How quiet is the Dometic RM2193 Compact Refrigerator - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-24-2008, 08:33 PM   #21
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And what would make a 12v compressor refrigerator smelly? I certainly don't want noisy and smelly would be even worse. Though the 1.8 amp an hour could be doable with a good solar system.
You'd need a pair of deep cycle batteries and a 75-100 watt solar panel array with clear shot at the sky to power a 12v, 1.5 amp appliance 7x24.

(18 watts usage x 24 hours) / (6 hours productive sunlight) = 72 watts panel required

--Peter
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:12 PM   #22
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And what would make a 12v compressor refrigerator smelly? I certainly don't want noisy and smelly would be even worse.
What gives you the idea that it would be smelly?

When Peter referred to noise and smell he was talking about a generator (if you used one, theoretically, to power an electric refrigerator). Granted, a compressor electric refrigerator would make some noise, but not a lot.

Venting on all of the refrigerators is for heat, mainly, not odors.

R.
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Old 10-25-2008, 11:12 AM   #23
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What gives you the idea that it would be smelly?

When Peter referred to noise and smell he was talking about a generator (if you used one, theoretically, to power an electric refrigerator). Granted, a compressor electric refrigerator would make some noise, but not a lot.

Venting on all of the refrigerators is for heat, mainly, not odors.

R.
Ahh, thanks for clearing that up for me, I didn't realize he was talking about the generator. I also appreciate the break down of what would be needed as a solar array and battery power to add the refrigerator. It does appeal to me to be able to be able to have a fossil free refrigerator when boondocking.

Can anyone share with me the model and type of the refrigerator they are using and how noisy it is and if they noise is continuous or intermittent with the cycling of the refrigerator.

Thanks so much!

Warmly,

Laurie
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:11 PM   #24
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Ahh, thanks for clearing that up for me, I didn't realize he was talking about the generator. I also appreciate the break down of what would be needed as a solar array and battery power to add the refrigerator. It does appeal to me to be able to be able to have a fossil free refrigerator when boondocking.

Can anyone share with me the model and type of the refrigerator they are using and how noisy it is and if they noise is continuous or intermittent with the cycling of the refrigerator.

Thanks so much!

Warmly,

Laurie
Just keep in mind that my calculation for solar panels only took the one 1.5 amp/hour refrigerator into account and requires, and nothing else. Most people also want to run their lights and heater, and for that you'd need more solar panels. Also remember that the solar panels be parked in a location that's open to the sunny sky. A well-treed park would present problems for running on solar. Camping during the fall or winter seasons would create a problem, too.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:42 PM   #25
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unscientific general answer:

I have the next model up (With a small freezer)

No noise at all on gas or DC, and nothing noticeable on AC. My own breathing is louder.
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:46 PM   #26
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I am using a Dometic RM 2451...I use it in the electric mode when traveling via an Inverter if I am on the move more than 5 hours, its silent and frugal on propane when camping, the propane which I have on board for the stoves and furnace seemed the logical choice for me.
When you install any of these boxes or the ice only ice boxes I suggest to line the cabinet it will slip into with a foil backed reflective insulation...it can make a huge difference in refrigerator cycle times (solar) or ice survival and the temp of the contents in the box will benefit...there is two kinds of heat basically in this type of mechanical refrigeration...sensible and insensible heats...the first is managed by a mechanical/chemical process the second must be best handled by reflecting it mostly.

Here is a way of understanding it...your driving on a hot day, the windows are up and the A/C is blasting...the car is actually cold but as your car changes orientation to the sun your arm has sunlight hit it and it becomes hot...now the air in the cabin is still cold...but the arm is still hot?...the heat striking your arm is infrared...as this insensible heat enters the cabin it will not raise the temp of the air but when it strikes a solid target like your arm that target goes up in temp and then the target can raise the temp of the air contacting it so the cabin gets hot.

For this reason fancy tinted windows really work, the tint reflects infrared (insensible heat) away from the cabin before it can enter. Fiberglass trailers are plastic, the outer colored shell (gel coat) is 20 to 50 mils thick on average, about as thick as a garbage bags plastic...the rest of the skin is spun glass and semi clear resin, (plastic) infrared penetrates this type of structure really well...in the case of the ice box it will come through and penetrate an unreflective ice box and warm the food quickly most ice boxes are white styrofoam and plastic liners...no foils are used...refrigerated boxes generally come with the outer reflectex card (foil) board and is already installed at the factory...the ice boxes do not give such considerations...you must add it if wise...your ice will last days longer in some sunny climates. If you do go with the solar concept the heat load can be reduced along with cycle times per hour needed (ergo demand) on the battery power required per solar day, at least it will be diminished R-Max board can super insulate a cold box and in a solar design I would make that a prime consideration.

Harry
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