how much noise from hitch when you hit bumps? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-12-2006, 06:23 PM   #15
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Not if it swiveled, which would be simple enough to do.
I believe that it's required that the coupling move in 3 axis. Up and down, left and right, clockwise and counterclockwise. That's not saying that some other method wouldn't work, but it would probably be more trouble some than a ball type.

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Old 11-12-2006, 06:38 PM   #16
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Swivel Hitches do just that, but as you say, it would take some serious consideration to see if they were safety issues on larger trailers

(And compared to most motorcycle trailers, ours are large ones )

My first trailer had a swivel coupler on it that had to be changed to accomidate my traditional ball. The original owner towed it with his Goldwing and it had a swivel/Pin arrangement.

I didn't pay a TON of attention to it as I knew he was changing it out for my car. He was a sweet old guy.

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Old 11-12-2006, 08:07 PM   #17
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Very interesting. I never thought about motorcycle hitches. As I understand it they add a swivel behind the standard ball coupler to allow for the greater rotational needs of a motorcycle.
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:00 PM   #18
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That's why, after I get hooked up and everything LOOKs like it should with the coupler, I use the tongue jack to see if the coupler is going to popoff the ball by jacking the trailer tongue up. When the weight starts coming off the back of the tug and it starts to rise....I know I did everything properly and am good to go. Put the tongue jack up and I'm on my way
I do this also... It has the additional benefit of making the Weight Distribution Hitch spring arms VERY easy to connect while the hitched trailer tongue and tow vehicle bumper are raised by the tongue jack.
Frederick - The Scaleman
1978 Fiber Stream 16 named "Eggstasy" & 1971 Compact Jr. named "Boomerang"
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Old 11-12-2006, 10:03 PM   #19
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wow, thanks for all the replies, ill check things out next weekend.
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Old 11-13-2006, 01:13 PM   #20
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I have seen couplers like the Bulldog series before, but was not aware of the supplier or any construction details (other than the obvious cast or forged socket). Thanks for the link, Pete.

It's too bad that neither the Bulldog site, nor the (outdated) Cequent catalog which it offers, shows any detail of the latch mechanism.

I notice that Bulldog is now - like Reese, Draw-Tite, Tekonsha, and Bargman - one of the Cequent companies. Since the line appears to be targeted at rough-service applications, it is not surprising to me that they do not have the little 1-7/8" size. I see that their lightest-duty model is a Class 3 (5,000 lb trailer weight) unit. I think my original and current 2" coupler, which is rated for 5,000 lb of trailer and 700 lb of tongue weight, is strong enough for me; it also seems to latch quite positively, and it is really easy to see that it is latched.
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:39 PM   #21
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I'd double check to make sure ball and coupler are sized the same. If the ball is 1 7/8" and the coupler requires 2" there will be clanking and banging.
Here's a little tutotorial about hitch balls.
If you have a wrench to remove the ball, the ball can be placed in a vice just snug enough to work it out and then measure the opening. You'll then know which size you possess. Some balls also have the size stamped on a flat spot on the top. Another noise producer may be a "stinger" with a hole larger than the bolt portion of the ball which can allow the ball to shift back and forth. Due to this problem, it's wise to take both stinger and ball if you've discovered the need for a replacement ball.
Many people are also unaware that different height balls are available to correct variations in level height between tug and towed vehicle. Before purchasing a new ball, check the height of coupler on the trailer after it has been leveled and ball height on the tug when it is also sitting level. Corrections up to about 1" may be made with a different height replacement ball.
In review, hitch balls come in different diameters (to fit the hitch on the trailer), bolt diameters (to fit the hole in the bumper or "stinger"), bolt lengths (to fit different bumper or "stinger" thicknesses), and heights. All 4 need to be correct.
Hopefully these tips will help someone correct or avoid related problems.
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