How to attach wood to inside Scamp wall - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:53 AM   #1
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Name: Tonnie
Trailer: Scamp
Florida
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How to attach wood to inside Scamp wall

Hi Everyone!

I want to attach 2 pieces of wood 1" X 1/2" X 24" or so to the inside of the Scamp at each side of the back window. I want to attach a pair of shutters as a window covering.

I want it to be removable later if someone wants. It will go over the elephant hide.

Can anyone suggest the best fastener to use? Since I will be attaching hinges for the shutters on the inside, the fastener needs to sit flush on the wood.

Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:06 AM   #2
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Since you want the wood to be over the elephant hide, I don't think you have a choice but to use through the hull fasteners. Stainless steel screws (round head, phillips) from the outside, through the wood, with washers (flat and lock) and acorn nuts on the inside. To seal, put a ring of butyl tape around the base of the screws on the outside. If you remove the wood later, you will have to leave the screws to fill the holes.

The acorn nuts will prevent snagging on the curtains........and yourself.

This is the way cabinets are attached to my Little Joe. Very effective.
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:28 AM   #3
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Name: Tonnie
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Clif,

I want to mount wood shutters and the acorn nuts would stick out too far on the inside. I suppose if that's my best option, I could glue additional small blocks to the wood strip just where the hinges will attach.

Where can I find butyl tape? Are the screws and acorn nuts available at someplace like Lowe's or Home Depot? I'm working with a really steep learning curve here!

Thanks for your suggestion...
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:50 AM   #4
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You can use neoprene or vitron flat washers to seal the entry holes for mechanical fasteners . They give a good seal , are inexpensive , are easy to use and give a neater appearance than caulk or tape .
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:56 AM   #5
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If you want to use through the hull fasteners, you can use "drywall" type screws (only stainless) with snap caps on the outside and the screws screwed into the wood, leaving the wood smooth on the inside. the snap caps will give it a factory look on the outside and the wood look on the inside securely fastened.
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:58 AM   #6
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I'd attached using the clamp ring on the window. The wood could extend as far as needed on both sides of the window, as long as you take the curve of the trailer into consideration.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:06 AM   #7
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I'm assuming that the 1/2 inch dimension is the thickness. You could just go with a nominal 1 inch thick piece, counter sink for the flat washer and use a nylon filled lock nut without the lock washer, which would give you a flush mount.

Better yet, try putting some 1/4 inch threaded inserts into the back of the wood, and screw directly into the wood from the outside. You would have to measure very carefully, but this would make the attachment invisible.

In either case, if you removed the shutters later, you would have to use shorter screws and acorn nuts to seal the holes.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:34 AM   #8
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"Where can I find butyl tape?"
You can find a lot of things from VTS, they are good.
Vintage Trailer Supply - parts and supplies for vintage travel trailers and campers!
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:08 AM   #9
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Not sure what kinda windows you have, but have you considered mounting the shutters to the framing of the window and SKIP the hull?

If I was going wood, here's how I would do it- cut through the elephant hide and glue/epoxy/fiberglass the wood to the interior of the hull. I would NEVER go through the hull for fasteners just for an interior aesthetic mod!! Never!

That's just my $.02 worth..
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:26 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Not sure what kinda windows you have, but have you considered mounting the shutters to the framing of the window and SKIP the hull?

If I was going wood, here's how I would do it- cut through the elephant hide and glue/epoxy/fiberglass the wood to the interior of the hull. I would NEVER go through the hull for fasteners just for an interior aesthetic mod!! Never!

That's just my $.02 worth..
I took this method.
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Old 01-19-2017, 01:40 PM   #11
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Cut a piece of wood with the curve matching the the inside shell to go all the way across the back window. Where Scamp used rivets to hold the curtain rod you can remove those rivets and use the same holes to screw into your cross piece of wood. That's your top mount for your shutters. You could use a wide piece of wood and make this a dual purpose shelf over the window.

Now below the window there is a block of wood inside the trailer bonded to the outside shell that supports the outside spare tire and the inside table mounts. You can cut some wood like you did for the top and make some brackets to mount into that piece of wood for the lower table mount for your lower shutter support. If you care about weight at the back of your trailer ( You should care about adding weight to the back of your trailer) you can cut these pieces of wood from dried redwood. Redwood is much lighter and holds screws pretty well. If done properly and carefully you will be adding no extra through holes in the shell.

Just make sure when your done nothing is wiggly before you go towing down the road. If something is loose and wiggly while the earthquake force's driving down the road will allow you hard work to self destruct beating up everything inside and possibly even breaking the window. Its one thing getting your project where you want it, its a whole other ball game keeping it there.
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:26 PM   #12
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I like magnets...

You could probably affix some discrete magnets to the inner wall strong enough to hold up that size of wood with magnets also atached.
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:38 PM   #13
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Butyl tape is available at large hardware stores everywhere. It can come in white, gray, or black.


It's not the cheapest stuff out there, but you get a LOOOOOONG roll for your money. And it's very effective.
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Old 01-19-2017, 03:44 PM   #14
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Name: Tonnie
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Wink

Thanks to all of you!

Apparently there are several ways to achieve this.

I appreciate all the advice and will go from there...
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Old 01-19-2017, 03:50 PM   #15
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Steve, that is great information to have. I had no idea there is already a wood reinforcement in the table/spare tire area. and using the holes that are already there for the curtain rod is a great suggestion as well. I hope this will be workable with the size of the shutters. I'll pay special attention to securing the shutters when traveling so they don't start flinging themselves around!
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Old 01-19-2017, 04:02 PM   #16
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Name: JD
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Florida
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You can use countersunk wood screws from the outside into the wood in inside and it will not leak.
What I did was use washers and a little gorilla glue in the hole before running it uo and that will insure it won't leak
You could also use a button or pan head screw with a little gorilla glue under it and wi wont leak.
The elephant hide will seal along with the glue and t will not leak.
If you want to go overboard a little polyurethane sealant/adhesive under the wood will hold it and seal as well.
I have seen all kinds of rivets etc loose and leak, but the regular wood screws into the wood cabinets on the top sides of the trailer are tight and I haven't seen one leak.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:40 AM   #17
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Thanks JD...
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