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04-17-2017, 07:37 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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How do I fix my leaning trailer?
Our Compact II noticeably leans to one side. I'd like to fix that before we tow it across several states this summer. I can see underneath that the original axle is on top of the original springs, and that one side is lower, but I'm not sure what the solution is. The springs on the side that is lower seem to be deflected less than the springs on the other side but I didn't measure. Obviously springs should be expected to sag over time. Is there reason to do something in addition to replacing these springs?
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04-17-2017, 08:43 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,020
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I'd take it to a trailer repair place, (even ones that sell horse trailers or farm trailers,) and have them just swap out both of the springs on the axle.
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04-17-2017, 08:44 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
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You may have a broken leaf spring on the low side,a close inspection should tell.
It is also possible to have springs rearched to give more support.
R.
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04-17-2017, 09:37 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: BARNEY
Trailer: CASITA
Georgia
Posts: 125
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Springs can be re-tempered and become equal, i have done this many times on drag racing vet's
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04-17-2017, 09:49 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Not sure what stores are in your area, but farm supply stores usually carry light trailer axle components at reasonable cost. You should be able to get direct replacement springs which can be changed with ordinary hand tools.
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04-17-2017, 10:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2013Escape 21
Iowa
Posts: 1,218
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Hi Brian
If you determine that you need to remove the spring sets, the first thing I would do is to liberally apply a product like wrench EZE, liquid wrench etc, to the nuts on the spring shackles at the ends of the springs and to the bolts that hold the spring seed to the axle. To make it easier to change I would use an impact wrench to loosen the nuts, if you don't have one, try to borrow one. The nuts rust up pretty tight so soaking for a couple days makes removal a lot easier.
Dave
Dave
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04-17-2017, 01:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Thank you friends. This is all very helpful. I have a farm supply store nearby and I'd like to try replacing the springs myself. If that doesn't work out, I will take it to a shop I know of. I'll let you know what happens.
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04-17-2017, 05:14 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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04-17-2017, 05:27 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trails West Campster 1970
Posts: 3,366
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I had a similar situation years ago- it wasn't the leaf spring itself, but the piece that it attaches to (and I'm sorry I can't remember what it was called). One piece was stuck. A trailer place (commercial, not RV) replaced it for me, no problems since.
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04-17-2017, 05:31 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trails West Campster 1970
Posts: 3,366
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Second pic down, it was the part that is supposed to move that wouldn't. Check that on yours. My springs were fine- just one of those parts was frozen.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...xle-75895.html
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04-18-2017, 05:35 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer
I had a similar situation years ago- it wasn't the leaf spring itself, but the piece that it attaches to (and I'm sorry I can't remember what it was called). One piece was stuck. A trailer place (commercial, not RV) replaced it for me, no problems since.
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Bobbie, maybe that piece is called a shackle?
Darwin, thank you for the link. That looks just like what I need.
You all are great. I hope as I gain trailer experience I can be helpful to someone else.
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04-18-2017, 07:59 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trails West Campster 1970
Posts: 3,366
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Yes, a shackle. (Sounds familiar, anyway!)
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04-25-2017, 05:49 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave
the first thing I would do is to liberally apply a product like wrench EZE, liquid wrench etc, to the nuts on the spring shackles at the ends of the springs and to the bolts . . . The nuts rust up pretty tight so soaking for a couple days makes removal a lot easier.
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Dave, you were exactly right. Below is the picture of the shackles and spring before I started. I used my favorite lubricant (PB Blaster) and sprayed liberally twice a day for 4 days. After that, all of the rusty bolts came off with an ordinary 1/2 inch socket wrench. I was very surprised I didn't need my impact wrench or even a breaker bar. I ordered my new springs this morning.
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04-25-2017, 07:25 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,709
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If you're replacing the springs, also replace the shackles and bushings.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-25-2017, 08:27 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2013Escape 21
Iowa
Posts: 1,218
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Grease zerks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
If you're replacing the springs, also replace the shackles and bushings.
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Hey Donna
Remember when manufacturers put a grease zerk everywhere there was repeated movement or friction? Those old Chrysler products in the 50s had about 25. But if they had been greased regularly you could take them apart and fix whatever. Ball joints, tie rod ends, spring shackles, and the clutch and brake petal just to get started.
We greased cars for $1.75 7 cents a zerk plus treated all the rubber bushings. Now, nothing but planned obsolescence.
Dave
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04-27-2017, 01:49 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: RB
Trailer: 1992 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Virginia
Posts: 121
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Planned obsolescence is a relative thing. Car manufacturers quit putting Zerks on cars because John Q American didn't use or value them, and they cost money.
I recently put the last of four new ball joints on my fine, vintage 1999 TV and guess what: the replacement Moog Problem Solver ball joints all have Zerks. So does the replacement idler arm. And yes, the waste grease from the joints does indeed help with undoing things later on, but then so does living in Virginia.
As an old car guy, I have a lever grease gun with a good synthetic base high moly grease in it. I tend to hit the front end on the TV with it whenever it's convenient, which usually works out to twice a year or so.
In the case of the trailer spring shackles, I'm guessing that there are nylon bushings on the shackle bolts. They tend not to like grease. If you want to switch to greased joints, you'd need hollow shackle bolts with Zerks on the end. I suspect they exist, but couldn't really say (I have a Dexter Torflex, so nothing similar there).
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05-01-2017, 03:35 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 721
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Iowa Dave.
I worked for Sohio (Standard Oil of Ohio) in and after HS for a while and we greased cars for $2.50 and that included checking all fluids, hoses, tires, bulbs, oiled door hinges and lubed weatherstripping around the doors. If the brakes needd adjusted that was extra.
Lube Oil and filter with the premium oil was about $20 and the customer was good for another 1500 to 2000 miles And we did pickup and deliver and you could get a wash while it was in.
Now you can get coffee after you pump your own gas
Joe
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05-07-2017, 04:33 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Success!
My trailer doesn't lean noticeably anymore. Springs cost me $63. All new fasteners: $66. Rust inhibiting primer and paint: $16. I tightened the shackle bolts until the heads were flush against the shackles and hangers. Then I backed off the nuts a little bit because I think over-tightening might be detrimental. Thank you to everyone who offered advice.
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05-07-2017, 05:48 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2013Escape 21
Iowa
Posts: 1,218
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I bet you have a good sense of accomplishment from that project. Make sure and check those nuts after a trip or two just so they do not loosen up.
Iowa Dave
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