HOW DO I RE-ATTACH BELLY BAND - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-28-2006, 04:01 PM   #15
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft.-1974, Scamps 16 ft.-1996 & 13 ft.-2003
Posts: 51
- Many thanks to the following people:
Dave:Thanks for your idea of having to drill new holes for the rivets offsetting the old ones and the idea of small beads of caulk including caulking the topside ONLY of the belly band-I'll tryan acrylic sealer. At this time, I am deciding to use the same black vinyl in the channel.
Benny K.:I thought I read that somewhere about using steel wool and now I will have to do double duty. I have the green scouring pads and Brasso. I'll buy the Never Dull wool this week. Your explanation of how to install new rivets was great too! The seam gap on my trill varies from 1/4 to 3/8 inches.
Ed:Your description of what everything inside the seam area looks like is absolutely correct!! I have the same problem and thanks for the ideas of filler suggestions. I thought I might try plastic wood, but now I am not sure it would be a good filler. I'll check out the Marine 2 you mentioned.
Kurt:Lucky you for having only one loose rivet. I have stopped counting how many I have to do /I had to problem with you asking questions to others members-it helped me out too.
TomA.:Now I have a better understand of the trailer's construction. I'll have to check into what BLIND rivets look like. You are quite knowledgeable about these Trills!!

I had thoughts about going outside and working on the Trill It's in the low 90s. I think NOT!!-I'll do some cleaning in the ac=house. Have a wonderfull weekend and keep cool.-Mary Lynn

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Old 05-28-2006, 07:27 PM   #16
Trailer: Trillium Manufacturing
Posts: 30

Yes, you are correct, except that the rivets do not go through the body from the factory. After the band is riveted with the use of the steel clips, it is then fiberglassed (over the rivets & clips) from the inside. This makes for a leak proof seal. (When new).
Over time, water can make it's way through the fiberglass seam seal. (wicking). That's why it is important to seal the aluminum band with a long lasting acrylic sealer.

The rivet will go through the fiberglass if you are now replacing rivets. That's the only way for the rivet to grab onto anything. That's why you need blind rivets. Blind rivets are closed at the back end, so that they can not transmit water through the rivet body.

Bolers: I don't think that their system would ensure a better water seal. You still have holes in the finish side. The seal is dependent on how well & quickly they clamped the 2 halves together. There still can be voids (many?) in the mating surfaces. I don't know if they back up the seam with fiberglass on the inside. There is also the possibilty of some 'puddling' in the rain on the top of the lip. It would be difficult to seal all those rivets individually.. When designing the Trillium, we considered this approach, but decided against it for these reasons. (Bolers were already being built in Western Canada).

Ed: As long as you did a good job of getting the mix to adhere to the fiberglass, (and no voids), you should not have any trouble.


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Old 05-28-2006, 10:38 PM   #17
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Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
The Bolers are sealed in the cabin interior wall with back up fiberglass as you stated and that is what holds the two halves together and normally they don`t leak......the rivets in the belly band go through the top of the belly band and into the lips of the mating halves and end up about 3/8" from the cabin body or more.....I`m assuming from your discription of the Trills is that the bonding is only in the lip to lip portion and if that is the case then I can see possibly having to use the blind marine type rivets with caulking......I`ve had leaks in my 17' Boler because of 2" or so drywall type screws being driven in between the lips and thru the fiberglass material that joins the halves to affix wood cabinetry to the cabin wall.....this comprimised the sealing of the cabin wall and led to water rotting some cabinetry structure......and...Mary...since the Trills use a different sealing system than the Bolers you should follow their instructions on the belly band install....Benny
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:29 PM   #18
Trailer: Trillium Manufacturing
Posts: 30
BennyK: To save me a lot of typing, I've made up a liitle diagram showing the detail of the center seam assembly. It's only a sketch - not perfect, but I think it will do. I'm attaching this as a jpg pic. Hope it works. If it doesn't post right, I hope the website people here can fix it.

Judging by the posts on this forum, I stand with my statement that the boler seam isn't the best either. I will try to do better on the new generation.

None of the fiberglass structure in Trilliums had mechanical fastenings to hold the parts together. Everything was fiberglass bonded.

Hope this clears it all up.
I will add this to the service section on the TrilliumRV website for future reference, Thanks for your input.


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Old 05-30-2006, 07:28 AM   #19
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Trailer: 2000 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe ('Millenium Eggloo')
Posts: 203
Another solution to the Trillium Belly band is to use the rubber trim moulding used along the side of the GM & Chev pick up trucks. It is wide enough to cover the opening, has a good self adhesive tape on it and it looks great!! It is usually quite easy to find at Wally World or most of the larger auto parts chains in the trims section as an off the shelf item.

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Old 05-30-2006, 05:38 PM   #20
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Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
Thanks Tom...Benny

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