 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Quote:
Orginally posted by Charles Watts

Whoa. *Rich. *Now you have me concerned. ...
Not to worry, Charles, the hitch to truck frame connection is solid, only the drawbar moves. There's maybe a 1/16 to 1/8 inch of play in all directions. I've checked the pin and pinholes and don't think there's a problem with either. I bought the truck from my son. He used it to put his boat into and out of saltwater and frequently left the bar in the receiver, causing lot's of saltwater corrosion. Before he sold the truck to me, he had to take a sledge hammer to knock the bar loose and I had to take hammer, chisle and coarse rasp to clean out the rust before I could get MY bar into the receiver. I'm thinking maybe 8000 miles later, more layers of rust have rubbed away over time and the fit between the bar and receiver is looser than it should be. If that's the case, the only remedy I see would be a whole new hitch, an expense I don't want to suffer as I'm planning on buying a new truck before too long.

Rich
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2003, 01:47 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Rich, if loose fit is the case, and you don't know anyone who welds or brazes, then you might try some brass or steel shim stock from a hardware store, just contact-cemented to the bar.

No doubt it will wear out and pull loose occasionally, but it would be a darn sight less expensive than a new receiver!

Or make some skinny wedges and drive 'em in and forget about pulling out the bar for the season.

Pete and Rats

PS Folks who live in the land of snow should be in the habit of removing your bar occasionally so it won't get frozen in by corrosion. My brother lives in Vermont and had to remove the receiver and put in in a press at work to bust the bar loose -- almost exceeded the 40 ton capacity of the press!
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2003, 07:19 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Removing hitch from receiver

I guess all of you are more agile than I am. I remove mine right after I unhitch and throw it in my tow vehicle. Why? Cuz, I guarnatee you it will be less than 5 minutes before I whack my shin on it if I don't......Aren't bifocals grand....NOT!;)
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2003, 07:59 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Suz
I do same thing.Remove after I unhook.:wave
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2003, 08:02 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
J-Pin

We had a similar rattle, and for a few months I could not, for the life of me, figure out what was rattling. Finally eliminated everything I could think of except the actual hitch. There is always a bit of inherent sloppyness where the hitch fits into the receiver, maybe 1/16''. Too small to insert any kind of padding.

So I emailed the hitch manufacturer, Draw-tite. They knew exactly what I was describing. Sent me free of charge a ''J-Pin'' (Stabilizing Pin with Lock) to replace the ordinary draw-bar pin. The J-Pin clamps down tight, utilizing the second hole on the Draw-tite receiver, making the receiver and hitch seem like they're welded together. I don't know whether other brand hitches have the second hole, but you could certainly drill one. The J-Pin also has an integral keyed lock, in case you want to use it.

Solved our rattle problem.:)


http://www.draw-tite.com/
(Search for ''J-Pin'' or ''Stabilizing Pin with Lock'')
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2003, 08:49 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Quote:
Orginally posted by Pete Dumbleton

Or make some skinny wedges and drive 'em in and forget about *pulling out the bar for the season.
Thanks Pete, that's something I hadn't thought of. If wedges get rid of the symptoms, I can be pretty confident that's were the problem is. If they don't, I move onto the next most logical thing, the ball and coupler, which were my first suspects. I've checked both and they seem OK but hooking up and having someone watch as I move back and forth to see what's happening might tell me more. As for the wedges, if they work it would be a temporary fix but should buy me time until I get my new truck with new hitch. Thanks again...

Rich
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2003, 01:00 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Quote:
Orginally posted by George Cathcart *

So I emailed the hitch manufacturer, Draw-tite. They knew exactly what I was describing. Sent me free of charge a ''J-Pin'' (Stabilizing Pin with Lock) to replace the ordinary draw-bar pin. The J-Pin clamps down tight, utilizing the second hole on the Draw-tite receiver...
My receiver's not a Draw-tite with a second hole. If a loose fit between drawbar and receiver turns out to be the problem, I could probably drill the second hole and try the J-Pin, though I doubt Draw-tite would send me one for free...wouldn't hurt to ask I guess. If the shims that Pete suggested solve the problem, I'd be more likely to go with that temporary fix until I decide what to buy in the way of a new truck, and pass the problem off to someone else. Actually, son-in-law #2 would like to buy my truck and as he'd not likely be towing anything larger than a utility trailer, if that even, the "problem" shouldn't be a problem for him.

Rich
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2003, 04:32 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Suz and Chester: I modified my Reese receiver (it was a "one size fits a lot of trucks" model and stuck out too far and hung too low. Now it sits higher and much further under the truck; between that change and shortening my ballmount/hitchbar/stinger, it's hard to whack a shin. It's also hard to get up into my truck bed to retrieve something, as I used to step on the crosspiece which is now covered by the bumper.

I also enlarged the hole in the hitch pin itself so I could insert a padlock.

Now that I've moved my spare tire/wheel to the front bumper from under the rear, I can actually insert the ball mount from the front and lock it so nothing sticks out.

Pete and Rats
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2003, 06:19 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Hi Pete&rats
Sounds good.I found I still like to remove mine each time,due to the fact that they dissapear pretty fast.The lock idea I like.Hey buddy post a photo of lock, please.:)
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2003, 07:43 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Hitches

Pete, sounds like the way you reconfigured yours is really great. Unfortunately, on mine, it is where it is and has no place else to go. That's okay, it works for me.

Ches - you can buy locking pins at Wal-Mart or just about anywhere they selling hitch stuff. There are several different kinds, but I don't remember if they have a 'J' like George was talking about.
__________________

__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"U-Hitch" Rear Hitch Receiver Tim Ryce Modifications, Alterations and Updates 9 03-12-2009 05:05 PM
RAV4 and equalizer hitch - any problem? Glenn Baglo Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 6 10-31-2008 03:49 PM
Hitch Aid / Bumper Guard Behind Hitch Ball? Parker Buckley Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 12 01-27-2008 04:05 PM
Problem Name Joanie Jokes, Stories & Tall Tales 1 02-26-2007 04:38 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.