How do you get the reflectex insulation into the Burro cavities ? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-29-2007, 11:15 PM   #1
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I am trying to stuff the insulation up into the very narrow crevices. The insulation is getting hung up and resisting. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this more easily ?
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:28 PM   #2
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I've been reaching into those crevices numerous times by now, but always with an electrician's "fish tape" which is very efficient for snaking wires.
Getting insulation in there after the assembly is probably an extremely difficult task, but there may be instances where an automotive "gripper" might help (the device which is used to pick up bolts, etc. from inaccessible places). I have my doubts, but it might work in some areas.
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Old 01-30-2007, 01:41 PM   #3
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Could you form small pockets on the leading edge of the insulation, opening back towards you, and use a fish tape (or other flattened springy bit of metal) to push it in?
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:24 PM   #4
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Rusty - This doesn't answer your question but just fyi, in the old pre-hacked messages, someone wrote that if you remove the front and back windows, you could get in between the two layers of fiberglass to add insulation. On the side windows, the two layers of fiberglass are joined together, so there is no access.
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Old 01-30-2007, 03:33 PM   #5
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I push, shoved and wiggled as far as I could and it still leaves a lot that's uninsulated.
However most all of the bottom is and that helps a lot.

If it gets really cold, around 25 say, we wrap a fleece throw blanket over some reflectex and run it around the side and back windows ( three pieces that overlap each other), up to the shelf area. That kills any drafts and really gets the bed cozy with the cube heater. I just clip the relectex to the curtain rods.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:03 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help. Rusty
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:10 PM   #7
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Rusty as an FYI, prehack there was a discussion about using that spray in foam stuff (that expands and hardens) to get into the tight areas. The consensus was NOT to use it, it's actually got enough oooomph to separate the fiberglass in areas that shouldn't be...like around the side windows. You don't want the double-hull to spread
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:04 AM   #8
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Just a thought - how about blown fiberglass insulation? (I'm presuming that is used in North America, like here.)

The bouncing of the trailer on the road might either make it settle or loft it up. Either way, sealing up all holes would be needed. Better insulation than all but foam, I would've thought.

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Old 01-31-2007, 06:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Just a thought - how about blown fiberglass insulation? (I'm presuming that is used in North America, like here.)
I've got about a foot of that stuff in my attic. I think it would settle tho

How about those little tiny styrofoam pellets...the ones that look like very small beads. They don't compress, don't hold moisture and would get into little tiny cracks.
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Rusty - This doesn't answer your question but just fyi, in the old pre-hacked messages, someone wrote that if you remove the front and back windows, you could get in between the two layers of fiberglass to add insulation. On the side windows, the two layers of fiberglass are joined together, so there is no access.
If the Burro is like my UHaul (and it probably is), removing the windows won't help you. The FG layers are joined around all windows.

FWIW, there was a thread about Reflectix in double-hull eggs some time back - the consensus seemed to be that it didn't help much. But then, it can't hurt, either.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:32 AM   #11
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Rusty,
With the overhead center strip off, I drilled some 1/2" diameter holes into the side of the flange, slipped fish tape down to the bottom, duct taped to the insulation and to the fish tape, then pulled isulation up into cavities. I was able to get at least 90% coverage but it was not easy. Best to have one person pushing and one pulling. It is interesting when you get to the corners and you have to cut the insulation into the shape you think it will be in when it is pulled in. A few attempts will hone your technique. When done the center strip covers up the drilled holes.
Rick
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