how to change the bolts holding a 13'boler to the frame - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-16-2018, 01:35 PM   #1
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Name: Chantal
Trailer: Boler 1975
Ontario
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how to change the bolts holding a 13'boler to the frame

We just bought out 1975 13' boler this summer and are in the process of renovating. This being our fist attempt at renovating anything, we would need advise on how to change out the original screws/bolts that are holding the shell to the frame. Anyone out there that has come across this?
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Old 07-16-2018, 01:41 PM   #2
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Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
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body to frame bolts

Chantal, welcome to the forum!

My 1974 Boler 13 (since sold) has:

- Four 1/4" bolts with fender washers (on the floor), lock washers (below) and nuts. These four bolts go through the FG floor into flanges that are welded to the rectangular tubing frame. Two of these fasteners are under the front bench. The other two are under the two rear benches.

- Approx. fourteen #10 x 1 1/2" sheet metal screws with fender washers (on the floor) go through the FG floor into the rectangular tubing frame.

All of the above appeared to be original. I replaced all of the fasteners. (Edit: The sheet metal screws were loose. I increased sheet metal screw size to #12 (hex head self drilling screws).)

Good luck,
John
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:21 PM   #3
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Name: Shari
Trailer: Boler 13 77
Florida
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I also had a lot of screws and bolts to remove. Many were so badly rusted that getting them out was a chore. 3 in 1 oil and Blaster helped loosen some. Occasionally a head broke off which meant digging for the remaining screw portion and using vice grips to unscrew. Needless to say, it was not a quick and simple job. I advise using a rust resistant screw which is compatible with steel in frame for replacement.
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:41 PM   #4
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Name: Al
Trailer: 1969 Boler 13'
Alberta
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As a suggestion...the nuts will likely be rusted on fairly solidly. Ours sure were lol.

Look into getting a nut splitter from your favorite "tool obtaining emporium"...shear the nuts off and pop the bolts out...easy.

The screws are going to be a pain in the butt.

Al
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Old 07-17-2018, 01:20 AM   #5
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
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I could not fit a nut splitter onto the bolts in my trailer so had to come up with plans B, C, D.

I don't have a Boler but recently took out rusted bolts in my trailer. It ended up being a real mixed bag of techniques to get them out. Some were a lot more rusty than others. The first thing to do is put some penetrating oil on them and let them site for a few days adding a little more several times during the day. The next thing to do is use an impact driver to try to take the nuts off. That will so to speak give you the most "bang" for your buck. My rechargeable Makita impact driver was able to remove about a third of them. Then using a pin punch from below drive the shaft of the bolt upwards until you can grab onto it with vise grip pliers.

When that technique failed the next resort was to put a metal cutting blade into a Multi-tool. The blade we used was a DEWALT Dwa4209 Oscillating Titanium Metal Blade. It was held close against the iron under the trailer to essentially slice off the nut and bolt shaft. That got quite a few more bolts removed but let a couple of stubborn ones.

So the last method was to drill the head of the bolt off and use a pin punch to drive the bolt from inside the trailer on out to the bottom. I had mostly carriage bolts so that took a lot of drilling to get the heads off.

Plan E would have been to use an angle grinder to cut the bolts off.

Rusty screws are another set of issues. Sometimes the slots on the top work, often they don't. In that case you can try vise grips, if that fails then drill them out.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:33 AM   #6
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
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removing Boler 13 body to frame bolts and screws

Removing the frame bolts, I got a very strong grip on the head with vise grips, then turned off the nut below. I think all of them broke off, then I pulled out the remains from above.

Removing the screws was actually really quick. The very rusty ones were also very loose (remember they are screwed into the frame). Just pull while turning the head with vise grips. The screws that were still in tight simply unscrewed out. As I mentioned in above post, since the rusty screws were loose, I replaced all screws with #12's. My above post indicates the screw and bolt diameter and length.

Replacing the bolts on the Trillium has proven to be more difficult. Have only replaced 5 of the 8 bolts to date. Will probably use an angle grinder to get the last 3.
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:41 PM   #7
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Trailer: 13' 1973 Boler - tow/2017 Colorado Crew-Cab
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Our '73 Boler had only the typical 14 'screw type fasteners' holding the shell to the frame; and found that half of them had previously 'rusted' off or were significantly loose; when I removed the shell from the frame. I had a 3 in. piece of angle iron welded to the frame near each of the four extreme shell/frame contact corners, and had 3/8 in. holes drilled through the angle-iron pieces. I now have replaced each of the 14 screws, and then also added 3/8 in. stainless bolts with fender washers through the new 'angle-iron' mounts and the shell. I believe the shell is now secure, and well supported, for a further 45 years; although I do intend to replace the fender washers with larger steel plates on the interior shell-surface.
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Old 07-17-2018, 03:14 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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Any sort of hole in a frame is not a good idea, and the boler frame is such thin metal screws don't hold very well
I suggest you use at least 4 square U-Bolts,2"x5"x 5/16" available at most home improvement stores. Locate one in each corner straddling the frame from underneath and bolted under the storage areas inside. I recommend using nylock nuts and cut off the excess thread once tightened.
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Old 07-19-2018, 12:38 PM   #9
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Name: dust in
Trailer: Boler Trailer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chantal View Post
We just bought out 1975 13' boler this summer and are in the process of renovating. This being our fist attempt at renovating anything, we would need advise on how to change out the original screws/bolts that are holding the shell to the frame. Anyone out there that has come across this?
The best method I have come up with on my 73 Boler....after I put a new aluminum frame under (well worth the cost) I attached the body to frame using U bolts capturing the frame to the body...4 in the back salon area and two in front ...rock solid.
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