How is this possible? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-24-2016, 04:41 PM   #15
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Post # 3 !!!
Thanks.. the two statements did not have to be related I think..

... anyway, a diode can fix that problem. What problem do you ask? Sounds like the Scamp's electrical system can discharge the break-away switch battery, rendering it useless when it is most needed.
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:43 PM   #16
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Hay Gordon, Are those people that were cooked by the radio waves still alive??

Well my mentor is not.. but if he was he would be about 112.
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:14 PM   #17
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Thanks.. the two statements did not have to be related I think..

... anyway, a diode can fix that problem. What problem do you ask? Sounds like the Scamp's electrical system can discharge the break-away switch battery, rendering it useless when it is most needed.
Please describe when it would be most needed... Inspection maybe??
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:43 PM   #18
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Please describe when it would be most needed... Inspection maybe??
Well I was thinking more like when you are going 70 MPH downhill (bad idea, I know) and the trailer becomes unhitched and crosses the centerline, heading straight toward a church bus full of children and nuns headed the opposite direction, also at 70 MPH.

The inspection, I think, we could survive.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:08 AM   #19
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Gordon, Here in Virginia the buss would be Blue and it would be Baptist. I don't think the Catholics use school busses.
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:52 AM   #20
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I got a similar situation this spring.

The trailer was parked in the yard, no external electrical connection and a parking light was on the trailer.

In the connector that goes to the car, I found a wire out of his position, and touched the battery wire from the trailer.
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Old 07-25-2016, 11:47 AM   #21
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Well I was thinking more like when you are going 70 MPH downhill (bad idea, I know) and the trailer becomes unhitched and crosses the centerline, heading straight toward a church bus full of children and nuns headed the opposite direction, also at 70 MPH.

The inspection, I think, we could survive.
So... never...right?


This does bring up something related,which IS important...
If you have a single safety chain (with two hooks) attached in the middle to the coupler with a single 1/4" or 5/16" bolt then FIX IT!

Use two separate chains (or cables) of adequate size, each attached with its own bolt to the frame and not the coupler. Change each hook to a fastener with a closure.
Check your draw bar to be sure that the ball is of the right size and has a shank of adequate size (I would not use a 5/8" shank to pull a travel trailer.)
Get a good locking pin for the drawbar.

Then if it is required or if you feel the need, add a breakaway switch with a cable routed in such a way as to avoid accidental activation by road debris.

Figure the odds of a breakaway, add the odds of a loose trailer staying upright or stopping straight. add once again the odds of the breakaway happening down a hill on a curve careening the trailer into the path of an oncoming church bus.
Probably a safer option to forgo the breakaway switch in favor of more sensible driving habits! Of course you could use both!

And don't forget one of these...
SURPRISE! That 90 decibel alarm suddenly going off right next to your ear should help you maintain control, right?


NOD-Stopper:
The NOD-Stopper is a sleep warning device that you wear over your ear. NOD-Stopper helps prevent automobile accidents caused by falling asleep behind the wheel. This device is lightweight, it's comfortable and you can wear it even while wearing glasses
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:08 PM   #22
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I couldn't hear my wife screaming about what was happening because there was this loud noise going off in my ear.
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:09 PM   #23
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when in BC....

I got waved over for a vehicle safety inspection in BC and the ONLY thing they checked was the breakaway switch operation...YMMV

(was asked to remove the breakaway tab from the switch, get in my truck and slowly drive away...breaks locked up after a few feet...that was it....and I don't have a brake controller!)
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:43 PM   #24
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What I'm unclear about is why there are two batteries, obviously in parallel. A battery for the brakes is only necessary if there is no trailer battery. I doubt that's something Scamp would do. Some creative electrics from a previous owner perhaps.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:20 PM   #25
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What I'm unclear about is why there are two batteries, obviously in parallel. A battery for the brakes is only necessary if there is no trailer battery. I doubt that's something Scamp would do. Some creative electrics from a previous owner perhaps.
I was thinking the same thing. It looks to me it one of those salesman selling more than needed.

Now what to do about? Nothing.
You'll probably want to remove the small extra battery in about 10 years. The one etrailer is selling has a 5 amphour battery. So enjoy the extra 2.5 amp hours of usable energy. After about 10 years or when your house battery will NOT charge to full capacity take out the brakeaway battery and discard.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:26 PM   #26
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When installed correctly it will charge off the camper battery, converter or tow vehicle power wire and will not apply power only to the brakes when the emergency switch is activated. It should have indicator lights on it.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:30 PM   #27
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When installed correctly it will charge off the camper battery, converter or tow vehicle power wire and will not apply power only to the brakes when the emergency switch is activated. It should have indicator lights on it.

Well now I am confused as heck.. unless the word in bold was unintended.

I would guess that a separate break-away switch battery would be to insure the brakes still work if the house battery is not connected, run down too far, etc. But if the break-away battery is in parallel with the house battery and can be discharged though the trailers 12 volt system them that benefit does not exist.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:45 PM   #28
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Check out the schematic
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailer...tallation.aspx
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