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08-01-2012, 10:17 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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Ten locker and cabinet doors in the Burro. Only the two above the galley counter ever opened after takeoff and before landing. I bungied them from the door bail to the microwave and the range hood. Then I noticed that I had no problems with the doors which had double roller catches. Rather than improve on perfection, I got more of the same at Home Depot (about 99 cents). There are many other types of roller catches. This particular one has two spring-loaded plastic rollers which OPEN in opposition to each other and a U-shaped keeper (not the spear-shape around which the springs CLOSE the rollers). The rollers compress to enter the U keeper. This is a rough-as-a-cob device; you can scratch yourself on the keeper; it's takes a jerk to open, sometimes a slam to close but it is positive and easily adjusted for just a bit less positive grip.
I have a chunk of "Z" angle which pivots above my dorm fridge and secures the door.
jack
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08-01-2012, 03:45 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: Compact Jr
Posts: 274
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I added pins to the lower edges of the cabinet doors, then routed out little notches in the door frames for the pins to lie in when the doors are closed. A sliding bolt then covers the notch, locking the door closed. Works great and not too obtrusive.
Here's a pic:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...t/DSCN1881.jpg
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08-01-2012, 05:15 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
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We were only having trouble with the drawers - all the cabinet doors stayed secure with no assistance.
The drawers were directly opposite one another so we thought up a solution using two 2x4 scraps that we had in the garage and notched them to fit over the drawer handles. Then secured then with a velcro strap so they wouldn't bounce out.
See first photo (missing the velcro straps).
It worked well but after one trip it was obvious that this was too heavy and bulky to mess with so we switched to using 2 curtain tension rods and secured them to the handles with velcro strap. Seems to work pretty well...lightweight, small and easy to stow, put in place and remove.
See second photo.
Fran
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08-02-2012, 04:44 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Bonnie and Claude
Trailer: N/A
Ontario
Posts: 224
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In addition to the Boler we have a 33' Golden Falcon. The doors have Bulldog catches that require quite a tug to open. There are a wide variety of trailer cabinet catches at RV Cabinet & Drawer Hardware
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08-02-2012, 06:42 AM
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#27
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Member
Name: Sherman
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Pennsylvania
Posts: 34
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We don't have any problem with our cabinet doors staying closed, but I can't find the replacement hardware that will hold our upper sliding cupboard doors closed.
First, the cabinet doors - they stay closed without latches!
I had to replace all the cabinet doors on our Trillium 4500. In the process, I bought new, more-modern-looking hardware. The new hinges look just like the old ones, except for the color. However, I can't remember if the old hinges were like this, but the new ones have a plastic insert which acts as a spring which makes the door finish closing itself, once you get to a certain point. I couldn't find latches that matched the new hinges, so I just got matching handles (no latch). I was planning to use just a handle and magnets (somehow) instead of latches. Well, so far we haven't needed anything more than those spring-loaded hinges to hold the doors closed while traveling.
Now, the upper cupboard doors - stuff is flying around inside our camper!
The problem we do have (and I hope I can get a little help here! ) is that the sliding doors on the upper shelving at the front and back of the camper won't stay closed. They slide open while traveling, during turns (I assume) and random items come flying out. There are supposed to be little spring-loaded stops/pins that you have to depress in order to slide the doors open. We're missing all but one of those stops. Does anybody here know of a source for these little spring-loaded stops? Or, at least what they are properly called. Googling "spring-loaded cupboard door stops" doesn't get me anywhere.
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08-02-2012, 07:09 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Bonnie and Claude
Trailer: N/A
Ontario
Posts: 224
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Try Googling RV Replacement Parts Cabinet Hardware. Does the door not slide in groves? Could you not just cut a wooden chopstick or similar small piece of wood or plastic to sit in the groove while travelling much the same way folks "lock" patio doors slightly ajar with a stick stuck in the grooves. (A photo of the existinig catch would be helpful if you have one.)
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08-02-2012, 07:32 AM
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#29
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Member
Name: Sherman
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Pennsylvania
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonnie and Claude
Try Googling RV Replacement Parts Cabinet Hardware.
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Oh well. I got pretty much the same results as all my other googling attempts.
Quote:
Does the door not slide in groves? Could you not just cut a wooden chopstick or similar small piece of wood or plastic to sit in the groove while travelling much the same way folks "lock" patio doors slightly ajar with a stick stuck in the grooves.
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Awesome idea. Thanks. I'll try that on our next trip. Still, I would really like to replace the hardware that's supposed to be there.
