How do you secure cabinet doors & drawers? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-23-2012, 10:52 PM   #15
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I'm pretty sure I still have some of the original posilatches from our "78 Trill if yours are damaged enough to need replacing. If your hinge screws are just screwed into the FG and have come loose repeatedly I think that bolting through with either lock washers on the back or nylox nuts would be a good idea. If you need some latches send me a PM and I'll see what I can come up with.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:08 PM   #16
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Smile Hinge screws, etc

If you are having problems with hinge screws or anything, epoxy a piece of wood behind the edge of the opening and drive the screws into that. It will spread the load out over the length of the wood and prevent FG cracking that can come from using bolts.

BTW we use shock cords for the 'closet' door and adjusted the length with a short loop of string. Then we wrap a short shock cord around the two cabinet handles under the stove/sink. The other doors haven't been a problem, except for the porta potti door which received the epoxied wood treatment mentioned above.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:24 PM   #17
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In my first TT, a Rockwood, doors and drawers opening during travel was a real problem. I installed childproof safety devices in the drawers and sometimes tied door handles to each other with some string.

The door on the dorm fridge in my Burro opened during travel almost without fail. I secured it with a 5" velcro strip running from the front to the side.

No problems with my current trailer's cupboard doors, though. I found various plastic bins and cut-down cardboard boxes to fit snugly in each cupboard, so nothing can bang against the doors and force them open.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:32 PM   #18
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There's a ten-penny nail through a hole drilled in the outer frame of the fridge, that seems to keep that secure - and I've been looking for ways to manage the space behind the doors too!

The suggestion of the wood behind the hinge side is a great one, and tomorrow I'm going to go measure what length of like 1" molding to get and secure the hinges - GREAT idea!
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:13 PM   #19
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Images of the Refrigerator 'lock'



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Old 08-01-2012, 10:10 AM   #20
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Duh...thank you for the photos. Can't believe we didn't figure this out. Have "wired" it in a slightly opened position with a piece of bent coathanger during our last three trips. This is a much easier solution.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:17 AM   #21
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Ten locker and cabinet doors in the Burro. Only the two above the galley counter ever opened after takeoff and before landing. I bungied them from the door bail to the microwave and the range hood. Then I noticed that I had no problems with the doors which had double roller catches. Rather than improve on perfection, I got more of the same at Home Depot (about 99 cents). There are many other types of roller catches. This particular one has two spring-loaded plastic rollers which OPEN in opposition to each other and a U-shaped keeper (not the spear-shape around which the springs CLOSE the rollers). The rollers compress to enter the U keeper. This is a rough-as-a-cob device; you can scratch yourself on the keeper; it's takes a jerk to open, sometimes a slam to close but it is positive and easily adjusted for just a bit less positive grip.

I have a chunk of "Z" angle which pivots above my dorm fridge and secures the door.

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Old 08-01-2012, 04:45 PM   #22
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I added pins to the lower edges of the cabinet doors, then routed out little notches in the door frames for the pins to lie in when the doors are closed. A sliding bolt then covers the notch, locking the door closed. Works great and not too obtrusive.

Here's a pic:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...t/DSCN1881.jpg
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:09 PM   #23
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Rare Earh magnets. On my silverware draw I used 4 small ones. Works well but requires a bit of a tug to open. The closet door has too much mass and has to be bungied. Other doors are a mix of original hardware and magnets. Raz

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Old 08-01-2012, 06:15 PM   #24
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We were only having trouble with the drawers - all the cabinet doors stayed secure with no assistance.

The drawers were directly opposite one another so we thought up a solution using two 2x4 scraps that we had in the garage and notched them to fit over the drawer handles. Then secured then with a velcro strap so they wouldn't bounce out.
See first photo (missing the velcro straps).

It worked well but after one trip it was obvious that this was too heavy and bulky to mess with so we switched to using 2 curtain tension rods and secured them to the handles with velcro strap. Seems to work pretty well...lightweight, small and easy to stow, put in place and remove.
See second photo.

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Drawer Keeper in place for travel.jpg   Drawer Keeper Tension Rods.jpg  

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Old 08-01-2012, 08:30 PM   #25
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Push Knobs that I found online
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:44 AM   #26
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In addition to the Boler we have a 33' Golden Falcon. The doors have Bulldog catches that require quite a tug to open. There are a wide variety of trailer cabinet catches at RV Cabinet & Drawer Hardware
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:42 AM   #27
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We don't have any problem with our cabinet doors staying closed, but I can't find the replacement hardware that will hold our upper sliding cupboard doors closed.

First, the cabinet doors - they stay closed without latches!

I had to replace all the cabinet doors on our Trillium 4500. In the process, I bought new, more-modern-looking hardware. The new hinges look just like the old ones, except for the color. However, I can't remember if the old hinges were like this, but the new ones have a plastic insert which acts as a spring which makes the door finish closing itself, once you get to a certain point. I couldn't find latches that matched the new hinges, so I just got matching handles (no latch). I was planning to use just a handle and magnets (somehow) instead of latches. Well, so far we haven't needed anything more than those spring-loaded hinges to hold the doors closed while traveling.

Now, the upper cupboard doors - stuff is flying around inside our camper!

The problem we do have (and I hope I can get a little help here! ) is that the sliding doors on the upper shelving at the front and back of the camper won't stay closed. They slide open while traveling, during turns (I assume) and random items come flying out. There are supposed to be little spring-loaded stops/pins that you have to depress in order to slide the doors open. We're missing all but one of those stops. Does anybody here know of a source for these little spring-loaded stops? Or, at least what they are properly called. Googling "spring-loaded cupboard door stops" doesn't get me anywhere.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:09 AM   #28
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Try Googling RV Replacement Parts Cabinet Hardware. Does the door not slide in groves? Could you not just cut a wooden chopstick or similar small piece of wood or plastic to sit in the groove while travelling much the same way folks "lock" patio doors slightly ajar with a stick stuck in the grooves. (A photo of the existinig catch would be helpful if you have one.)
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