How do you secure cabinet doors & drawers? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-02-2012, 08:32 AM   #29
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Name: Sherman
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Originally Posted by Bonnie and Claude View Post
Try Googling RV Replacement Parts Cabinet Hardware.
Oh well. I got pretty much the same results as all my other googling attempts.

Quote:
Does the door not slide in groves? Could you not just cut a wooden chopstick or similar small piece of wood or plastic to sit in the groove while travelling much the same way folks "lock" patio doors slightly ajar with a stick stuck in the grooves.
Awesome idea. Thanks. I'll try that on our next trip. Still, I would really like to replace the hardware that's supposed to be there.

Quote:
(A photo of the existinig catch would be helpful if you have one.)
I'll try to get a photo tonight. I just assumed (uh oh!) that everybody here (except me!) would know what the heck those little things are.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:43 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by spotcatbug View Post
...I'll try to get a photo tonight. I just assumed (uh oh!) that everybody here (except me!) would know what the heck those little things are.
Our Boler has hinged doors so can't quite visualize the setup. Good luck in your search.
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:53 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Fran L View Post
We were only having trouble with the drawers - all the cabinet doors stayed secure with no assistance.

Fran
Fran have you seen the Philip-It RV Cabinet Latches? They are a little on the pricey side but they work on drawers as well as doors and a little less bulky.
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:59 AM   #32
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Those look nice - we may try those if our tension rods prove to be a hassle.
Thanks!
Fran
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:06 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Bonnie and Claude View Post
A photo of the existinig catch would be helpful if you have one.
I got some pictures this morning. I'm trying to find these spring-loaded stops. The one remaining one (in the pictures) seems original, judging by the extreme tarnish (I think it's brass).

You can see how it's a pin set into a grommet or something. The pin is spring-loaded. You hold it in and then slide the overlapping door over the pin to open the doors.

This first picture shows the rear upper-shelf sliding doors. The pin I'm talking about is near the middle of the photo, holding the sliding doors closed...

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Then I moved a little closer to show the pin (left-center black circular thing)...

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Closer...

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A better picture, showing how it sticks-out to hold the sliders closed...

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Anybody know where to get these things? They can't be all that exotic.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:12 AM   #34
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Anybody know where to get these things? They can't be all that exotic.
So, THAT's what you're looking for. Did you check with Larry.. in the Commercial Forum: Latches, Knobs and Bezels
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:09 AM   #35
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Looks like a plunger lock for sliding doors on glass showcases where security (against theft rather than stuff crashing to floor) is important. Most of those are combination of push to secure (the rear overlapping door) and key release. The plunger on yours blocks the front overlapping door but does look to be keyed (or maybe not from your description as this is only acts in the capacity of a stop. McMaster-Carr should have something similar.

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Old 08-04-2012, 11:16 AM   #36
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Sherman: Our quick fix to prevent our side sliding windows from opening while traveling is to shove a piece of that round foam type weatherstrip into the bottom channel. It looks like gray rope, about 1/2" diameter, soft & flexible. I had some on hand, so it was a case of use what I got. To keep the closet door shut I put a small hook & eye on that.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:57 PM   #37
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Spotcatbug, if you find the spring catch for the slider, let me know. We need one too
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:44 PM   #38
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On really rough roads, I have used the blue painters tape to secure cabinets. It leaves no residue when removed.

I have one cabinet where all the food is stored that I use "TV Grips". I found that when the weight shifted in this cabinet that latches would not hold it closed.

TV Hold Down Systems on Sale - PPL Motor Homes
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:42 AM   #39
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When I bought my 72 Boler it had the original drawer box all falling apart and way under sized. I wouldn't trust it with my worst plastic spoon.

I enlarged the drawer opening and made a new drawer box using 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood and a 1/4" ply bottom dadoed into the sides, front and back. I installed additional plywood "cradles" in the cabinet to attach the drawer guides.

The best part is the guides. I used ball bearing full extension guides with a self close feature. Push the drawer closed and when it gets within 1 1/2" of full close, there is a cushioning effect to keep it from slamming and the integrated springs slowly pull it closed and keep it there. No additional catches, locks necessary.

The guides only need 1/2" space between box and opening on each side and can optionally be installed under the drawer. They cost about $10 a pair starting at 8" length and sized in 2" increments so 8, 10, 12, 14 long etc.

I have pulled my Boler over some dramatic back country roads where the wheels occasionally leave the ground due to side to side rocking and I have never found cutlery on the floor let alone observed the drawer open.

All the cabinet doors have the original handles/catches and only the coat closet opens occasionally but it's the loaded heavy bins inside that are banging on the door. Brainstorming a solution for that problem.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:26 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by spotcatbug View Post
I got some pictures this morning. I'm trying to find these spring-loaded stops. The one remaining one (in the pictures) seems original, judging by the extreme tarnish (I think it's brass).

You can see how it's a pin set into a grommet or something. The pin is spring-loaded. You hold it in and then slide the overlapping door over the pin to open the doors.

A better picture, showing how it sticks-out to hold the sliders closed...

Attachment 49606

Anybody know where to get these things? They can't be all that exotic.
Y'know, it looks like a cheap automotive door switch for a dome light. Why don't you haul one into a good auto parts store and talk to the counter guy? Or a junkyard?

How about these?

http://lbcunited.com/earlyford2/prod...4e6173256803ee

http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-do...itch-1957.html

http://sedecodistributing.com/cgi-bi...ing&item=43709

http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...1973/p/HW1608/
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Old 08-08-2012, 10:09 AM   #41
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Y'know, it looks like a cheap automotive door switch for a dome light.
After much searching with the suggestion to check with McMaster-Carr, I found out what these things are. They are a real thing (not some strange re-purpose of some other thing) called "spring-loaded captive sliding door plungers." Or just "spring-loaded plungers," depending on who you're dealing with.

The problem in the Trillium is that the plungers are "press-in" style plungers, meaning you need to use a press to install them. I can't figure out how to get the old ones out. I should have mentioned: the three that are missing aren't entirely missing. The "husk" which used to contain the spring and the pin is still there, pressed into place. Somehow the pin and the springs came out (and got lost).

So, to fix these, first I'd need to "un-press" these old ones. That's not a big deal; I'd probably just cut them out. The big deal is, I can't just find a direct replacement. I don't have a press. I need a "thread-in" style plunger that will go into the existing hole. Not impossible, but it has slowed me down considerably. Especially considering that there are other, easy ways to hold the sliding doors closed while traveling.

I've got my eyes open for fixing these some day, but I'm not actively looking anymore.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:03 PM   #42
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i take everything out of all drawers and cabinets and throw it on the floor. saves time.


Thanks for the chuckle, John!
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