Quote:
(A photo of the existinig catch would be helpful if you have one.)
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I'll try to get a photo tonight. I just assumed (uh oh!) that everybody here (except me!) would know what the heck those little things are.
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08-02-2012, 07:43 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Bonnie and Claude
Trailer: N/A
Ontario
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotcatbug
...I'll try to get a photo tonight. I just assumed (uh oh!) that everybody here (except me!) would know what the heck those little things are.
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Our Boler has hinged doors so can't quite visualize the setup. Good luck in your search.
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08-02-2012, 09:53 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fran L
We were only having trouble with the drawers - all the cabinet doors stayed secure with no assistance.
Fran
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Fran have you seen the Philip-It RV Cabinet Latches? They are a little on the pricey side but they work on drawers as well as doors and a little less bulky.
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08-02-2012, 09:59 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
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Those look nice - we may try those if our tension rods prove to be a hassle.
Thanks!
Fran
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08-04-2012, 09:06 AM
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#33
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Member
Name: Sherman
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Pennsylvania
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonnie and Claude
A photo of the existinig catch would be helpful if you have one.
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I got some pictures this morning. I'm trying to find these spring-loaded stops. The one remaining one (in the pictures) seems original, judging by the extreme tarnish (I think it's brass).
You can see how it's a pin set into a grommet or something. The pin is spring-loaded. You hold it in and then slide the overlapping door over the pin to open the doors.
This first picture shows the rear upper-shelf sliding doors. The pin I'm talking about is near the middle of the photo, holding the sliding doors closed...
Then I moved a little closer to show the pin (left-center black circular thing)...
Closer...
A better picture, showing how it sticks-out to hold the sliders closed...
Anybody know where to get these things? They can't be all that exotic.
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08-04-2012, 09:12 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotcatbug
Anybody know where to get these things? They can't be all that exotic.
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So, THAT's what you're looking for. Did you check with Larry.. in the Commercial Forum: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...els-51048.html
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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08-04-2012, 10:09 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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Looks like a plunger lock for sliding doors on glass showcases where security (against theft rather than stuff crashing to floor) is important. Most of those are combination of push to secure (the rear overlapping door) and key release. The plunger on yours blocks the front overlapping door but does look to be keyed (or maybe not from your description as this is only acts in the capacity of a stop. McMaster-Carr should have something similar.
jack
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08-04-2012, 10:16 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Sherman: Our quick fix to prevent our side sliding windows from opening while traveling is to shove a piece of that round foam type weatherstrip into the bottom channel. It looks like gray rope, about 1/2" diameter, soft & flexible. I had some on hand, so it was a case of use what I got. To keep the closet door shut I put a small hook & eye on that.
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08-04-2012, 11:57 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500 (plus 2 Rhodesian Ridgebacks)
Posts: 404
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Spotcatbug, if you find the spring catch for the slider, let me know. We need one too
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08-04-2012, 12:44 PM
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#38
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Commercial Member
Name: Rob
Trailer: Casita
Kansas
Posts: 81
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On really rough roads, I have used the blue painters tape to secure cabinets. It leaves no residue when removed.
I have one cabinet where all the food is stored that I use "TV Grips". I found that when the weight shifted in this cabinet that latches would not hold it closed.
TV Hold Down Systems on Sale - PPL Motor Homes
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08-08-2012, 12:42 AM
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#39
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Member
Name: Rick
Trailer: 72 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 93
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When I bought my 72 Boler it had the original drawer box all falling apart and way under sized. I wouldn't trust it with my worst plastic spoon.
I enlarged the drawer opening and made a new drawer box using 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood and a 1/4" ply bottom dadoed into the sides, front and back. I installed additional plywood "cradles" in the cabinet to attach the drawer guides.
The best part is the guides. I used ball bearing full extension guides with a self close feature. Push the drawer closed and when it gets within 1 1/2" of full close, there is a cushioning effect to keep it from slamming and the integrated springs slowly pull it closed and keep it there. No additional catches, locks necessary.
The guides only need 1/2" space between box and opening on each side and can optionally be installed under the drawer. They cost about $10 a pair starting at 8" length and sized in 2" increments so 8, 10, 12, 14 long etc.
I have pulled my Boler over some dramatic back country roads where the wheels occasionally leave the ground due to side to side rocking and I have never found cutlery on the floor let alone observed the drawer open.
All the cabinet doors have the original handles/catches and only the coat closet opens occasionally but it's the loaded heavy bins inside that are banging on the door. Brainstorming a solution for that problem.
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