how does that stabilizer work?

[jwcolby54]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

They don't actually click when they lock, it is a sliding, jamming mechanism. The way I use mine is to step on the foot to pull it all the way down, then lift on the bumper slightly which causes the stabilizer to extend just a little more, then lock when I release the bumper.

I will try this. If it si going to work this seems the easiest way to work them.

Mine were somewhat corroded and I sprayed them with a WD40 corrosion inhibitor. Perhaps the "jamming mechanism" is now lubricated

[SilverGhost]

These stabilizers really are sensitive to being clean and straight. If bent or rusty they won't work that well. Good thing they are cheap!

Sounds like yours maybe a little bit of both?

Jason

[honda03842]

I believe the instructions are not to lubricate. One of mine came slightly bent so it doesn't drop down. I use the ratchet extension to put it down. I also use it on the other side to tighten.

Here's a picture of our blocks, not the threaded rod above for block storage.

[Nancy]

We use a "lego" under ours. Oops. We cleaned and lubricated. We are with Donna on them being messy, just too lazy to change anything.

Nancy

[Brian M. in NY]

Originally Posted by rabbit

That's an elegant method of operation, Tom. Sprezzatura trumps information occasionally. I use the bar only to put the extension foot in firm contact with the ground, usually only one click. Byron's method of firming up the extension feet by taking a turn or two on the tongue jack handle does the same. Ten turns on the handle is enuf to transfer weight from the tires to the stabilizers. Whether frame distortion or breakage is likely at that point or not, I wouldn't do it on principle. They look like jacks, operate like jacks, are sometimes referred to as jacks, and aren't jacks. Not everything that can be done should be!!!

jack

We had these stabilizer jacks on our Little Guy Teardrop. Admittedly, the dry weight was only 1080 Lbs but the recommended method for changing a flat was to lower the tongue jack as far as it would go, lower the stabilizer jacks to the ground and crank the tongue jack back up until the tires came off the ground. Then change tire and reverse the operation. Definitely NOT recommended for long term storage.

[jwcolby54]

I put them down last night.cranked up on the tongue jack and they both locked.

[kdhanso]

Glad you got them to work.

[jwcolby54]

Originally Posted by kdhanso

Glad you got them to work.

I would feel better if I did "get them to work". Unfortunately I didn't do any particular thing.

Maybe it was just dropping them down, then cranking the tongue up.

Maybe it was the dressing up in red shoes, clicking my heels 3 times and whispering "there's no place like home". (I was desperate!!!)

Maybe it was the string of unrepeatable adjectives... (kidding)

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY

We had these stabilizer jacks on our Little Guy Teardrop. Admittedly, the dry weight was only 1080 Lbs but the recommended method for changing a flat was to lower the tongue jack as far as it would go, lower the stabilizer jacks to the ground and crank the tongue jack back up until the tires came off the ground. Then change tire and reverse the operation. Definitely NOT recommended for long term storage.

Using the rear stabilizing jacks or tongue jack to actually jack up the trailer so that the wheels are off the ground is not at all recommend by Scamp. Apparently a good way to bend the trailers frame.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Using the rear stabilizing jacks or tongue jack to actually jack up the trailer so that the wheels are off the ground is not at all recommend by Scamp. Apparently a good way to bend the trailers frame.

As Carol says, don't jack the wheels off the ground using the stabilizers. They just what they say and only what they say "STABILIZERS". I put just enough pressure to reduce the amount of bounce when walking around inside the trailer.

[Steve L.]

Ladder frames are not all that stiff in torsion (twist?). The Casita manual also says don't jack up the frame using these stabilizers but I don't know if that's because of the flimsiness of the stabilizer or the flimsiness of the frame or both. They do say to jack on the frame when changing tires, but that is near the middle of the frame and a c-channel frame is relatively stiffer in that sort of deflection. Emphasis on "relatively".

[kdhanso]

Carol, Interesting you say that about Scamp and jacking up the trailer. It reminded me to share something. Last month I had a talk with a very nice guy from Scamp while they were showing their trailers at the MN State Fair. During our conversation he told me the best way to save wear on the torsion axle is to store the trailer with the rear jacks down and to crank up the front. He said it would add 10 years to the axle life. Now, he didn't say to raise it so the wheels left the ground, just so it took pressure off of the axle. He was the head guy in their welding shop and has worked their for many years. I wish I could remember his name. Frankly, Besides possible frame issues, I wouldn't feel safe working on the trailer or changing a tire with only the rear and front jacks. They'd be too wobbly with the tires off of the ground. Plus I wouldn't trust that the rear jacks would hold.

Ken

[Steve L.]

Taking a load off, so to speak, makes intuitive sense. If I were to go that route for winter storage I'd jack it up at the axle and slip jack stands under the frame.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Steve L.

Taking a load off, so to speak, makes intuitive sense. If I were to go that route for winter storage I'd jack it up at the axle and slip jack stands under the frame.

4 if them, one at each corner.

[kdhanso]

Yeah. Jack stands would also ensure that nothing would move. Especially when considering Norm's feedback about his rear jacks slipping over time,

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by kdhanso

Yeah. Jack stands would also ensure that nothing would move. Especially when considering Norm's feedback about his rear jacks slipping over time,

I don't know about slipping over time. I used mine for over a 1000 nights and have never known them to slip. The mechanism is designed such that the higher the loading the stronger the hold. I suppose that with a minimum loading and a lot of bouncing around inside they could slip, but not likely.

[honda03842]

I've never analyzed the slippage but it's small, maybe caused by the trailer settling. Usually just takes a slight jack up.

We like the rear stabilizers. We have also added a 4th jack at the front door corner. This one is a more familiar screw down jack.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by honda03842

I've never analyzed the slippage but it's small, maybe caused by the trailer settling. Usually just takes a slight jack up.

Norm, could the slippage be due to your using small wooden blocks under the stabilizers? I used wooden blocks but found in wet conditions the jack slid on the blocks or the blocks themselves slid on their own especially if stacked. Now use the plastic interlocking blocks under the jacks to avoid that & it seems to work.

Ken, yes Scamp does in their manual recommend taking the load off the axle if the trailer is not in use for long periods. Suggesting it helps the longevity of the axle. But the same manual also states one should not jack the trailer right off the ground using the rear stablizer and front jack.

[honda03842]

Carol, that may be possible. It's never been much of an issue but I"ll pay attention next time. We leave in a few weeks.

The real advantage of the blocks is I don't have to extend the jacks so much. When I need length I get 4 more inches.